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edwin

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Posts posted by edwin

  1.  Thanks for the link. but the tread is so old some of the links no longer work. especially the ones that are close to my setup.

    Is there another site somewhere?

    I notice I should have added more detail.

    My system.
    Nissan L28 turbo t3/t4 63.
    MS3-pro

    Pallnet fuel rail
    440cc injectors Supra Low Impedence

    240SX TB

    3" downpipe.
    LS2 ignition coils

    NPR intercooler 2.5" 
    Gm Map sensor for (Diyautotune)
    36-1 trigger wheel with Hall effect sensor (Diyautotune)
    Autometer Wibeband..

     

    instagram = egaring2

  2. Hello all,
    I'm new to the forum and i'm sorry is this is a repeat question. I've been searching but not finding anything. I'm looking for a basic tune I can work with. Learning a lot over the last few weeks reading a lot of material.
    I was having trouble getting the laptop connected. Waiting for some fuses to come in the mail and hopefully that will turn on the system.
    In the mean time I wanted to start setting up my tune.
    Please something to get me started. Thanks Ed
    My system.
    Nissan L28 turbo t3/t4 63.
    MS3-pro
    440cc injectors
    LS2 coils
    Gm Map sensor for (Diyautotune)
    36-1 trigger wheel with Hall effect sensor (Diyautotune)
    Autometer Wibeband..

  3. thanks Zetsaz,

     

    Yes your correct. Pin 35 power up the board. I have power going in from there and suppose to have power going out of pin 8.... 5 ohms.

    I emailed Matt at diyautotune and he advised me to look at the internal fuses to see if they are burnt. Hoping that's all it is..

     

  4. HI All

    I finally install my ms3-pro. (First Gen) But I get get a connection. USB.

    I've triple check all my grounds

    gray pinout Pin 3, 5, 7, 9 & 18.

    white pinout pin 16 logic ground..

    I'm not 100 percent sure MS is turning on.

    I check wire 8. (Grey) 5v+Vref and their no power.  Zero ohms..

    Am I missing something.

    Any suggestion?

    Thanks
    ED

    no connection.jpg

  5. I put this together in case anyone needs a better visual wiring diagram.

    Please add input and I will add to it.

    Also if you see anything wrong let me know and I will correct it.

    Hoping to create a master diagram guild for those none electrical  guys.

    1st draft. 

    post-1451-0-16743200-1455910905_thumb.png

  6. I finally got my MS3-pro and slowly reading and installing it.

     

    I just figured out that I need a Igniter for the Ford coils I have.

    These coils do not have a build in igniter. (only  2 wires out of it)

     

    DIYautotune offers QuadSpark but they are 90 bucks each and I have to buy 2.

     

    I've seen menbers mention using Nissan 6 channel igniter. Is this a better option and how is it wired up?

     

    Can anyone recommed an igniter? and direct me to a wiring diagram for it.

     

    Ford COP
    MS3-pro
    82 L28ET distributer running the DIY trigger wheel

     

    thanks

  7. These cars will run for 5 min on puddled fuel.

     

    The stock ecus on 280zx will fuse the injector drivers and continuously hold the injectors open if you jump start the car with the polarity wrong.

     

    After this has happened, I've seen more than one dealership mechanic run the car with the fuel pump off and/or injectors disconnected because of the puddling caused by the fused drivers.

     

    It can and has happened.....just not sure it has happened here but it could have.

     

    Years later, at Blue Streak's ecu rebuilding facility, I ran into my fair share of fused injector drivers on these ecus.

     

    Fused injectors wow never could of thought of that. How do I fix that? I know for sure I jump started the car so it is posible.

    I tune the ECU well not me... Bernard tuned the ecu for me with Nistune. He has done it many time so I feel it is 98% correct. And he has tried many things to get it not to run so rich. I feel it's more a mechanical error.

    Any other thing I should check? Thanks

  8. 5 minutes worth of puddled fuel. That's a puddle. Didn't think of that. I did think cold start valve stuck open though. Do you have one connected? You mentioned the thermotime switch.

     

    You didn't actually say that the gauge showed zero psi. When the car is running, the gauge needle on the rail is at zero?

     

    And you have the FPR adjustment stud backed all the way out?

     

    You should either start the car or run the fuel pump and turn the FPR adjustment stud in to increase fuel pressure. If the FPR and gauge are working, the gauge needle will move up. This would be a good test of whether or not your gauge and FPR actually work correctly and that your fuel lines are connected right.

     

    It's at zero at idle and the gauge needle moves when I increase pressure. So I assume the FPR and gauge is working.

    Cold valve is not stuck open. I had my manifold welded up and I don't have one anymore. So Thermotime swicth shouldn't be an issue? or will it still send a signal to the ECU? causing other injectors to spit out more fuel. I don't think so but I had to ask.

    Maybe my FPR should be at the front of the rail? I hear it don't matter...

    Thanks again!!!

  9. Or the bottom of the manifold has so much fuel pooled in it that it's running on fumes and residue.

    Seen JeffP's car do that for 5 minutes with no fuel pressure whatsoever.

     

    An aside: What gauge are you using. Cheap gauges are never reliable as a measure of fuel pressure. They are more for show than anything reliable. Where is the gauge and where did it come from?

     

    Hey guys, thanks

    The fuel pressure regulator is set at zero. It is positioned at the end of the rail. I have a Pallnet fuel rail and a gauge he supplied

    for it. Maybe my FPR is bad. I will open up the manifold and suck up any residue.

  10. Need help please. I attempted to do this swap and I think I did everything right.

     

    First It won't start. I had no spark and flooded my plugs. Figured it out. Fixed that. changed my plugs.

    Car runs...

    But know no matter how the ecu is tuned I am running rich. or is it something else. What am I missing...

    Right know the FPR is at zero psi.

    I triple check and my MAF it's working correctly. The thermo-switch is fine. everything that tells the ecu what to do is working.

     

    My plugs are black and I have oil spitting out of my exhaust.

  11. Hey Guys I'm killing my self with this prob.

    What else could it be. I did a z31 ecu swap and every thing looks to be connected correctly.

    Maf is talking to the ecu, idle is at 3200 rpm, I have spark, etc...I can find any leaks in the hose.

    But my plugs are still black and I lower my fpr to zero. and is still rich has ever.

    Does it matter the the fpr is at the end of the rail after the injectors or should I re-position them to go in front?

  12. I need help please...

    I've lowered my fuel pressure down to 5 psi and I'm still running rich.

    I put in Merkur XR4TI 370cc injectors and using z31 ecu. My body flashes my ecu and he says it's set as low as it can go.

    What am I missing? Thanks

  13. It's another no start question sorry.

     

    My set up is

    1982 zxt

    300zxt ecu.... etc

    3700cc Merkur injectors

     

    I already killed the starter and have a new one in. I had a leaky injector and fixed that.

    I have spark, my spark plugs smell like gas. So I assume my injectors are working.

    I have fuel pressure and it doesn't drop. so no more leaks.

    What I'm I missing? Please help. Thanks

    The car just shakes like it's about to start but god is teasing me.

    Any ideas?

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