v8260z
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Posts posted by v8260z
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Yeah, that's what I was thinking... You would never know it from the website though. As far as I know they are the only company (if they are a real company) that makes a 1 piece carbon fiber tail light panel for the 260-280z. I guess I took my chances and I may have lost my money. If that's the case their website address should be removed from the list here on Hybrid-Z.
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Has anyone had problems with the company Retro-spec? I purchased a carbon fiber taillight panel weeks ago and can't get anyone to answer the phone. They did reply to 2 emails and keep giving me the run around on the shipping date. The last reply said they manufacture in Mexico...WTF? I hope I'm not getting ripped on my $336 purchase!
Here is a copy of their last reply
Hi sean , an apology we had some transportation logistic troubles , we manufacture in mexico, we sent parts ounce time for week , your part should be shipped tomorrow saturday in the night or monday earlier.
Trust me your will glad and happy with your part , later ill send you pictures of your part.
thanks/Edson/Retro-spec team
----- Original Message ----
From: Sean Hyma
Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 10:46:12 AM
Subject: Item #0000001200
Can You PLEASE reply with an update for my order of the 280z tail light panel. All I have is a receipt for payment of $336.99 to you. The last time we spoke you needed 2 days to complete the panel. Has the item shipped yet? Please respond!!! Thank You...
SEAN HYMA
811 MISSISSIPPI ST.
SOUTH HOUSTON, TEXAS
77587
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I had a john's cars kit in mine but replaced the mounts with a motor plate, and I love it . You can set the motor where ever you choose ,also got a little more torque to the rear wheels.
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Don't have the address but directions are as follows: Take beltway north to 90 east, get off at the Crosby exit and hang a left at the light, go down about 1.5 miles and hang a left , there is a sign for the shop on the right side of the main drag 1/4-1/2mile before you hang that left . You can see the small shop from the main street as you hang that left , it's about fifty yards down on the right. Those directions are coming from La Porte.
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Anyone in Houston needing exhaust work should check out FMG EXHAUST in Crosby, Texas they do great work and have done many race car systems. Nice guys and fair prices!
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I ve got the same mufflers in a dual cofiguration on a custom 3" system and I'd have to say they are louder than I wanted. The mufflers are about 2.5-3' after the headers with tail pipe out the back . I wanted ultraflows but no ground clearance. It sounds like open headers down the track. I recommend placing that muffler as far back in the system as possible to anyone who might consider using it.
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Has anyone had problems with factory gauges reading low as battery voltage drops? (oil, water)
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I'm on the South/Southwest side.
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Here for 8 years now. Car keeps getting faster. South/Southwest.
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I run a Ron Davis 24" x 19" double pass with a Aerospace Components pump, 16" electric fan (no shroud) with a 3/4" hole flow restrictor instead of a thermostat on 11to1 compression without a problem. The part number is 24193 and is $210 for the single pass version and $260 for the double pass.Their phone# is 623-877-5000 . They will build you whatever you like for a very good price . They told me the double pass is worth about 10-15 degrees cooler water temp. Both are 2- 1" core radiators.
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Your problem is in the covertor stall speed.With my experiences , until you buy a 10" convertor your going to have this problem.My 9" Continental drops from 1050rpm idle to 850rpm in drive. I suggest not drilling the holes in the carb to solve this problems. The holes are drilled for air/ fuel tuneing at idle.
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I run the Aerospace Components waterpump on the street with no problems.The car ran .05 faster right off the bat at the track.Go for it!
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Sorry about the delay in response time guys. I do thank all of you for the input and have thought about trying the reservoir for more volume but at 10in. of vacuum I dont think volume will totally solve my problem.Has anyone tried going to a Dodge style manual brake MC ? This is common on many drag cars with monster cams. My cam specs.out at 246/246 at.050 with a 108deg. lobe separation angle.Where can you buy a electric vacuum pump?
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My car has a long duration cam and I think it killed my power brakes ! Does anyone know of an easy fix? The pedal is rock hard but the effort is extreme to stop the car. The system is stock 74'. Is there a manual system out there so that I could eliminate the booster completly? The car is drag raced and street driven on weekends. Any input would be great....
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you could also buy a motor and mid plate from Jegs or Summit and set the motor as far back or forward as you desire . I have the johns cars kit and I am not impressed with it . In fact my engine is tearing the poorly designed drivers side motor mount.
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I am interested in what my 260z is worth.Any input would be greatly valued. It's an early 260 with the Johns Cars kit.355 chevy,sportsman heads with bowl work,vic. jr. CNC intake, 750double pumper, harland sharp rockers,custom ground hyd. roller (schneider cams),speed-pro pistons with 1/16" plasma moly rings , balanced bottom end,Aerospace water pump, custom aluminum double pass radiator, fabricated aluminum valve covers (Doug Lee),MSD dual pick-up dist,timing computer,blaster,two step,rpm activated switch,and shift light,turbo350 with 9" Continental convertor, 10-bolt rear with c-clip eliminators,Moser axles,Strange spool,Richmond 4.10 gears,Morrison ladder bars,coil springs and diagonal link, custom built frame rails from front suspension to the rear of the car, 8-point roll bar, custom mini tubs, custom floor Raised 2", 8 gal. cell, mini starter, Moroso battery box, Holly blue pump, Centerline Warriors 15-10,15-4,Hoosier Quick times, RCI buckets with 5-point harnesses, Auto pal headlights, Hurst promatic, Quick Car switch panel, Lokar throttle cable and trans. flex tube , lexan side and rear windows , full length 1 3/4" headers with FMG custom 3" exhaust with Dynomax race magnums, Moroso breather tank with XRP fttings. The car is primer grey and driven on the street with the help of antique registration. I have been working on the car for about 8 years and from the list of parts I would have had to be rich to do it any sooner.Car has run a best et of 10.76 at 125.05 at Houston raceway park.Dont Have a way to post pics but can forward a few bad low light shots .
