[Arizona ZCar Stainless Steel Valves - Help...]

When he was done with it he ended up using the OS valve seats, the stock size intake, and machined the OS exhaust down to be only 1mm bigger than stock. He said he does not like the OS valves from his testing.

Hope this helps

Jeff

 

Let me get this straight. Are you saying you've got oversized valve seats with standard size valves....? How does this work?

Cheers

[Small port heads.]

The late model Aussie E88 head was found on the R30 Skyline L24E engine. I had one of these on my L28 for a while.

 

How come you took it off out of interest? I bought a complete motor and went to do up the head (N42) and found out that it was too badly corroded. Needed a head badly so just pulled the first one I saw. Was quite suprised that it turned out to be something like a small chambered P90 of sorts!

 

The chambers are very similar to the Y70 head but larger. The intakes are 42mm's and the exhausts are 35mm's. The intake ports measure 34mm's in diameter. The E88 head is very similar to the Aussie N47 L24E head. The N47 and Y70 heads have round exhaust ports with liners.

 

The O5L head ( I have one of these too) has 28mm intake ports, smaller than the 30mm Y70 ones. The O5L has square exhaust ports.

 

Tiny intake ports on those then! If anyone wants to try out one of those bad boys my mate has an 05L for sale here in Australia.

[Small port heads.]

:eek:Pictures?

 

I wish I had pics. I have seen some floating around before though. They seem to be a good head. I think 40cc combustion chamber IIRC.

[Small port heads.]

ozconnection,

 

I have a late model E88 head which appears to have the same combustion chamber as your Y70 head. Hmm, I know it has smaller valves but didn't measure the intake ports to see if they are as small as the Y70. I wonder if they are?

Also I imagine the 05L head would also be small in port size like the Y70 ?

 

Cheers

[Driveline vibration]

No I have had this problem ever since I have had the car, and that involves a few tyre changes as well.

 

Im also leaning towards a U joint, the only thing that makes me skeptical is that the mechanic I took it to is a zed guru and knows his stuff. He was actually a bit baffled, as the U joints felt fine. OH well, I have some new Uni's laying around so I will try putting them in and see how I go.

[Driveline vibration]

I have a bizzare vibration and sound coming from my rear end somewhere. Its a constant "thunk-thunk-thunk" that comes from just behind my shoulder and gets louder as the wheels turn faster. I have replaced my diff mount (which did fix the lound clunk sound that I used to get when taking off or slowing down) and have also replaced the wheel bearing on the side where the sound seemed to be coming from.

 

Even if I cruise in neutral the sound and vibration are still there. I took it to a mechanic and he said the u joints seemed fine. Could it be unbalanced halfshafts or driveshaft? Could the u joints appear fine but really be screwed? Is it worthwhile to go to a junkyard and pull form halfshafts to see if they are any better than mine ?

 

Then engine is the standard L series as well with an R200 diff.

 

Cheers

Ray

[Need help finding a source for a rb30 bottom]

 

If an L28ET appears on my doorstep one day' date=' I will happily send an RB30E to the reply address *hint hint*[/quote']

 

Ditto Will send you RB30 blocks for L28 turbo gear

[Wangan Midnight]

There are a whole bunch of wangan midnight movies. I remember going down to the video store once and there were at least five IIRC.

 

I'm not sure which one was posted for d/l, but the best one IMHO is the first one (I think..) which has the opening scene of the R33 GTR screaming along the freeway. Some of the others are a bit puss, Except of course for the fact they have a Z

[Why I hate Yahoo Auction Japan...]

When I was in japan I used to buy stuff off yahoo auctions and send it all over the place. Its next to impossible to do unless you have someone in the country who can get by in japanese, or through a pseudo organization that will bid on items for you and then charge you a percentage(I've seen a couple of these guys).

 

Ray

[still no start 1982 280zx turbo]

Definately get an injector pulsar.

Another tip, unlug all our spark plugs and put a portable fluro light just under the plug holes, and then turn your engine over. You should see fuel being spat out. If you see no fuel then your injectors are not firing.

 

Also, get some starter fluid (not sure what they call it in the states, but its the stuffin a pressurised can you use to squirt into your intake to get it to start first thing in the morning). Squirt this stuff into the intake while you have someone crank it over. It should start/sputter/something. If it doesnt, check your timing.

 

I wouldnt rely on being able to hear the injectors click just by standing back and turning the engine. The L series can be quite noisy. Like I said previously, use a long screwdriver.

 

I went through this whole ordeal with an L24 ECU. From looking at your diagram it seems your ECU/Wiring is more complex. Can someone confirm that these ECU's use a earth switch from the coil/distributor to the ECU to switch the Injectors ? If this is the case find out where the wire goes to the ECU. Stick a testing pen on this wire , and clip it onto a + source. It should flicker.

If it doesnt, it isnt being switched and injectors will never open.

 

Also, pull one of the boots off an injector connector and make sure that both the connectors have power going to them. If they don't, trace the lines back...

 

And you shouldnt need the condensor. If you have wires burning up it sounds like you could have a short...wires should not burn up.

 

And yes, make sure you have fresh fuel. You will be suprised how much of a difference it can make.

