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Danish240Z

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Posts posted by Danish240Z

    Z Flare Kit Fiberglass

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted · Edited by Danish240Z

    I just read the MSA ad and I'm not sure what they mean by "faux bolt-on cutouts" on the ZG flares. Almost every ZG flare I have seen on this forum is actually bolted on--that gives the owner the utility of removing them very easily if they need to for any reason. To bond them on means permanently installing them. If that is the case, then blending them in almost seems like a better idea. However, you may actually like the look of these, so I won't say anything negative; they do look OK. The one good thing I see is that they can be painted separately from the car, and this is very important if you already have a good paint job and wish to not need to repaint the entire car, which would need to be done with blending in flares to the body.

     

    Read about some of the issues regarding the ZG flares in general--they have been designed using an old mold, which has made them inconsistent in the product. Usually, work needs to be done on them prior to installation anyway, so I wonder just how these would fare instead of the ZG flares? If the mold they use is new, great, but if it is old, then I suspect you would have at least a little work to do to them before the final install. Somehow, everyone seems to make their flares fit the car ;) Maybe someone who is using them will chime in.

     

     

    Thank you very much, useful information! :)

     

    Davy

     

     

    If you're not cutting the body for extra tire clearance, don't put flares on the car. If you do, you won't be able to put the bigger wheels on that would fill up the flares, because when the suspension compresses the tires will hit the original fender lip. It's kind of like putting a hat on top of your hat. Pointless.

     

    Okay :unsure:

     

    I have thought of the flares as a body kit. As written before, i don't wanna cut my fenders - will give my car rust.

     

    Maybe i should just drop them, what about flares without wider wheels? Do that look stupid? Is there some pictures of it anywhere?

     

    - Kind regards

    Sebastian

    Why did you decide to stay with the Datsun L6 motor?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted · Edited by Danish240Z

    Surely they pay if they were wrong, right?

     

    I find that ridiculous. So you can buy a car that came with 500hp from the factory, but to get the same HP from a different car, that came with 200HP from the factory... is illegal? Where's the logic in that? What are the laws supposed to protect?

     

    What if you modify a car to have less horsepower? Take off a few fuel injector clips, and get on the highway and cause all sorts of chaos. Since it almost seems like they want everyone to have less power. Less power = safer in their minds, or what?

     

    Hmm.. I dont know, i dont think they will pay for the dyno if they are wrong. Maybe if you make court case, but nobody have tried that before for a dyno session.

     

     

    It is ridiculous - you can not imagine how stupid I think it it's :(

    Yes that is illegal. The government only trust the factory to "say good" for cars.

    I think the laws is supposed prevent young guys in cheap twin turbo cars (examble) with to small brakes.

    But why the hell do they not hire some people to check if the tuned cars are safe with brake and so on. Instead, they prohibit it all! <_<

     

    Yes.. They think less power and slower is more safe for the country :o

     

     

    But there is some methods to get past the 20% rule:

    - If the car factory, or the official car importer (Nissan Denmark) will say that the car can handle that power/engine.

    - Get the car "TÃœV Merkblatt 751" certified (brake, emission, dyno and stering is testet) - Cost around 10.000$

    - Rebuild the cars to a more powerful model (Brakes, engine, suspension) and pay 180% in taxes to the government of the car's estimated value after the rebuild.

     

    Then i can be road legal - not easy! :angry:

     

     

    Wish i where born in US! :blink:

    Why did you decide to stay with the Datsun L6 motor?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Two things. Do you get free dyno sessions from the government to prove/disprove the HP rating? and How do they handle hidden/removable devices that can be switched off/detuned for the test; like NOS or a turbo?

     

    You have to pay yourself for the dyno session, if the government think it has to much power. Turbo and compressor is declared always above 20%, because they dont think people want to get less than 20% increase in hp with that.

    We dont have any laws against NOS, but i think it should be used on the dyno test.

     

    The government inspect our vintage cars (+35 years) every 8 years (newer cars every second year) - so people can cheat with having a turbo (or NOS) on for 8 years and then take it off when the inspection is time. But there will be very big fines, if that is discovered!

    Why did you decide to stay with the Datsun L6 motor?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    I keep my L engine, because here in Denmark we have some stupid rules (maybe the only place in the world?) that says an car may not have more than 20% more hp than stock (240Z = 150 + 20% = 180HP) So there is no reason to switch to another engine, - not street legal :icon13:

     

    Would have been nice with a turbo L engine, V8 or RB.. Wish i where born in a country, where the government like cars :(

    Mynissanparts.com

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    Might be able to source one. What other parts you looking for?

     

    I think i have found one in Europe.. But i will remember you :)

     

     

    I believe they are the same. I can't see the bearing number, but these parts are interchangable on US models telling me they were a 'universal application'... things like bearings and seals are RARELY market-dependent.

     

    I hate to admit this, but my 74 260Z has a partially collapsed steering column, and those parts are just hanging there most of the time. It hasn't affected driving of the car for over 150,000 miles, including countless autocrosses.

     

    I can see where a bearing that was sticking could cause a problem, but it's a support item for the end of the shaft, it's along for the ride mostly...

     

    Thank you for the information :)

    Good to know that it can work with a collapsed column.

     

    Hello Sebastian,

    I do have a steering column here in europe.

    I was having some play in it so I've replaced it. I found out the issue was coming from some play between the top & bottom jackets.

    If you would be interested by it => MP

     

    I have sent a PM!

    Mynissanparts.com

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted · Edited by Danish240Z

    I wonder why they said it wouldnt fit yours?

