Yoak

Alright - I took the Center Console Lid Apart. There is a hand written number in Blue - 12 and there is a white number which is machine printed, but I couldn't make it out. VIN 115403

I also have a ZXR, and I have little doubt that it is legitimate However I noticed my number wasn't on the list. However, I counted 947 total cars, meaning we are still missing some. I am going to have to check and see if my center console is numbered as some others have posted. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2352681

I got it working. In my 79 it was a points setup, that the module was dieing and the car was never that reliable on starting as a result. Since installing it I can now run higher voltage to the coil, I have more control over my timing, and a much improved throttle response. As a plug my mileage also went up and I have a better Idle. To bad though the turbo bug has bitten me again and I am going to probably swap it into my ZXR.

Hi, I have a 280ZX (NA) I have the Crane XR3000 Setup, but I have a small question regarding the wiring. The instructions state to wire to the positive and negative terminals on the coil. I would think that the wiring would in reality be to wire to the Positive & Negative terminals of where the E-12 ignition module is installed, thus removing the module and putting the XR3000 in-line. Is This Correct? Or do I need to wire as stated to the Positive And Negative Terminals Directly and simply unplug the old module?

I am really interested in ordering one of these also. As the manifold is setup will the throttle bodies bolt as they did on the original manifolds?

I will have to install a fuel pressure gauge, buy on the return line it shows around 40 psi, but I honestly don't entirely trust that gauge. My car did not come equiped with the auxillary cooling fan.

Hey Gang, I have been having a very strange starting issue with my 79ZXR for awhile now, and I simply can't figure out what is causing it. The car for the most part will start right up, but on occasions the car will need to be cranked for a good while and it will rumble around 500 rpms and die....if you give it some gas while it is at this point it will usually start right up. If you don't get the car to start within a few times of it rumbling...you will have to turn the key to the off position and try a few times...it simply will not start.... I have done allot of replacement work on the car, and I will list them below. One other note that could be related. When driving the car runs very cool for the most part, there are no issues with overheating. However, when I turn the car off and let it set, the temperature will jump considerably.... My 240z, does not have this issue... In an effort to replace all dieing parts here is what I have done. New Radiator New AFM New TPS New Cold Start Injector New Thermotime Switch New Temprature Sensor New Blaster Coil New Plug/Wires New Distributor New Air Bypass valve New EGR New Fuel Pressure Regulator New Radiator Cap New Injectors Added Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator New Water Pump New Fan Clutch New Injector Clips New PCV Valve + Host Replaced Vacume Hoses Pretty much everything you can think of I Have replaced, and there is a noticeable difference in mpgs, and car performance... One final note is that as the afm is adjusted richer, the car has more trouble starting....the car is already running pretty lean

1979 Datsun 280ZX"R" Limited edition - only 1000 were ever made. Check out zhome.com/History/zxr.htm

Question, I am going down in the morning to try and get my plates swapped over to Historical. I have a ZXR, with enough documenation to make a case if needed. Besides my registration is there anything else I will need?

at this point it appears we only need a map

Hey Gang, I had my Megasquirt II (PCB 3.0) installed into my 240z, we are now having some trouble with fuel map settings. I reloaded the firmware on the acuall unit, 2.3 with the same ini. I can communicate with the ECU Via Megatune, and was able to write to it in a test. Any advice here. When car is powered on the lights will all light up and then go off.

Cold Start Injector Has been replaced and the same issue remains

There may be a potential issue there, I need to recheck this though, as it is hard to hear the pump in the car... Car is also having trouble keeping a steady idle....if you rev car...when ideling back down it will drop below 500 and then bonce to 1000 and will continue to bounce untill stable

Alright Here is an update. NEW Coil New Plugs New Injectors NEW Injectors Replaced Cold Start Injector NEW Cap & Rotor Wires are NGK Replaced original IGN Coil, however I suspect this one may still be bad or going bad.... I have a spare ecu ive tried also....same results There is NO smoke coming from the car... Any other ideas? New Distributor? or Thermo Switch?

