[Exhaust Heat Issues]

Stainless steel holds the heat for a very long time, ceramic/jet hot coatings are the way to go. Ive used both & the ceramic coated exhaust will disapate heat 5 times faster than stainless. I can actually touch my headers after cooling for 1 to 2 minutes, the stainless hookers would stay hot for 4 to 5 times that of the coated. Underhood temps are greatly reduced. Finish Line Coatings in Milwaukie Oregon coated both my headers for $100, huge difference! Summit also sells their own house brand block huggers that are ceramic coated for $279.00

[jtr headers]

Heddman makes a set of "tight tube" block hugger headers, much more clearance all around vs the stainless steel block huggers I bought from Hooker, much better fitment. The Hookers were fairly close to the steering shaft, not any longer.

[water/coolant ratio in Aluminum radiator]

Tap water depending on where you live has it's own bag of chemicals to add to your cooling system. Anti-freeze/coolant has many properties that water does'nt. It helps prevent premature corrossion & also has a higher boiling point than water. I have always run a 50/50 combo& have never encountered a coolant related issue. Red Line & others offer a line of additives that make the water "wetter" and claim to be able to reduce coolant/water temps down by as much as 20 degrees. Im not a big snake oil kinda guy but a lot of gearheads use such a product. I plan on putting some in my new build, what the heck!

[Can a rear spoiler reduce exhaust fumes?]

Lots of good info on this thread, I also replaced the seals on my tailight assemblies, the drivers side was jeapordized & definetly allowing fumes to enter. There appears to be several areas of concern back there.....thanks to all for the great info. It's all part of the master plan!

[Clutch master cylinder]

I have the same flywheel/clutch combo with the external Wilwood pull-type slave. I am using a 7/8ths master and the clutch pedal takes a lot of effort. I don't mind on track, but manuvering in the parking/garage lot is hard on the left leg.

I spoke with tech at Mcleod, they said 7/8" bore was recomended for high performance use, the 5/8" bore is acceptable & with the longer throw it will have a softer feel. I have a feeling I'll be torturing ol' projekt-z a little bit so I opted for the Tilton 7/8".....i still have good knees!

[Lets see your V8 in your Z.]

Very sano, I likey!

[1973 240z front bumper]

HI, Don't mean to steer to far away from the stock bumper talk but I'm curious what you guys think of the aftermarket bumper/airdam? cast in one piece either fiberglass or plastic and who makes a good part. Prefere no bondo work.

thanks Dan

Dan, Motorsports Auto has a couple fiberglass models, Ive seen Steve & the guys at Z-Therapy use the "type 3" fiberglass bumper/airdam on both their race cars & personal cars & they fit/look great.

[1973 240z front bumper]

WWW.ZCCJDM.COM Has the Brackets to mount early 240z bumpers to a 260/280. They are slotted for adjustability to insure a nice tight fit, check out his photos. Very reasonably priced & well worth the time & aggrivation it will save you. Good luck & keep us posted!

[Clutch master cylinder]

Get a Tilton 7/8bore master.

The only reason I considered the stock is that I received a brand new stock master cylinder with the car when purchased. Dont want to cut myself short so I took your advice I ordered one through Summit this morning $85.00+ shipping, not bad!

[Clutch master cylinder]

I am setting up a 1977 280 z for a SBC and WC T5 GM manual trans. I purchased a Mcloed 1400 series hydraulic throwout bearing assembly,lightened GM performance flywheel & zoom performance clutch. Will the stock Datsun 5/8" master cylinder work or should I consider an upgrade?