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Posts posted by JustinOlson

  1. This is bottomed out adjustment wise against the lower spring mounting nuts. Rear camber is adjusted out all the way in the rear. The dampening adjustment knobs had to be taken off to adjust camber all the way out as they hit the factory sheetmetal. It still has negative camber even tho I've tried to adjust it all the way out so I'm going to have to go to adjustable rear lower control arms to correct this issue. I'm likely going to put some hyperco or eibach springs on these dampers at some point as an upgrade. They are of better quality when compared to swift springs and you can get a set of them for ~$240+shipping. I need to check if going to a shorter spring will allow me to have some height adjustment to lower the car further in the front. I'm not sure how much additional distance I have until the strut bottoms out in the weld on threaded collars.  

  2. Here is my 240z with the extreme low coilovers adjusted all the way down. Note that my arches are mounted really high so it doesn't look as low as it is. I would recommend the extreme lows for a 240z as I could raise the car up 2 inches from where it currently is. Wheel/tires are 17x9.5 -19 offset 245/40-17


    I have 7kg/6kg springs front/rear and the ride quality is nice and not too harsh for a daily driver. 



  3. I've been doing a lot of research on the coyote platform over on yellowbullet in terms of the strength of the block in turbo applications. I've been up in the air between doing a aluminum 5.3L LS motor and the coyote. Seems the LS is good for about 1200whp before head lift becomes and issue on the 4 bolt heads and people start cracking sleeves. At this point you move to an aftermarket 6 bolt block and heads. Aluminum block options in this realm are $$$. The alternative at this level is a coyote with a sleeved block and factory heads. A sleeved Coyote block is ~3k+the block itself which isn't cheap by any means. You do get to retain the factory heads that provide enough clamping force and flow. Its a bit unknown how reliable they are up at the 1200-1500whp level. I'm going to wait and watch the aftermarket sort out the issues and get the recipe down before I dip my toe into a turbo build. What I do plan on doing in the mean time is swapping a 2011-2012 F150 into my 240z. Not sure what transmission I'll back it with at this point. 

  4. I've been comparing 3D models of both the LS3 and the Coyote. From my initial analysis I am finding that the oil pan is too deep 6.8" deep from the rails or 9.95" from the crank center line. A shorter oil pan and pickup will be necessary. The overall width will fit between the strut towers. Factory exhaust manifolds likely wont work.Looks like the alternator will be a tight fit as its close to the frame rail. I need to do more modeling of the S30 engine bay to go further with this. The overall length is nearly identical to the LS3 with the Coyote has an advantage where the LS3 water pump protrudes.


    Shorter oil pan options:

    Moroso 20570  Depth: 4.5"

    Champ CP4700  Depth: 4.5"

    Canton 15-736  Depth: 5.0"





  5. I'm having the sleeves welded on today. I hope to have the coilovers on the car this weekend. Dimensions for my 240z Extreme Low BC coilovers from the bottom of the sleeve to the top of the camber plate are as follows:


    Maximum Length:

    Front: 19-13/16"

    Rear: 21-9/16"


    Minimum Length:

    Front: 17-7/16"

    Rear: 19-3/16"

  6. Nice. You dry sumping it also to take advantage of that smaller diameter bell housing and get that drivetrain lower in the chassis?


    I'm up in the air really if I keep the Tilton bell housing and starter. I need to still buy a flywheel that cost $625 and a TOB that is $400 new from Tilton to mate it up to an LS. I was thinking of swapping out the bell housing to something larger that can accommodate a 168 tooth flywheel so I can use a OEM starter and I wont have to worry about trans tunnel clearance with the starter. 

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