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HybridZ

LS1 240Z

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Posts posted by LS1 240Z

  1. finally another good alternative to the gay T56

     

    the transmissions have always been able to bolt up, and the TCI flexplate has provisions for both early and later torque converters. guys have been putting th350s and th400s behind LSx motors for the past 9 years or so. the biggest part of that article was where they had the flywheel for manuals that works. that there is worth looking into more.

  2. there are mixed opinons.. but it all depends on what you are doing. i favor the iron block motors, they are only about 60-70lbs heavier, and bunches cheaper.

     

    if you want something that has a bit of pep and you arent shooting for over 450rwhp get a 5.3 truck motor, you can get a cast iron block one for $600-1000 complete. aluminum blocked 5.3s are fairly common to because they were in all V8 trail blazer style suvs, but they will be more. if you are shooting for 450+ rwhp id go with a 6.0 LQ4 truck motor, you can find them for $800-2000 complete. with some $800 factory heads and a big cam through a stick will put down 550rwhp..

     

    its all about what you want to do with your car.

  3. well getting a true LS9 would be expensive and probably have a hard time finding one even if you wanted to pay 20k for the motor.

     

    now soon as someone wreckes a new CTS-V that has the same 6.2L motor with the same blower on it... youll be able to pick up that motor pretty cheap.

     

    another option is the northstar 4.4L that has the same blower on the top of it. that would be a road race screamer right there...

  4. the motors need varing fuel pressure to run unless you have return lines and a regulator.

     

    you have 3 things to make a motor run.. fuel, spark and compression. you verify that you have the RIGHT fuel presure at the rail, injectors firing? getting spark? is it on time? there are tons of things you need to check... first one is to put a MAP sensor in the car, thats probably the main reason why its not running, car will run without a MAF, but not without a MAP

  5. hmm.. so i think ill get that digital protractor and while it looks like getting that JD2 tube notcher would be pretty easy, that program for tube coping calculating looks like it would be awesome.. just find your angle. put it, print it out, cut it with a bandsaw and use a grinder on it.

     

    thanks a lot for your guys help

  6. so i had a cage bent up for my datsun. i have to notch all my tubing so that i can tack it in now. it has been suggested to use a hole saw and a sanding drum. also the harbor freight notcher has been brought up. the guy who bent my cage is a professional and he showed me how he did it with a band saw.. i was wondering what people here have had success with and if there are any tips you guys have.

     

    :mparty:

  7. if you are just going for speed id suggest LSx swap.

     

    but i can understand wanting to do something diffrent. and you seem to really like the Mopar turbo 4s. so why not do it? have something diffrent than anyone else. the SRT4 neons can be quick with minimal mods, so putting it in a lighter and better platform would net even quicker times. look for a complete wrecked SRT4, put the dash, brakes, wheels, interior, seats motor, radiator, intercooler etc into the 240Z, it would be a really cool swap and unique when you are done (which is the whole purpose of doing a swap)

  8. a few things.. first off an 5.3 is not an LQ4. LQ4s are 6.0s, next the LSx motors only share the same trans bolt pattern with the older SBCs (including LT1/4), also do not buy a painless harness... they are nothing but a pain in the ass, i have one for my LT1 swapped car and it was not worth a dollar. just use a stock wiring harness. just put it on there unchanged and you can come back and mess with trimming off wires you dont want/need later, pretty much just have to get power to it and thats all.

  9. There are ET calculators on-line, like http://www.teamenvy.com/battlecalc.htm

    No clue how accurate they really are. They don't take transmission, rear gear or driver ability into consideration.

     

    ha. not even remotely acurate. with my 3600 lb camaro to run an 11.7 according to that calcuator i have 445rwhp. if that was true id have some rwhp record for a cam/header/stall camaro haha. my car puts out about 390rwhp and the thing says it only would run a 12.1, but ive ran it a 11.7.. so dont belive that thing AT ALL

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