Ford Falcon

I just like what you've done to fit that VH in there without having to modify the hood. It makes for an awesome sleeper.

How about going to the other end of the scale... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmkvVZT5Cm8&NR=1 Got billy-cart ?

Hey viewers, Not sure how many of you also frequent the NICO forums. I posted a question the same question there just recently. Basically, I'm rebuilding my VH45 at the moment and am curious to know if anyone has a custom / aftermarket crank pulley, and if so, would it be worth having one? Cheers, Dave

Hey Mark, Good to see you online! You finished your 450Z project ? I went to harbor freight tools today and bought an angle grinder, but I haven't tackled those bolts yet. Unfortunately I've already rounded the torx socket on about 6 of them, so I will have to find another way to get those out. I'd rather not grind on the brackets if I can avoid it, but I know I will need new bolts. Having said that, the ones beside the timing chain gears will be fun to remove.

Apologies if this has been discussed before. Has anyone, during their course of tearing down a VH45 engine (I have a 1991) had a problem removing the 42 bolts that hold down the 4 overhead camshafts? I'm in the middle of tearing mine down now to give it a thorough once over, and I'm sure with Nissan's infinite (Infiniti?) wisdom, they had their reasons for trying to make these items tamper proof by making use of torx bolts, and I've so far gone through three T30 torx bits. I am tempted to just grind these bolt heads down and use an easy out or something. Does anyone have any suggestions or hints? Thanks guys.

Thanks for the info guy, especially mtcookson. You're a wealth of information! I thought I'd check the ECU codes and make sure it's working ok before I pull the engine. The 34 code says the knock sensors need replacing. I called a local Infiniti dealership and they want $168 for each! I tried Autozone and Kragen, thinking they might be a better price, they are charging $179 each! There are a few eBay places doing them for anywhere between $60-$68. I'm tempted to get them from eBay. Let me know if anyone recommends any business on eBay, or any other business that deals in Infiniti parts. Thanks.

Hey viewers, Haven't posted here in awhile and apologies for the dumb question, but I had to ask. I have a complete '92 Q45 in my garage sitting next to my '88 300ZX Z31. My plan is to take all the part off the Q that would be worth using on my hybrid Z. Note: My aim is to use either a Z32 manual transmission, or a 350z/G35 manual transmission. Apart from the engine, the wiring loom and the ECU, can you guys list any other parts I should keep before I part out the rest of the Q, or send it to the junk yard? I am thinking about keeping the differential, but not yet sure if that will fit easily with my Z31. Later, Dave

Marc, have you thought about a hydro-boost brake system instead? I have not yet taken measurements, but perhaps replacing the vacuum booster with something else might help out. I hope to be trying that out next month.

Damn! That looks good, Lunar. And thanks for the link, and for posting the pics. It makes a world of difference. I should have searched more thoroughly before I posted this thread, but I wasn't sure how to describe what i was looking for. This looks like just what I'm after. I like the idea of being able to move the master cylinders elsewhere. I need to free up some space for the VH to fit in the Z. Glad I found this site, you guys have some great ideas!

Dual master cylinders eh? You got any details on where you're getting yours from? I came across this site today... http://www.hydratechbraking.com/ I didn't think of a hydraulic assist unit to replace the booster vacuum cylinder. It certainly would give more room, at least width-wise.

Hi All, I have a Z31, and I'm curious to know if anyone has used a modified or alternative brake booster and master cylinder setup for their Z? I plan to drop a VH45 into mine, and have it sit as close to the firewall as possible, but it looks like the MC and booster will be in the way. Has anyone performed any mods for this?

I would be grateful if you could confirm that. Thanks, mate! By the way, I'm impressed with what you've been doing to your Z. It sure does make a difference when you have easy access to the equipment for designing and creating some of those custom parts. And so I don't divert from the topic I started here, do you mind if I PM you about a couple of other things to do with this setup? Thanks marc!

Hey Marcg, I will as soon as I can get an engine hoist. It sux to be tight on money sometimes. I noticed your signature shows 450Z. So you have already performed this swap? I want to do it with a Z31, mostly because I already have the car, but also, because I've not found anyone who has. Not to my knowledge.

