JustinOlson
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Posts posted by JustinOlson
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Back to thinking about the coyote swap. Here is what others with alternator clearance issues have done. Seems like a slick way to get around the clearance issue.
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The DR series coilover uses a digressive piston. That is the only difference I can see from the BR series. Ideally we could get BC to produce the RM series which gets you an inverted strut similar to bilsteins.
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Looking forward to someone going balls deep on their 2*0z BC's like Paul Yaw of Injector Dynamics is!
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Anybody have thoughts on where to put the alternator?
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So the adjustment knobs just unscrew from the threaded top of the strut. This allows you to using the full range of camber adjustment.
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No good reason modify the sheet metal IMO. Just pull the adjuster nuts off. You can slip them back on to change the dampening with the camber fully adjusted out. I'll snap you a picture sometime.
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This is bottomed out adjustment wise against the lower spring mounting nuts. Rear camber is adjusted out all the way in the rear. The dampening adjustment knobs had to be taken off to adjust camber all the way out as they hit the factory sheetmetal. It still has negative camber even tho I've tried to adjust it all the way out so I'm going to have to go to adjustable rear lower control arms to correct this issue. I'm likely going to put some hyperco or eibach springs on these dampers at some point as an upgrade. They are of better quality when compared to swift springs and you can get a set of them for ~$240+shipping. I need to check if going to a shorter spring will allow me to have some height adjustment to lower the car further in the front. I'm not sure how much additional distance I have until the strut bottoms out in the weld on threaded collars.
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Here is my 240z with the extreme low coilovers adjusted all the way down. Note that my arches are mounted really high so it doesn't look as low as it is. I would recommend the extreme lows for a 240z as I could raise the car up 2 inches from where it currently is. Wheel/tires are 17x9.5 -19 offset 245/40-17
I have 7kg/6kg springs front/rear and the ride quality is nice and not too harsh for a daily driver.
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Rest In Peace brother. You were always great to guide us less knowledgeable car nuts in a proper direction. You are an inspiration to us all as you did what you loved for a living!
Best Regards,
Justin Olson
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I've been doing a lot of research on the coyote platform over on yellowbullet in terms of the strength of the block in turbo applications. I've been up in the air between doing a aluminum 5.3L LS motor and the coyote. Seems the LS is good for about 1200whp before head lift becomes and issue on the 4 bolt heads and people start cracking sleeves. At this point you move to an aftermarket 6 bolt block and heads. Aluminum block options in this realm are $$$. The alternative at this level is a coyote with a sleeved block and factory heads. A sleeved Coyote block is ~3k+the block itself which isn't cheap by any means. You do get to retain the factory heads that provide enough clamping force and flow. Its a bit unknown how reliable they are up at the 1200-1500whp level. I'm going to wait and watch the aftermarket sort out the issues and get the recipe down before I dip my toe into a turbo build. What I do plan on doing in the mean time is swapping a 2011-2012 F150 into my 240z. Not sure what transmission I'll back it with at this point.
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I didn't see any models of a older Ford 5.0L on Grab Cad.
https://grabcad.com/library/ford-5-0-coyote-engine
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I've been comparing 3D models of both the LS3 and the Coyote. From my initial analysis I am finding that the oil pan is too deep 6.8" deep from the rails or 9.95" from the crank center line. A shorter oil pan and pickup will be necessary. The overall width will fit between the strut towers. Factory exhaust manifolds likely wont work.Looks like the alternator will be a tight fit as its close to the frame rail. I need to do more modeling of the S30 engine bay to go further with this. The overall length is nearly identical to the LS3 with the Coyote has an advantage where the LS3 water pump protrudes.
Shorter oil pan options:
Moroso 20570 Depth: 4.5"
Champ CP4700 Depth: 4.5"
Canton 15-736 Depth: 5.0"
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Here is a rough Solidworks file of the weld on threaded collar from BC for the 240z.
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I'm having the sleeves welded on today. I hope to have the coilovers on the car this weekend. Dimensions for my 240z Extreme Low BC coilovers from the bottom of the sleeve to the top of the camber plate are as follows:
Maximum Length:
Front: 19-13/16"
Rear: 21-9/16"
Minimum Length:Front: 17-7/16"
Rear: 19-3/16"
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Looks good. Where are those headers from?
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Here is the info you need to know. The rotors used in the TTT kit are 11.75"
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The threads on the coilover body are M53x2.0. Cleared out my inbox btw.
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Received the BC coilovers in the "extreme low" variety for my 240z. Does anyone want the dimensions of the components before I have them installed next week? I can rough them out in Solidworks if there is an interest.
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I imagine it will protrude through the hood a bit. The plan was to pass the charge pipe above the valley and under the plenum to a bulkhead fitting through the firewall. This would allow a clean setup with plenty of room for twins. Still deciding what direction I want to go. I may just do a single with a air/air and an LS3 intake manifold.
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Here are some dimensions.
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Has anyone test fit a holley high ram intake manifold? I'm curious to use one with the throttle pointed back towards the firewall to an under dash mounted intercooler.
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Nice. You dry sumping it also to take advantage of that smaller diameter bell housing and get that drivetrain lower in the chassis?
I'm up in the air really if I keep the Tilton bell housing and starter. I need to still buy a flywheel that cost $625 and a TOB that is $400 new from Tilton to mate it up to an LS. I was thinking of swapping out the bell housing to something larger that can accommodate a 168 tooth flywheel so I can use a OEM starter and I wont have to worry about trans tunnel clearance with the starter.
BC Coilovers with T3 bolt in camber plates
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
What would you want to do this since the BC coilovers have bolt in camber plates already if you go with the standard 3 stud variety?