79 Is Fuel Injected Any other ideas on what to look at?

Replaced CAP & Rotor Today.... Same Issue....car will start for a brief second...then die out..... In a few minutes ofr so if I floor it....it will start....any other ideas? Maybe Injectors? Distributor?

I have a 79 280ZX Lately it has been having problems starting unless I floor it... and then it sometimes one start..... I have noticed though when it dosen't start if i take one of my extra plus and hook it up to the spark plug wires and set it on the valve cover it will then start... Is this a grounding issue? Distributor? Everything is stock except a new coil and a FPR

Awesome responces thanks, I got everthing in except for the relay cable and it should be here soon. I got the wideband w/ a controler.... I have a member in the community who is helping me out with this, I can't wait to see how the car runs w/ this setup

Will this item work for the WB02 Bosch LSU4.2 5-wire, Wide-band O2 Replacement Sensor L28ET Manifold Also will the Bosch fuel injector connectors work fine with my setup?

Well I have some extra cash and I have always wanted to have more control over my engine w/ the ability to modify thoose options. I loooked into JWT option, but at the end I still want control I have been looking and reading literally all day on the manner. I understand having HS I w/ PCB 3.0 is a viable option but I want the additional controls of the new MS II / PCB 3.0 for my ecu. I have read and I am also going to pick up the relay board as well. So I am going to get a relay and the additoinal wires for the componets, as well as a tuning cable...is there anything else I should look into getting... I love the idea of being able to remove the l28 harness

GrommitZ, Thanks for the reply.... I have swapped the Z31 Blaster Coil back into the car with some pictures attached.... The Original lines that were used with the coil are hooked up as they were when running L28 AFM.... RED hooked into B/W <+> Blue into Y/W <-> (ON L28 ignition harness...used for original L28ET setup) I know the blue wire in the center of the shot needs to be reconnected to the plug below, just didin't have a chance yet... Pin 3 --> Connect it to the B/W on the harness of the coil.. Pin 5 --> connect it to the Blue wire on the coil harness <+> PIN 34 --> Connect to original BRIGHT RED WIRE (PRE COIL) Thanks again just want to clarrify before moving on

Strange, I am getting voltage when switched on that pin. Ill double check that pin number in the morning. Maybe I misunderstood what you wanted me to do.... I took the wire I ran from 34->+ Coil and re ran it from 34 to a switched source... 34 TO PIN X (B/W)

Alright I made some correction based on the last post. Pin 34 is now going into Pin 36, and no longer to the coil. Pin 3 was also removed. Checked Voltage, Positive of Coil is @ 10-12 Volts, when grounded to the body of car. NO Voltage is found when going from Positive to Negative On The Coil. When Cranking there is no Voltage across the terminals ------------------------- I did not rewire pin 16 & 108, as I am getting Fuel Pressure, my car was wierd different, so this wasn't an issue. Also did not connect 12 as my car does not have a speed sensor (240Z w/ 28)

Here is a URL, for the images, to many to post here http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2177873/8 Hopefully this will help still no spark! Everything else seems to be alright, the only thing I can think of is becasue of the wires to the coil from the l28 Harness

Alright! Here we go. I am now using an 84 ECU Turbo. I am now using a Standard Coil I am gettting fuel at the plugs MAF A: Y/Green -> Y/Black (30) --> ECU B: BLACK --> Y/Red (31) --> ECU C: Black/Brown Spots --> GROUND D: Black/Brown Spots --> Black (26) --> ECU E: Black/White --> SPLICED INTO Black/White F: Y/Blue --> Yellow Red --> TO BE CONNECTED TO SWITCHED POWER LATER ECU 3 --> ECU --> WIRE TO NEGATIVE TERMINAL ON COIL 34--> ECU--> WIRE TO POSITIVE TERNMINAL ON COIL 23--> CUT & SPLICED INTO 15 NEXT POST L28 Harness Hookups Y/W --> RAN BLUE WIRE TO NEGATIVE ON COIL B/W --> RAN RED WIRE TO POSITIVE ON COIL NOTE This are the wires that ran the Coil on the L28ET Computer, and spliced into the same location as before COIL