Marduke

I got what I needed. Thanks.

Looking for a nice set of used windshield trim (no major dings or bends). I actually only need the top piece and the "finishing" pieces, I have the 2 pieces that cover the bottom/sides. If you have something laying around ...

Thanks for the response. I was thinking passenger side kick panel I just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to run into too many issues down the line.

And did you run into any issues after the fact? I have a torn apart 240 and I'm trying to minimize any negative impact down the road. As in ... "oh crap I forgot that interior plastic panel went over that" or something like that. Sorry if this has been covered before ...

I've been doing a fair amount of powder coating and have been really pleased with the results. Does anyone know of any resources to match a paint code (ppg, factory, etc.) to a powder coat? I realize that there are some color hue devices and color matching services but is there an easier way to do it? I'd dig more into it if I was planning on doing this professionally but all I really need to do is match a couple/three colors.

Resurrecting this thread as I finally have some video to post. This is far from being a "best" run, as there was some problems with the torque converter. I think this run was in the middle 7's. The car has gone much faster. Anyway ... enjoy!

http://woodgears.ca/eyeball/ Edit: I got 2.71 after a few tries.

Thanks for the input Tony!

I was kind of wondering about this myself. I have an s30 but with the f54 block and I'm planning on laying down 450ish HP. I have a BW t5 in my garage to do the swap but I'm wondering how much it will hold.

So, I was at work today and I was really looking forward to coming home to work on my z. The body work is almost done and I'm looking forward to paint. Anyway, my wife calls me around noonish and says she went to do some laundry in the garage and something smelled funny. Okay, well my wife often empties the trash in the kitchen and leaves the bag in the garage instead of walking the extra 5 feet to the outside door that leads to the side of the house and our trash cans. It's her way of reminding me that I am neglecting my manly trash duties. "Did you leave a bag of trash in the garage?", I ask. "No". Huh? Well I don't know then. 3 hours later she calls me back and tells me it really stinks in there. WTF? Now my wife and I aren't massively anal neat freaks, but we are CLEAN people so I can't for the life of me figure out what would smell that bad. Well, long story short. SomeTHING (I assume rodent in nature but it would have to be fairly large considering the amount of stank) got into my garage and decided to die there. I got home and immediately went out to the garage and was assaulted by the sickly retching vomitous smell of death that has been slowly cooking in my garage for many hours in 90+ degree heat. I'm not squeamish but man that smells bad. I grab the fabreeze and liberally spray while I use a flashlight to inspect all my nooks and crannies. Nothing!!! I can't find a damn thing! I just spent an hour in that stench and I can still taste it. UUUUGHHH!!! Please feel free to laugh at my misfortune, if it weren't my garage it would be funny. Anyone know how long it takes for a corpse to decompose enough not to stink anymore? I've looked everywhere!!

Using it to help pay my property taxes . Gotta love CA.

My dad is running 2 inlines (Chevy 250's) in his dragster. It actually runs like one big inline 12. It sounds awesome. Definitely a head turner when we take it out. http://www.sissellsautomotive.com/

