trwebb26

It may be more "refined" - but it does cost ~$1100 USD versus ~$350 for a megasquirt with the same basic functionality. I can think of a LOT of things to do with the $750 savings (you could get a laptop and a WB02 and still have money to spare!). In addition - the megasquirt install on a 280zxT is VERY well documented here on hybridZ. I speak from experience when I say there is no problem that can't be solved by the hybridz memebers when it comes to the megasquirt install. There are MANY people that have megasquirt and only a handfull or two that have purchased the haltech for their Z for the exact reasons I'm stating.

If you are considering spending the huge $$$ for a Haltech - spring for the top of the line - pre-assembled MS1 - v3.0 unit (MS&SE) with a relay board and wire loom from RS-Autosport (the wire loom is well worth the cash!). Make sure you tell Steve what distributor you are going to use (high to low / low to high)... If you are running MS&SE - there are two different ways to wire up the tach input. Trust me - I know all about this topic!

follow mom'sz advice. I've broken so many ez-outs off in my Z... They'll never touch it again!

Man... I don't think an AC evaporator would cool the air fast enough to be all that useful, buy I'm no HVAC guy. The most common setup I've seen is a nitrous spray bar across the intercooler. This would give you the cool charge when you needed it - foot to the floor under full boost: http://www.holley.com/types/Intercooler_Spray_Bar_Kits.asp How does this reduce the intake piping? I would think there would be a pretty nice size pressure drop through something like you are talking about too. I probably just haven't thought through it enough.

Update... I took the megasquirt apart and sure enough - the fan circuit was wired wrong. I changed 2 wires and now the fan works great! I drove the car last night with NO RESETS and no real problems. I have the fuel pump relay cut out when there is <10PSI of oil pressure. I'm only running 10W-30 oil (turbo oil pump) and when the oil gets hot the pressure will dip below the 10PSI mark. I bought some 20W-50 oil and a new filter. That ought to do the trick. I've got a pretty terrible tune in the car right now and it is running pretty rough. I'm excited to tie up some loose ends (wire electric speedo, set the fuel level guage, fix 2 broken LEDS in my custom fiberglass dash) and start tuning. I'm pretty excited. Thanks again everybody.

GREAT NEWS!!! I can't believe it, but BRAAP was 100% correct!!! I got my Magnecor wires today. I swapped out my Taylor wires (which were total POS) and put in a fresh set of plugs and whala!!! No more resets! I mean 100% gone! Thanks BRAAP!!!! I even managed to hook up the MSD and it works great! My new 1-wire alternator is working great, too! The timing is perfect and the car can now idle in my garage with no problem. BIG thanks to Steve @ RS-Autosport for helping me with my Megasquirt. The problem ended up being a combination of 2 major things: 1) Taylor wires suck! Please follow BRAAP's advice and buy a set of Magnecor wires and fresh resistor plugs. 2) The input from my distributor was wired incorrectly from the very beginning (a year ago) as I got it from RS-Autosport. It was wired for a low to high dizzy and should have been wired for a high to low (thanks for the clarification, Moby!). That explains why my trigger numbers were so low (~55 degrees)... I was triggering off of the wrong side of the square wave. As the square wave width changed with increasing RPM - my timing would change the difference in width of the square wave - and eventually skip to the next optical trigger point at a high enough RPM. It makes perfect sense. All of that and I haven't driven it, yet. While Steve had it at RS-Autosport - he rewired my fan control signal (the only thing that acutally worked on my megasquirt before I sent it to him)... now my electric fan won't turn off. So there is some kind of problem with the fan circuit that he re-did. I'll be opening up the megasquirt tomorrow to take a look at how he wired it up and hopefully correct the problem. I also have a lot of work to do to put my car back together anyways. I had just about every loom of wire undone trying to troubleshoot the megasquirt. It'll take me a few hours to put it back together so I can drive it. FINALLY - THERE IS SOME HOPE!!! Thanks to everybody here on hybridz for the support! When I finally get to drive my car without it dying on the side of the road (hasn't happend in the 14 months I've owned the car) - I will be making my first donation to the hybridz website. Thanks again everybody!

I don't understand your question.

Nagasaki motors told me that they would switch out for an RB25 tranny at no extra cost... so it does include a tranny. I'm just of the opinion that maybe it isn't the greatest deal. Sorry if I seemed negative.

When I posted this - the thread was only 4 down from the top of the list... Seriously - did you even look? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116220

This is how I see it. $3000 for a motor AND trans (http://www.nagasakijdmmotors.com/02nissan/SKYLINE%20GTR%20R32-33.html) $390 for an HKS 40mm Wastegate (buy anywhere) $275 for an Gredd E-manage - a WAY better unit that the old school HKS VPC. Buy it here (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GREDDY-E-MANAGE-EMANAGE-ENGINE-CONTROL-UNIT-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6763QQihZ008QQitemZ180020837741QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V) - Explanation here (http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/801) Now that adds up to $3665 and leaves just the turbo. According to the HKS website (http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=824)... that turbo is supposed to sell for $2500... but you can get a comparable GARRET TE67 turbo for only $900 (http://www.turboelements.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=7) - which brings us just a tick over the $4500 that you were asking for - AND - I get a tranny with it. I'm sure that you'll tell me that the HKS turbo is WAY better than the GARRET one... but the components are nearly identical and I consider GARRET to be a superior product. PLUS - who is going to want exactly what you have for sale when they can buy brand new parts for a similar price? Just my $0.02.