 

Sorry I cant be more specific, but like I said, I am not throughly familiar with your type of ECU (and you would be suprised how often/how much they changed wiring between year models).

 

Ray

[Tutorial: SR Gearbox onto L-series engine]

Just wondering what ratios were used in those boxes? Longer I'm assuming...

 

It sounds kind of similar to the FJ box swap.

[no start]

Im more familiar with NA Wiring, but I imagine it would be similar to turbo (please someone correct me If im wrong).

 

Make sure that the injectors are not firing. Grab a long screwdriver and put the head up against the injector and your ear to the handle, you should hear it clicking as you turn the engine over (oh unplug your leads and/or your fuel pump). If you cant and you are getting power to the injectors, and the injectors (and ecu) have been replaced, then check the earth switch which should be a single wire from the coil to the ECU. When cranking the engine this should earth in a constant on/off/on/off fashion. Possibly some residual water has turned a connecting surface a wee bit rusty ??

 

 

My son has a 1982 280zx turbo. When he bought it it had a rough idle but ran ok. Nothing was done to the car as it was a daily driver and he continued using it as such. A few months later it started running rough' date=' with some backfire and no power. Hetook it to a repair shop where they got running but told him he needed a new injection harness. He drove the car until he went thru a deep puddle and it died. Same repair shop got it running but it ran like crap. Same as above. I know have and have done the following:

 

Replaced the injectors, rebuilt another fi harness with new connectors, new rotor and new dist cap. I have cleaned all the connections and replacrd some of the connectors.

 

After all was done car started up with no problem. It still had the rough ydle but revved up with no problems. After checking everything including repairing of 2 of the new connectors the thing ran ok. I took it for a test drive, everything was looking good until I came off the freeway. The car died and hasn't started since.

 

I have spark, I have good fuel flow but it appears as if the injectors aren't firing. There is power to the injectors, in fact both sides of the injector have power when the key is on but they don't appear to be firing. I tried changing the brain but that didn't do any good. So I am stumped.

 

Where do I go from here.

 

By the way is the spade on the front of the distributor for a ground?

 

Thanks in advance

 

az240z[/quote']

[Strange L6 head find]

Looks like an E88 skyline head

[280ZX Turbo Cam Specs]

Hi All' date='

 

Just to let everyone know, I have just acquired an F54 block, P90 head and turbo inlet masnifold for AU$640.00 delivered to my door.

 

 

[/quote']

 

Was that from the states ?

[ENGINE mount question]

Hey Simon, How hard was making the mounts for the VG30DET? Did you get it with a G/B and were there any clearance issues ? How hard is it to work on the engine once you have it in there? (i.e tight tight spaces..)

 

I have looked around and cant find many prices for them...how much did you pay for your if you dont mind me asknig.

 

Cheers

[What turbo do you have on your L?]

Stock turbo manifold sorry.

 

Cool, should go for a cruise when I figure out how to get mine started

[DOHC head... more progress...]

If you can find a way to produce these heads, you are going to be rich!

 

If you had them cast maybe...

Wouldnt like to think about how time goes into them and subsequently how much they would cost.

[What turbo do you have on your L?]

Heh no, I've imported alot of turbo engine parts. The thing just about isn't a l28e anymore (only bits left are the block, crank, rods and pistons thats about it)

 

I probably wasnt very clear..I meant are you using a standard TURBO exhaust manifold

[What turbo do you have on your L?]

hey akeizm, are you using a standard L series exhaust manifold?

[?'s on L28e swap into 260z]

I've just done the exact thing you are considering. As far as the fuel tank goes, Im have heard you can use a later model fuel tank, but dont hold me to that though. I couldnt use a later model fuel tank as we never got EFI equipped 280s in OZ. You can always just make an external surge tank, which actually you can squeeze in next to the std electric pump at the back and use it in combo with a bosch type roller pump.

[Holy balls. looks like someone is actually doing it! DOHC]

Looks to me that the head bolts are installed.

 

lol, maybe I should look a little closer next time

[Holy balls. looks like someone is actually doing it! DOHC]

Notice how there is no headbolts or anything else on the head. I wonder if it is nearing the end or just at the beginning. Best of luck to him anyway, surely not a small job.

[electricial problem]

I dont have power to my fuel pump and once the wires go into the body I dont know where to look. I have checked the fuses inside and the fuesable links and they are good. Are ther any relays or anything I shoul be looking for?

Thanks for the help! 77 280z

ktmrider

 

Underneath your passenger seat (Drivers seat on my RHD) there should be two connectors. One of them will have a green wire next to a blue/yellow(or blue and something). The green wire is power for your pump. My pump is external, so the wire comes down at the back near the tank and is clearly visible.

 

The above information is correct for a 76 260z, im assuming it would be the same for your car, but double check.

[Rb30]

. Darius is proof that you dont need big turbos to go very very fast...

 

Your 100% correct, if anything Darius is proof that you need a big blower...

[Supra 2JZ-GTE swap into 240Z (pics)]

Depends which sump arrangement you have. Different 1JZs have different sumps depending on the car they came from. If the sump isnt right, you can just get one from another model.