Thanks Tony. I think I have a plan of attack for this weekend. Just in case someone searches this post in the future here's some related info from an article I came across that jives with what you're suggesting. How can I reduce ignition noise? Electromagnetic Radio Frequency Interference (EMI or RFI) from the engine’s ignition can be a major problem when trying to capture sensitive electronic instrument data adjacent to a high compression spark-ignition engine. RFI problems worsen as the engine’s throttle is opened (increased cylinder pressure raises the peak ignition voltage) and may more severe as RPM increases (raising the RFI frequency). RFI symptoms include erratic DYNOmite tachometer and/or servo operation, Personal Computer lock-up, spikes in the data. Taking one or more of the following preventive steps will generally allow testing of even the wildest combinations. These problems are not specific to the DYNOmite, so your ignition system’s manufacturer may have other suggestions you can follow. 1) Run all ground leads to either the engine’s battery (or block if no battery is used) or to a clean common junction connected by a heavy-duty ground cable to the engine’s battery. Ideally this battery's negative terminal and/or dynamometer's frame itself should be connected directly to a quality earth ground (e.g. buried copper rod) via a large gauge wire (for a very low resistance connection). Avoid multiple ground points as this often creates a “ground loop†(where RFI can get onto the circuit). CAUTION: Always hook up all the ground leads before hooking up any of the power leads for the DYNOmite Data Acquisition module, its accessories, or the engine. Failure to follow this precaution can lead to circuit damage not covered under warranty! 2) Try using resistor sparkplugs (or caps) and also run graphite ignition cables (or genuine MAGNECOR brand Race Wires). These components tremendously reduce the level of RFI generated by the ignition. Killing the noise at the source is much more effective than chasing down every dyno harness lead that might be receiving these unwanted random signals. CAUTION: Spiral wire wound “suppression†ignition cables are not anywhere near as effective (at reducing EMI) as true graphite core cables. The cheapest set of graphite wires will “out-suppress†the most expensive wound metallic wires. The only effective EMI suppression wires (that are not pure carbon or graphite core) used in the high end automotive racing world are manufactured by MAGNECOR. For some straight talk about the pro's and con's of various type sparkplug wires, read "THE TRUTH ABOUT IGNITION WIRE CONDUCTORS" or "A Brief Overview of the Performance Aftermarket Ignition Wire Industry in the USA". Tip: Keep an inexpensive set of graphite core cables in the dyno cell for troubleshooting problem ignitions. You don’t need expensive high temperature 8+ mm silicone jacket wires with high quality boots to survive on the dyno. Even installing just a graphite core coil lead may do the trick. New graphite cables will not reduce the engine’s power. 3) Keep the ignition wires (and coil wire) as short as practical and avoid routing the DYNOmite’s harness leads parallel or near to the ignition wires. Tip: The EGT probes have extra shielding on them to allow operation near the ignition. Conversely, the Engine Temperature leads are quite sensitive to RFI, keep them away from the ignition if you can. Tip: Temporarily iinstall braided metal shielding, such as Aeroquip stainless braid hose (grounded at one end to the engine block) over all the sparkplug (and coil) wiring. This trick was used on early Corvettes and many marine applications where the fiberglass engine cowling provided poor RFI suppression. 4) If RFI is interrupting communications between the DYNOmite Data Accusation Computer and your PC running DYNO-MAX (via a RS-232 serial port connection) the use of Land Sea's special shielded and filtered cables may help. Typically such interference is much more troublesome as the throttle is opened (increasing cylinder pressure and spark intensity). Also, avoid using USB adapters as they just add another point of EMI sensitivity - instead use a computer with built-in RS-232 ports (or add an RS-232 port bus card) so that there will be an uninterrupted grounded shield from the DYNOmite to the PC.. Tip: In extreme cases fiber optic RS-232 serial "cabling" is available from several manufacturers. Such hook-ups use a converter at each end that translates the normal hard-wired connection into a light signal that runs along the fiber optic link. However, be sure to select models that do not require power from the PC or DYNOmite RS-232 signal to operate! 5) Since many models of PCs and laptops are very poorly "hardened" against the levels of EMI present near a spark ignition engine, try other models (or brands) to find a more robust computer. Most modern PCs are no longer grounded via their power cords or chargers. In certain cases running a large gauge (#12 or 10) wire to ground the PCs case helps - try it both ways. Moving a problem PC further away from the engine is always a good idea. Sometimes, simply reorienting the position of the PC, its power cord, etc. may uncover a less sensitive position (just as moving a radio's antenna effects its ability to pick up a weak station).

My Dad's shop has been running this Dyno combo for years. It's older but has always done the trick. Up until recently he was using an old 386 running Dos and never had a problem. That box died so we installed the software onto another more recent machine I had laying around. I mean it's still old as hell but is reminescent of the newer computers , thin metal and plastic case rather then the heavy metal cases on most of the old 286/386 machines. Anyway, all seemed well we did a couple low rpm pulls on a motor and the data acquisition looked good. We got numbers that made sense. 2 weeks later he goes to dyno a motor with a high output mag and after a high rpm run starts to get garbage for data. I somehow doubt he made 58,000 HP on that pull but that is the kind of things he's seeing. Everything is funky. The controls are behind a standard wall with some additional plywood and plexiglass windows. Could that high output mag be messing with our box? I'd like to rule this out as a variable before I start reinstalling everything. If it is a possibility, anyone have any suggestions for additional shielding? Thanks a bunch!

Tide (powdered kind) + whatever thinner you have lying around. Be careful as it's slippery.