datsunranger

Well if anyone even cares still, here are a few pics on my progress. Pat is currently making a new oil pan, I'm saving up for a Freddy intake and will start construction on some headers for an N/A setup. I have a subaru 4.44 diff installed and a full disc brake conversion upgrade installed, just sorting out little problems here and there. The rb20de Neo was in amazing shape, intake ports clean, plugs clean, and every bolt was miraculously easy to remove... no swearing or praying needed for once, the 1998 R34 must have been very well taken care of. Would anyone have a link or some specs for this motor, maybe piston to deck clearance, piston dish/dome volume, stock head gasket dimensions. From what i have read, the stock combustion chamber is supposedly 50cc, same as any other rb20de. The stock head gasket was 80mm bore and 1.2mm thick con rods are the exact same as any other rb20de Is this all true? I'm just hunting for some more info to accurately calculate compression, trying to do a high comp N/A rb20de

zguy240 is pretty close, so I'm going to pickup the hub from him, so for now my problems solved. I've been running around my local junkyard for a while and really haven't had any luck, nice to know people on this site can help. Thanks for the offers,

Looking for a front wheel hub for a 280z, contact me with what you want for it and a picture of the part. Thanks

Thanks for the info, I've contacted Pat about the oil pan and pickup, hopefully he can help me out.

It is a rwd, got it with a 5-speed, that 71c trans like the Ka's have. So he makes the rear sump pan, iv'e seen his name pop up a few times, was considering having him whip me up one. Does he make the extended pickup tube for the rb20 as well? Another thing i was wondering, does the dipstick need to be moved and how if that's the case?

I've got an rb20de Neo on the way and it appears to be a front sump, from what I have read, the rear sump pan has long been discontinued. I understand there are some aftermarket options available, So since I have no idea whats really going on, could someone enlighten me on the rear sump conversion for this little oddball engine. Do i have to drill out the block like i've seen for some of the rb26 conversions or is it a simple swap for oil pump pick-ups and get a rear sump pan? Also I haven't been able to find anyone with an S30 with a rb20de, especially the Neo, I was just wonder how you liked it compared to a relatively stock L series? Thanks for the help

That's exactly what i needed, thank you so much!

I took my 75 280z out for a drive a couple weeks ago, planning on it being the last drive before i order my RB25det and it may have very well been its last. Driving through the hills at night, casually cruising, when some idiot leaves his high beams on and blinds me around a sharp turn. As soon as he passes me and i can see, i notice an enormous rock sitting on the road, i swerve to avoid but couldn't react quick enough. I could hear the rock destroy the front, hit the tire, and drag across the side of my poor Z. I had left the road and locked the brakes up on dirt and gravel, sliding while occasionally trying to dodge several other large rocks. Finally came to a stop hitting a small hill of loosely packed dirt, to my amazement had saved me from falling 8 feet into a drainage ditch with several large steel I-beams sticking out of the ground. My Front right tire less than an inch away from dropping off the ledge. Went from a totally relaxed cruise to, holly crap this is it, game over. Now to why I'm here, I need dimensions for the frame rails in the engine bay, just some general measurements from the inside of the drivers to the passengers frame rail, a criss cross (X) measurement of the frame would be great. The right front tow hook did a great job of digging into the dirt to slow the car, but at a cost though. The frame is clearly tweaked, the FSM doesn't give hardly any good dimensions, so i could really use your help. If anyone has a known good 280z without an engine, i would really appreciate any help, especially if i could get a few measurements for the frame fails. Also if anyone around the Southern California area (Lancaster - Palmdale - L.A.) has a Spare "engine cradle" or "engine crossmember" I've heard it called, that would also be a big help. Mines pretty scraped up now. Thank you for your help

Anyone running Stock injectors and have the PWM settings. I've just assembled my MS2 V3.0 and don't really have a suitable base map, so figured the way megamanual described the tuning process for PWM settings it might be kinda hard to set with really no experience. Dont want to burn them up... by chance would anyone know how long that would take to burn them? Also i'm running a 76 N42 head and block with 460 lift 260 duration, a 240sx tb, and 6-2-1 headers. If anyone has a tune they're running on a similar setup i would appreciate a map or some pointers Thanks for the help

Most informative, i will try wiring it tonight after class and see how things work out, thanks

I had a question, does anyone have a complete wiring diagram for wiring a 6-wire 280z wiper motor and with the self park function. Im rewiring my entire car, all new wiring with megasquirt and im having trouble getting mine to work correctly. Of course it worked fine before i gutted the car, the only thing that i never had a problem with. I have pulled the fsm up and traced pretty much everything, wired everything to the intermittent module, i get int, low, hi, but dont understand what i have to do to get the wipers to park themself.

Thanks for the help, i will try to break it down from the other end first.

I should have been more descriptive from the start, but basically according to the FSM I have to pull of this counter gear to pull off the input shaft. I was just worried that there might be some kind of trick to popping this gear off and me trying to muscle it off with a gear puller might damage it. Any help would be great the picture has arrows pointing to what im talking about, sorry their a bit faint.

I picked up a 87 200sx 5-speed transmission at my local wrecking yard and planned on swapping out my old 4-speed with it. I ordered a bearing and syncro kit, but when I went to disassemble the fs5w71c the counter drive gear, it wouldn't budge. Is there any trick to getting this thing apart, or do i just really need to put some muscle into this gear puller? Any help would be appreciated