ktm

I'll scan the maps tomorrow. I looked at the HY35 compressor map and it flows about 7+ lbs of air more than my T03/04E 50 trim. Also, are your numbers on a Mustang or Dynojet. Remember that mine are on a Mustang, which are typically 10 to 15% lower than a Dynojet. Making that adjustment, that puts me around 319 ft-lbs. Still, you can't compare dynos. I do not think I have all that much left on the table. My fueling can be optimized a little bit as can my timing, but I think I only have maybe 10 to 20 ft-lbs I am losing. It's my understanding through reading that AFR's only have a minor impact on power; it's timing that really matters. Since these runs, I have put a 50/50 blend of 100 octane and 91 octane to ward off detonation.

My EMS can do data logging and it can also support a wideband O2 sensor. I know there is more in the car, but like you said, I went for fuel only at this time. I will be constantly tuning her, but this is not bad for a first run.

Editted to include specs. Boost is 15 psi.

....all on a Mustang dyno. I am PIG rich (average AFR 10.6), but I kept pinging at 4000-4200 at 12 to 12.5 AFR. I only spent two hours getting an initial tune, but now I am not pinging, AFR curve is flat, and I've identified a few issues I need to sort out (like wastegate puck cracking open). Still, I'll take the numbers. L28ET T03/04E 15 psi Supra 440cc injectors LS-1 coils on plugs Wolf EMS

Since I am feeling generous today, I'll hold on the search comment. How about if I use 280z's 5-speed transmission? Will it bolt to the L28ET engine and then can I use the driveshaft which I have now and stock transmission mounts? Yes. Are the 280z'z 5-speed and the 280zx na's 5 speeds trannies the same? No. The only significant difference in the gearing.

Headlights operate differently than the rest of the lighting system. The headlights switch to ground instead of switching power. Make sure that you've got good grounds (assuming you already checked the lights).Check fuses and your combo switch.

The two orange wires are connected to the fusible link, which is connected to the WHITE wire which provides power to the fuse box. You can hook up the white wire directly to the starter as a test, but you should really run either a fusible link or inline fuse on that connection.

A fried solenoid should not affect your entire electrical system. The solenoid is only engaged (powered) when the key is turned to the START position. When the key is in the ON position, the little wire (spade connector) that connects to the solenoid does not have power. There should be two fusible links on the car in the engine bay. One from the start and the other from the alternator. A PO removed the one from the alternator on my car (1972 240z), but I had the one from the starter. The fusible links are in-line with the white/red wire and the white wire. If you have NO power whatsoever, then something is fried. Break out the multimeter and start testing your wires. You checked the fuses, but have you checked continuity across the fuses? I hate the glass fuses because sometimes they burn under the metal cap. Given your symptoms, something is up with the WHITE wire that comes from the starter. This is the same wire that the fusible link is on. This wire provides power to your fuse box. If that fusible link is fried, then you will not have any power. In the following picture, you can see how all the wires connect to the starter. The fusible link in the picture is connected to the two orange wires connected to the same point where the positive battery cable is connected (pic is an old one before my rebuild - I just had to say that).

Happy birthday!

I had my car up on jacks while I installed a Kaminari front air dam, polished the wheels, etc. I got the air dam on, but had to quickly put my wheels back on the car and move it out of my garage and onto the street. After working on it for 2 years the last thing I want to have happen is to lose it in a fire.

Very good point about the fuel cut. I set my rev limiter on my Wolf system for both fuel and ignition. I'll change that right away.

"Well I forgot how the negative went back together so I bolted the negative from the battery back to the bolt that holds the starter to the bell housing to the engine, was this inccorect?" Yes. Check your fuses. Check your fusible links. There should be two on a 240z in the engine bay, one from the starter and the other from the alternator. If your fuses and fusible links are fine, check to see if the wire that connects to the solenoid is getting power when the key is turned to the START position. It is the spade connector. If you have power at that wire and power in your battery, sounds like the starter is fried.

My EMS has the ability to log and output on quite a few channels. Currently, I have hooked up the stock knock sensor (L28ET) to the EMS. Upon receiving a signal, it pulls to ground and an LED lights up. The light works as intended when I put the threshold value to 0 volts. In order for this to work correctly, though, I need the correct knock sensor peak output voltage. Does anyone have any idea? A search on the 'net indicated that some sensors output around 1 volt. What about our knock sensor? Cheers, Bo

Was it the ground wire or the battery sense wire? I had something similar happen. I COMPLETELY cooked the battery sense wire. I mean there was NO insulation left on it from the plug all the way to where it hooked up to the power wire from the battery (at the starter).

Not really. I have a spreadsheet that has done the conversion for me (a calculator is just as handy). It is actually quite easy as it is scalable. It is based on the MAP sensor voltage, so I can set my own resolution. My RPM scale is adjustable as well, I just set it at 1000 rpm intervals so that the entire range is shown on the screen. Thank you for the help.

Thanks Tim. Anyone else?

I am seeking opinions on my timing map. I am heading into the dyno in a few weeks, but I developed a 'driveable' map based on some street tuning I've done with a wideband and reading a lot of map sharing threads in the MS forum. My mods are as follows: Wolf EMS, LS1 coil on plugs, T03/04E 50 trim turbo, 440cc injectors, I/C My timing map is based on Datman's, Cygnus', Jkurgz, and Mobythevan's maps. The y-axis is in Load percentage. The engine is at 0 boost/vacuum at 36%; 5 psi is 50%; I am at full boost (15 psi) at 73%ish percent. I should mention that this is NOT my current map, but my latest revision. My current map is VERY conservative. I am at 21 degrees at 15 psi, 27ish degrees at 0 psi. Wolf will pull timing on engine temp and intake air temp. I am pulling 2 degrees above 195 degrees on engine temp and 2 degrees above 50 degrees C intake air temp. Thanks.