JK_DC
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Posts posted by JK_DC
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My Crane manual states the negative coil wire may control fuel injection. Double check the connections from the distributor. I used my module so I used OE wiring to the coil.
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Out of the vac line on the regulator? There shoudn't be any fuel coming out. That is one of the signs of a bad FPR. Buy a cheap adjustable regulator, change the spark plugs and oil and retry starting it.
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I think it is length difference. Aren't all the slave cylinders the same? I would go with the early style, but it would be a good idea to ask the seller just in case.
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The problem with the racing oils is the reduced detergents in them. Red Line's racing oil doesn't have any at all!! A diesel oil should have zinc in it and on Red Line's website it stated that their diesel oil has twice the detergents of their regular oil. I think I would rather have too much detergents than not enough because from what I read the extra detergents main side effect is that it may increase the chances of plug fouling. I would rather change plugs than worry about increased sludge in the engine.
I could not find a sheet on red line's regular synthetic, but it did say that they met diesel engine requirements which could mean there is zinc in it. The diesel oil does have zinc as the material safety data sheet on the site shows .12% zinc. I will try to e-mail them on the regular synthetic to see if there is any added zinc, but it may not from the sounds of the regulations involved. A diesel oil is street legal and contains zinc so go figure.
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http://carfiche.com/manuals020/cars/
That is a link to the service manual for an 82, it should be close. Has data on everything. If it doesn't have a download link you have to try again the following hour. Yeah you need an ohm meter, the resistance should decrease as it warms up. Page EF&EC-56.
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Did you check the cylinder head temp sensor or water temp sensor? It could be telling the ECU that it is still cold and making the mixture too rich at operating temp.
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I tightened them to .008 and .010 today and it sounds a lot better. There is still valve noise but it isn't excessive, sounds a little noisier than the stock cam did. I was able to turn the idle down to 800, before it didn't like it less than 1000. The reason I said it looked flat was because there was an 1/8" of metal less on some of the lobes and it was rougher when sliding my finger across them. Not sure of the terminology, but the metal on the lobe was visibly lower than the metal surrounding the lobe on the outside. But like you said I'll run it until I run into problems or until I want to upgrade to a stage 3 cam.
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okay...thanks for the info. I have been searching zcar also and they say about the same thing. Since it was pretty quiet and then got really obnoxious clicking I thought it was far off. I seem to remember when I first got the Z it was clicking then got a valve adjust at the dealer and the clicking went away. I guess they did it too tight. It sounded like a diesel engine it was so bad. It was worse with the windows up. I think I have a little valve slap at stock settings. I will go .002 tighter and leave it at that. Can the lobes wear with too little clearance? Or is that from the rockers? The mechanic reused them on the rebuild even though I wanted new ones- 15,000-20,000 miles on them. I've always used synthetic oil and changed it regularly so it shouldn't wear so much in 30,000 miles. What are the symptoms from a burnt valve? This is the first adjustment in 30,000 miles on a rebuilt head so it has been too tight for awhile. It has been running fine, revs easily to 7k in 1st and 6.5k in 2nd.
Thanks
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I am not sure what camshaft I have and I am way overdue on a valve adjustment. I have a performance cam so I don't think stock settings will work. The markings on the cam are J23 EP40 C2. My 1 and 2 lobes are worn pretty good and the clearances were maybe .002 cold on those, not sure if that will wear it though. I tried stock settings but it sounded terrible so I'm wondering if anyone knows if those numbers/letters mean anything or at least list the different manufacturers so I can contact them. I looked at schneider and isky, but don't see those #'s listed.
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Different flow rates, turbos being higher. Otherwise the same. I think it is 280cc on the turbo and 200 cc on the nonturbo.
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Same setup as above. I have a 4.38 LSD rear with a 79 5 speed so it revs really easy. Once I get a lightweight flywheel in there I may need to hook up my rev limiter it will be so quick. You really can't rev past 4k? You might have a bad ignition module or something if that is the case.
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It should rev way past 4K. Mine revved fine to 7K in 1st with the stock AFM. Did they mean that the flap on the NA is fully open at 4K and isn't on the turbo AFM? That is a possibility and might meter fuel more accurately to a higher RPM since there would be less pressure on the flap at a given RPM.
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I just did the swap a few weeks ago. You just have to swap the NA circuit board, connector and temperature sensor to the Turbo housing. You don't pull off the connector like it says. Desolder and then resolder in the turbo housing. If your AFM to TB boot is stiff it probably won't stretch over the housing. You can either buy a 3" 45 degree silicone elbow and alter the mounting of the AFM a little and cut the bungs into it or get a good used pliable boot. I didn't notice any power from the swap and I have a stage 2 cam, port and polish, 60 mm TB. I hope to get more power when I port the intake, that is where the restriction is.
If you do it you might want to get a used NA and turbo AFM so you can have your current one and not trash it. You shoukd be able to get both for under $100 shipped. Make sure the #'s are the same though on the NA AFM housings so it will work correctly.
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new msd and now injectors wont fire?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted