kal7467

ok well if anyone is interested the later boosters 72+ came with a few different sized rods that attach to the pedal via the fork clamp with pin. It was as simple as swapping out the smaller fork clamp with a friends larger one. Pin size that attaches to the pedal also varies.

Ok well I am putting my 1971 Series 1 240 back together and my brake booster was looking rough so I decided I would buy a booster from a 280z from the parts store. I took all the bolts and everything else off the old booster including the nipple part that goes into the master cylinder and the bracket that attaches to the pedal assembly with a pin.. The bracket from the old booster that attaches to the brake pedal that threads onto the booster is actually smaller than the stud on the new one. now the part seems to be made of copper or brass so it should be easy to enlarge and rethread but I just wanted to know if this was something others ran into or if I got an oddball reman booster with a larger diameter stud on the pedal end? Also on the master cylinder side the nipple part that goes into the master seems to be a lot longer, I can replace it with the one from the old booster. I can post pics if it makes it more clear. I just want to make sure I have the correct part before I drill new holes in the fire wall to mount the larger booster. On a side note If someone has the correct bracket that goes with the larger booster I would be happy to buy it from them. thanks for any info you can share...

Well today I pulled the motor,tranny ,diff and all the suspension pieces even though I planned on just rattle can painting the engine bay black. Happy to report no rust under the battery or any where else un expected that we hadn't already cut out and fixed. We used seam sealer on a few places like the frame rails and tranny tunnel and painted the whole underside, interior, and engine bay with rust shield black paint and then sprayed the engine with the Datsun light blue metalic and cleared it so we can replace the engine other pieces and roll it to the actual paint booth. I am really glad we gutted the whole thing because I was able to get everything protected with phosphoric acid and then the rust shield. Here are a few pics. Tikico suspension will go on sunday and the suspension pieces will be painted black with chassie saver and the gear boxes will be scrubbed a bit. Enjoy the pics...

i believe i can connect the 2 larger gauge wires behind the amp gauge and that will complete the circuit the amp gauge breaks. I was more concerned with the fuel gauge. I am assuming Nissan changed the wire colors, connectors over the years and don't want to **** it up...have the 71 wireing diagram guess it is time to look at the 76...was just hoping to hear from someone who has done this.

are LED's really something to grrrr about...

do the others work without any bulbs in the tach? if not than all the lights are prob on the same circuit and the circuit as a whole needs some resistance in it

some circuits need a certain amount of resistance to work. not sure if this is one of them but if it is you would need to put a resister in line with one of the led's so the car senses a load. if not I am sure someone more knowledgeable will chime in.

ok I have a 1971 series 1 240z and just bought a volt/fuel gauge from a 1976 280z. I have been searching around the net to find a writeup on doing this swap and have only found one for a 260 that was not quite complete. anyone who has done this swap and can chime in or post a link to a writeup would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance jamie

just pulle dthe seatbelts out of my 71 build date 9/70 so should be the same. can get some pics if you want them. they are a little faded but in overall good condition...pm or email me at jmeb7467@hotmail.com