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The block has not been decked and the piston part is #7070p if I am not mistaken.this yielded a 11.2 comp. ratio, might be a bit lower with the fel-pro perma-torque gaskets.I was not that concerned with the exact compression ratio of the engine at the time of building (close to 8 years ago). The car is now getting street use again after 4 years of being trailerd' to the track. I drove it for 4 years prior on the street as my primary vehicle.It had SR torquers on it w/76cc chambers for the first five years. future plans are a 6" rod 406 mech roller with AFR 210s and an internally balanced crank. I would love to have a 9sec. ride on the street. I could do it with NOS but I WONT ever run it on any engine I build. I would rather build the engine to run the number.
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This is the current set up of my 260: 2-bolt 350 .030 over,Speed pro .100 dome hypereutectic pistons with 1/8" plasma moly rings, stock rods and crank with ARP 190,000psi. bolts,balanced bottom end, 8" factory balancer. top end: Holley 750 d.p. with stub stack and integrated cold air box fed by glass cowl hood, Holley Contender idle to 7200 intake, this manifold is great for a street driven car by the way, have ran a sportsman and an rpm but prefer the Contender due to its larger ports, Sportsman 64cc angle plug heads with minor bowl work, custom ground Schneider hyd. roller cam: .480 .480 246 246 at .050" on a 108 center line installed straight up. (low lift for longevity on the street), Speed Pro lifters and pushrods, melling hi-volume oil pump, Aerospace Components electric water pump,Holley blue pump set at 7.5 psi, aluminum crank pulley to turn low mount alternator, MSD nascar distributor,6al box, timing computer w/2 degree retard at 6000 rpm controled by rpm activated switch, two step rev limiter 3000 and 7000 rpm (converter is too tight to use the 3000 off the line), MSD shift light set at 6000 rpm. Can anyone tell that I am a firm believer in MSD's products? Turbo 350, tci 10" converter, 10 bolt chevy rear narrowed, Richmond 4.10s, Strange spool, Mosier axles, c-clip eliminators,and Red Line synthetic diff. lube. Amsoil synthetic engine oil and filter. 1 3/4" tube full length block hugger headers with 9" collector ext. Best e.t. was on Exxon 108 leaded race gas, about 60 degree outside temp, 140 to 150 engine temp. Sorry if I bored anyone, but if anyone has questions about any other specs of the car let me know !
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Competition Products in Wisconsin sells World Products SR torquers for 425 to 450 a set complete. I ran these heads on my car for five years with no complaints. They kill the double humps and the late 80s in all aspects. You also have options on chamber sizes and dont have to settle for the 30 year old technology that you would have to spend close to, or more than that amount on to set up a reliable a pair of heads. After all that money spent you've still got junk yard heads that aren't near as durable and wont build as much power as the SR's.For 100 t 125 more you could get the Sportsmans. they are usually a couple hundred cheaper than JEGS on heads and alot of other parts ,and JEGS is usually tough to beat on prices.
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I don't run a sway bar on my car and it did aid in traction. It's been five years since i removed it and i cant remember how much of an improvement it made at the track. I also had the stock open diff. under the car with Hoosier Quick Time tires and 3.70 gears. The best pass was 11.70s with that setup
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Thanks for the info guys.To answer a few questions from the previous posts; the pinion angle is set at -1 degree. It's an early 260z.I have two or three pics of my frame and suspension. I am running the stock springs but I had to cut them to get the desired ride height (about 3 coils).I do currently race the car at H.R.P. and as of yesterday started driving the car on the street again.I can drive the car down the track just about with one finger.If anyone is interested in the best pass to date: 10.764 at 125.05 mph with a 1.543 60ft. foot stalling it to 1900rpm .
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Does anyone know of a front spring that is softer than the factory spring that can be used for drag racing (better weight transfer).The car has a custom fabbed frame,ladder bars,coil-over rear suspension,and weighs 2500# with driver. If anyone has any info it would be great. THANKS
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Does anyone know of a front spring that is softer than the factory spring that can be used for drag racing (better weight transfer).The car has a custom fabbed frame,ladder bars,coil-over rear suspension,and weighs 2500# with driver. If anyone has any info it would be great. THANKS
DRAG 260Z 5-lug options. Help!!!!
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
I 've read about the Modern Motorsports and the ArizonaZ front 5-lug conversions, BUT I want to stay with the lightest rotor possible. My question is Has anyone converted to the early 300zx 5-lug hub and redrilled the solid rotor from a early 260z to mount it to the 300zx hub? Is the offset the same on the 300zx hub? Same bearings and seals used? Neither Modern or Arizona offer 5-lug hubs with mounting for the original solid light weight rotor. My z will be coming out of the body shop in a couple weeks and I'd like to update the wheels from modified 4-lug Centerline Warriors to the new Billet Specialties drag race wheels that are only available in 5-lug patterns. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!! I'm sure It's been covered somewhere here before but I cant find any info on this particular swap!!!