     

    They say they wont fit others than American models :blink:

     

    Hmm those three parts should be the same as what you've got if you've got the same column. Either way if you've already bought them then you could try them out and see. Did you ask the seller what parts he doesn't think will fi, and why? too small? too big? If your column is different than pictured then he might be right.

     

    I have just received a email from Mynissanparts.com, none of the parts are available and they are all out of production :(

    I think i need to buy a used steering column to get the parts :unsure:

    Mynissanparts.com

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    I have only speculation, but I would say those parts should interchange.

     

    The RHD and LHD columns have some differences, but from what Ive seen (and I have had a few RHD setups) the top stuff is all the same. The bulkhead side is very similar in the 2, but have some slight alterations to conform to the bulkhead shape(and Throttle assembly). Other than that the internal stuff all appears to be the same.

     

    Okay, thank you! :-)

     

    - Denmark is all left hand drive.

    Mynissanparts.com

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted · Edited by Danish240Z

    Hi!

     

    I have just ordered a few parts from Mynissanparts.com

     

    Part numbers 12-13-14 from: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunFairladyZIndex/Steering/SteeringColumn/tabid/1745/Default.aspx

     

    And now the seller is claiming that none of the parts will fit my European Datsun 240Z April 1971.

     

    Can anybody confirm, or is the seller wrong?

     

    Thank you!

     

     

    - Sebastian Poulsen

    240Z HLS30-29869

    Denmark

    L24 or L28??? Help!

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Wasn't this asked earlier---with some Danish requirement for using the L24?

     

    Revving of the engine is totally dependent on the camshaft you select. Put an L24 Camshaft in an L28, it runs and revs like an L24, just with more power...

     

    Easiest displacement option to keep regulators and inspectors at bay is the L28 crank in your original block for 2600cc's displacment.

     

     

    Thank you, it was just the answer i wanted.

     

    Revving of the engine is totally dependent on the camshaft you select. Put an L24 Camshaft in an L28, it runs and revs like an L24, just with more power...

     

    I have not known that :-)

    L24 or L28??? Help!

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Hi!

     

     

    I am wondering what engine to put in my 1971 240Z - i want a L-series non turbo.

     

     

    I want to get 200HP at the wheels.

     

     

     

    Should i go "original" with L24 and build and stroke it up for performance?

     

    Or choose the L28, that I have been told not revs so good as the L24? But maybe is more easy (and cheaper) to get up to the wanted 200whp?

     

     

    Hope you will help! :)

    L26 or L28E?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    You can source a L24 block here in the US for a very reasonable price (perhaps $100 or less). I think there's someone selling one in the classified here for $50. The L24 came with two heads - the E31 and the E88. Early E88s are basically the same as the E31.

     

    The most power you're going to get from a L24 would be a rebuilt engine from either Rebello or Sunbelt. Rebello makes a special L24 engine that's 'stroked' to 2.7 liters but uses the stock block and head. You'd be able to show your government folks the correct block and head.

     

    http://www.rebelloracing.com/enginebuild.htm

     

    They claim 270HP with triples. Not sure of your budget, but you may want to consult them. I suspect they've sold to Europe.

     

    Thats very cheap, I gonna look out for that :) - Thank you for the info :)

     

     

    Oh, i did not know that a L24 with stock block and head could make so much power!

    Thank you, you have been a great help :)

    When is my 240Z build?

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted · Edited by Danish240Z

    Well, as far as I know, some Zs, like the Fairlady Zs, didn't have a build date stamped anywhere on the car. I don't know if that's also true with european models as well. If there's no plate on the door jamb with a build date, it probably isn't on there. You might try checking your seatbelts if they're original. They should have a date on them somewhere. I know there's other markings that could tell you, but I think the seatbelts might be the easiest.However, the date on the seatbelt is not necessarily the build date of your car, but it should be close, if not the same.

     

    Okay.. :) - I will take a look at my seat belt now, i think they are original :)

     

     

    according to that site, your Z is between Jan and Sept 71'post-4150-063816400 1292879741_thumb.jpg

     

    Oh yes, i can see :) Thank you!

    When is my 240Z build?

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

     

    Thank you! Very good information! :)

     

     

    If you imported a Z from the US, you can just check the plate in the door jamb.

     

    - No, it is sold directly to Europe.. Do you know where to find the plate on the European models?

     

     

    The pictures of the ID plates don't match, they're from different cars. As Owen pointed out, build month/year are on the door jamb plate.

     

    Oh, i can see it :) The one is from my 240Z and the other is from a German spare car (260Z) i once had..

    - Same question: Do you know where to find the plate on the European models?

    L26 or L28E?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    I have no idea how such a law could be enforced. Do they expect you to hand over a dyno sheet when you rebuild a non original motor? Does this law apply to the block (displacement) only or does swapping the head constitute a non-OEM motor? The E88 and E31 heads are not ones I'd use for a turbo set-up. You can go with a turbo head, dished pistons, and then add a turbo, but it's not going to be as strong as turbo block which has difference beyond mere displacement.

     

    They test drives the car, and if they think the engine have to much power - they can require a dyno sheet. The law apply to both engine-block and vital parts inside block. (Head & Camshaft) - but I don't think they can require me to rip the engine apart to they can see the inside parts. (Another thing is that many people in Denmark have never seen or known anything about old Datsuns and L engines.)

     

    Thank you for the help :)

     

     

    What year L28E? Are you talking about a Euro L28, because they have different pistons/c.r. than a US L28.Regardless, you want the L28 due to the better breathing around the valve/cylinder wall region. The L26, 83mm bore, is too choked-off.DAW

     

    I dont know what the engine year is. :/

    Thank you, now i know the difference! :)

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