Hello Clif. Thanks for your reply. I was fishing to see if anyone else out there has a Z31 and is performing the same type of surgery on theirs. Yes, I'm aware that there is more to a swap than merely engine mounts. (These are the simplest). There is also what you listed, possibly custom exhaust manifolds, not to mention modifying the wiring loom and probably a different engine management system as well. I did eventually spy a site that describes some detail on creating them... http://users.bigpond.net.au/lachlan/tech/mounts.html How to Make Custom Engine Mounts The story started when I got 2 sets of engine mounts to fit my 4AGE in the KE25 but neither of them sat the engine in a good position. It was too high and sloped back and also the drag link hit the gearbox which isn't a desirable thing when it comes to engine fitting! So I set about making some new engine mounts and one day later I couldn't be happier, thats why I will now share with you the method which I found to be extremely simple and effective and therefore very achievable by the backyard enthusiast. The Rubber Vibration Insulator Thing First choose the rubber mounts which you wiull use. You may use what comes with the new engine or what was on the old engine. The simpler the better. I used a gearbox mount from a Landcruiser or Land Rover or something. The part number is NRC 2054. This is a very simple mount which fits the car perfectly. Position the Engine Using a crane or chain block or whatever you can rig up drop the engine and gearbox into the bay. Try and use the original gearbox crossmember position and see if the engine fits in. If not then ignore the gearbox position because it has to be changed anyway and concentrate only on the engine. Measure the centre of the car and place a mark on the swaybar or something to line the centre of the crank up with. Its not entirely necessary to have it dead on centre but the closer the better. Sit it as far back as you can with enough clearance for heater hoses and stuff. Drop it as low as possible without leaving the sump hanging down too low in a vulnerable position. Leave enough room above the crossmember and when you have it right tie it in position with some rope or something. Maybe rest it on some wood or whatever you have lying around. Then check the steering linkages for clearance at full lock and all suspension components. When you are satisfied with the position its now time to move on to the next step. The Template Choose your steel size. I used 6mm steel as it is very strong but still workable with simple backyard tools. Generally try to stay at least the same thickness as what was on the engine before. When you have your steel size get some MDF the same thickness or as close as you can get. It only comes in 3mm, 6mm, 9mm, 12mm etc. Bolt the rubber block to the mount in the position that you want it to finish up. Bolt the old mounts to the engine and see of any part of them can still be used. If not than move on ahead. You will then have to make a plate that bolts to the block. use the existing mount holes if necessary or whatever is in line with the mount on the car. Cut out a shape of MDF and trim it untill it is a neat fit, drill the holes in it and bolt it to the block. Now maybe your old mounts will weld to this plate or some more custom work is necessary. Make a plate out od MDF that bolts to the rubber block and is in line with the plate on the engine. Hopefully it will extend out evenly on either side of the rubber block but if no thats still ok. Now we assume the old mounts are useless so all you have to do is make some more plates out of MDF that fit in between the engine block plate and the rubber block plate. Try and get one on either side of the rubber block to even out the load. Remeber to leave access to the bolts holding the plate to the engine and the plate to the rubber mount. Once you have at least two plates made up you can now take it all off and proceed to the next step. The Mounts Work out the minimum width steel that you can use to make the plates. Go buy some steel from the local steel merchants. As a guide I got 1m of 6mm X 130mm for $11 and 2m of 6mm X 75mm for $14. Trace the MDF shapes onto the steel and start cutting. I used a 100mm angle grinder and went through 4 cutting blades. There are easier ways but it really wasnt that difficult. When they are cut out, mark and drill the holes for the mounting plates. Bolt it all up to the engine and car and see if it fits as before. Assuming it all lines up grap your welder and tack it into place with enough weld to keep it in shape while you remove it from the car. Take it off the car and weld up all joints thorougly. When done, let it cool and bolt it back up. It should be perfect but might need the holes drilled off centre a bit due to the distortion from the heat when welding. Once it fits nicely pull it off and paint it and then bolt it up again and you are halfway there! Finishing off Now that one is finished the engine should be held in position well and it is just a matter of repeating the procedure on the other side. Remeber that the engine may drop a little when the mounts compress so you can lift the engine higher than you want it while measuring up.

Does anyone know if the VH45 motor mounts will fit on a 300ZX (Z31), or will they need to be custom fabricated? For those that are getting theirs fabricated, are you all doing solid metal mounts, or are you using something softer?