I'm thinking you are a tad high on your price if the package doesn't come with an RB25 RWD tranny.

tranny?

After reading back through the posts... I just ordered a set of Magnecor wires, too. We'll see. Any other advice?

Well... I got my Megasquirt back from Steve. As it turned out - it wasn't wired correctly for the 280ZX turbo dizzy... go figure. I stuck it back in the car and now I'm getting CRAZY resets. If you turn the car over it resets. The troubleshooting I've done so far is: 1) Unplugged the MSD so there is no spark at all... crank it over - no resets. 2) Take the MSD completely out of the picture and wire directly up to the coil... crank it over - LOTS of resets again. So - it is definately ignition related - noise from the spark plug wires. It is strange because I've never had resets like this before. I'm running resistor plugs. My guess is that the spark plugs have too much resistance in them now (too much troubleshooting the engine) and the wires are finding another place for all of that energy to go besides the spark plug. I'm going to try picking up a fresh set of plugs tomorrow and see what that does. I've already fitted a "noise filter" on the input to the megasquirt - no help. I guess if that doesn't work then better plug wires are next (like BRAAP has suggested). Does anybody else have any suggestions besides throwing the megasquirt against the wall and swapping in an RB motor?

I've been talking to Steve at RS-Autosport to get my megasquirt repaired (see http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115390). He has some questions: The email from Steve: "On your distributor. According to the link you sent me to the msextra.com manual we need to know if your distributor is a "Hi to Lo" or "Lo to Hi" setup and does your optical sensor run off of 12v or 5v." Please help me get Steve the correct answers.

Well... I sent off my Megasquirt to RS Autosport to be inspected this week. Hopefully Steve will tell me that my board is screwed early next week. It would be the happiest $300 I've ever spent if he told me I had to get a new one. I'm just WAITING for SOMETHING to go right. In the meantime... I've been looking at how to mount an edis wheel to a crank pulley. It seems like I've only got 2 options: 1) Machine down a stock 2-groove 280z pulley and press/bolt on a ford edis wheel. 2) Buy a pre-made one from top end performance: http://www.racetep.com/nissan.html I'm a tad concerned about this one because there is no "damper" to the dapmer. It looks like just a solid pulley. That is bad... right? Are there any other options that I'm missing?

It seems that most people run camber plates, but I've also read that control arms do the same thing, are easier to install, are cheaper, and offer more adjustment. I'm completely confused. Can somebody please straighten me out .

For some reason the movie "Oceans 11" keeps sticking in my head as I watch this thread.

I'm running brand new resistor plugs and brand new Taylor "sprio" pro wires. I really feel that a local fix isn't going to solve my problems any more. I've had WAY too many issues come up. I think I'll send my M/S in to be looked at - and if it comes back that there is nothing wrong - I'll wire up for EDIS. Anybody else have a suggestion?

Ok... here goes. I bought a megasquirt unit preassembled last year. Since then I've installed it in the car. Here is the list of trouble I've had so far: 1) What I attributed to an overheating VB coil driver. The car would die after a few minutes of driving. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113669 2) Problems with the timing fluctuating: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111715 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111657 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113799 3) Problems with resets: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111972 4) M/S misbehaving: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111715 5) Noise from the alternator causing something to crap out: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114077 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115313 6) My most recent problem - serious RESETS when cranking... basically I cant even start the car to troubleshoot it anymore. Now... I'm a pretty patient guy. I've been working my megasquirt issues the best I can for quite some time (about a year) and haven't really gotten to drive my car in over a year. I'm out of ideas. The logical ideas I've come up with: 1) Send the megasquirt back to be looked at 2) Chuck it and go with SDS 3) Ditch the dizzy and rewire for EDIS (where I may have better luck - reducing a couple of the problems I've had ie timing/noise/resets/MSD. My real problem is that I see all of these guys that have half the skills I do - and tottally half ass everything on their car - and they run great! I spend all the extra time AND money I need to make sure it is done correctly and my car still doesn't run. I guess I'm just frusterated and I need to try a different route. Any sugguestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

I've been fighting my car for a couple of months now. My latest problem is that my car won't run if the alternator wire is hooked up. I'm running the GM 1 wire alternator and if you disconnect the wire - it runs fine. With the alternator hooked up - the car can idle - but won't rev up due to dropped timing events. A little more about my setup: 78' 280z megasquirt v3.0 running ms&se 280zx turbo dizzy gm 1 wire alternator msd 6a running to msd blaster 2 coil to taylor "spiro-pro" wires The investigation I've done so far has been with an oscilliscope. It seems the signal from the megasquirt to the MSD box is good - but if the alternator wire is hooked up - the signal leaving the msd box is junk. To remedy the problem - I tried installing MSD p/n 8830 - an inline capacitor that is supposed to shield any RF noise from the MSD unit. It didn't do anything. Please help me troubleshoot this thing. I'm desperate.

I tapped out the thermostat housing, too. It is a 3/8" NPT. Ace is the only place I could find that carried the tap. Beware because tapping tappered threads into aluminum is really difficult. I cracked a thermostat housing the first time I tried it and had to buy a new one. Take your time.

Are you sure it is the tach signal? What symptoms are you having that make you believe that the tach signal is faulty?

I just did a GM 1-wire install this weekend. The writeup was very helpful... but the bolt you should use is an M10 X 75mm long (not 100mm like the post says).

I FINALLY got it figured out!!! I got the timing to act squirly - then uplugged the alternator. The problem went away! Time to clean up the alternator signal / or switch to a GM 1-wire!