ryanfudger
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Posts posted by ryanfudger
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Timing issues or fouled plugs, generally. Check the plugs first.
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Figured I'd post a couple of iphone photos of my Z. Nothing crazy: 355sbc, lack of interior, buckets, basic suspension, etc. Needs paint and about 1,000 other things.
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I guess LCA's, too.
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Eccentric bushings are the best option, then? I'm assuming biscuit-style camber plates will not work with megans?
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How do you plan to adjust camber in the rear? Seems like this conversion is a good all-around solution aside from that...
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Thanks John. Can you recommend me any suspension-for-dummies-type books that I can pick up? Unfortunately the science behind suspension tuning is way beyond me...I even had to google scrub radius. Thanks!
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I hate asking this question, as I've been searching for days for wheel/tire setups and should have come across a solid answer. Looking to get a diamond racing 15x10 setup. I'd prefer not to stagger tire sizes, and unfortunately (as I'm sure you know) there's not much for 15" tires, so I'm looking to run 275/50/15's all around. This is a non-coilover car (wheel spacers will be on hand), lowered with tokico's advanced handling kit, and ZG Flares. Aside from normal trimming of the front valence, etc. (which I'm fine with), will 275's fit under a front flare and be manageable? Thanks!
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Switch is functioning, although I'm not sure correctly...it completes the circuit when the plunger is pushed in when I have the "pull away" setup with the pedal. Not sure if that made sense and I'm also not sure if that matters at the moment, since the switch still doesn't activate the brake lights either way. Bridging the wires do nothing.
Pulled the fuse box, cleaned all connections and replaced most of the fuses.
Everything else works, except for the reverse lights...which were probably never hooked up properly after the swap. Never noticed or really cared to notice until today. Pretty much at a loss; trying to drive this thing (safely!) tomorrow!
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Everything else functions properly. I switched around bulbs a few weeks back to eliminate the bulbs...everything appeared to work.
Next time I go out to the garage, I'm going to bridge the brake switch wires next time and see if, somehow, the new switch I got is malfunctioning.
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Sorry, sorry...I've been searching. I'm just horrible with anything electrical.
1972 240
I've been having intermittent problems with my turn signals, but my brake lights went out and stayed out a few weeks ago. Bought new flasher units for both the hazard and turn signals, and bought a new brake switch. Checked all fuses. Everything works flawlessly except for the brake lights (which don't work at all). My voltmeter shows there's 12 volts at the brake switch. Am I missing a ground somewhere? A search I found makes reference to a ground for the brake/tail lights, but didn't mention a year. Any help? Many thanks!
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I like the car, so I think I'll see it through it's rusty phase.
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Just to say it... I'm sure I could, with a lot of research, tackle this myself—-but that's not what I want. I'd rather watch someone do it right and learn from it.
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I won't be doing anything to the car without guidance. Taking the car to my friend who restores cars professionally in the next week or two; he's gonna take a look and we'll go from there. I'll be sure to snap some photos along the way.
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I bought the car for the SBC conversion, and the fact that it's been unmolested cosmetically. My intention is for a street/track car, but of course, I don't know how long I'll end up keeping it. I don't have any intention of doing a complete restore of the car, but I'd like to be sure that I'm not going to push the pedal to the tarmac one day, you know? There is additional rust in the car, but nothing that looks too bad. I appreciate the opinions; you've talked me out of patchwork. I'll look into ordering some floor panels next week and will plan on begging my way-more-knowledgeable-hot-rod-friend to help me get 'em in place.
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Photos of the passenger side:
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Just bought my 240 last week. Bought it from another state; went and picked it up. Was told of and saw some photos of the floorboard rust, but of course, it's worse than I was led to believe (s'okay). I've never sought to fix any rust on a car before. I can not weld...I'm planning on doing as much of the leg work as possible then taking the car to a competent welder/shop to get the welding done. I've searched on the site a lot and seen a lot of people's floorboard repairs and whatnot, but I have specific questions about the extent of the rust in my car...particularly looking for opinions on whether or not I can get away with not touching the frame rails and just patching the problematic areas as opposed to purchasing entirely new floorboards.
I plan on using the three-step POR-15 process afterward it's all said and done. Car now lives in Long Beach, California, and will be garaged as long as I own it, so hopefully rust won't pop up again.
Here are photos of the driver's side:
anyone with a 240z live in or near long beach ca?
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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I live in Long Beach. I have a SBC, if that matters. Text me if you wanna sort something out... seven six zero 271 nine seven one one.