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Cethern

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Posts posted by Cethern

  1. OPERATION & CARE / FINAL SETUP

    SETTING THE PRE-CHARGE

    Once the Accusump™ is mounted and the plumbing installed take some time to set the Accusump's precharge.

    Improper pre-charge can result in many problems. To ensure your Accusump™ will work correctly follow

    the steps listed here.

    With the valve in the open position (electric units energized) and the engine not running; pressurize the

    Accusump™ to 60 psi. This will ensure all the oil is out of the unit and the piston is all the way to the oil end. While

    the Accusump™ is pressurized to 60 psi check all the fittings (gauges and lines) for leaks. Apply soapy water to each

    area and check for bubbles. If possible, wait overnight to ensure there is no loss of pressure. For the unit to operate

    correctly there cannot be any leaks in the air side. Temperature change will affect pressure.

    Once you are sure there are no leaks, bleed down the air pre-charge to between 7 and 10 psi. Now when you

    start the engine and open or energize the valve, the pressure in the air side of the Accusump™ should increase to

    approximately that of your engine oil pressure. After you close the valve and shut your engine off, check your oil

    level. Add oil as required to compensate for the oil being held in the Accusump™.

    Under normal conditions the pre-charge should not need resetting after the initial set up. However, if a leak occurs

    or if the unit's pre-charge seems to have changed you may need to reset your pre-charge to ensure your Accusump™

    performs correctly. To reset your pre-charge, set the valve to the open position (electric units energized) while the

    engine is not running; and pressurize the Accusump™ to 60 psi. Next bleed down the air pre-charge to between 7

    and 10 psi.

    Under no circumstances should the safety valve be removed, as this will void the warranty. If oil leaks from the

    safety valve, be sure that it is sealed with Teflon tape and tightened; the safety valve is hand tight when delivered and

    requires final tightening after installation of the Accusump™ valve. If oil still leaks from the safety valve, there is a

    problem in the installation. These valves are very reliable and are set to open at 175 PSI, which is far above the

    pressure the unit would see if installed correctly.

  2. I'm running in BSP right now and I have a long way to go yet with car and the nut behind the wheel. So far I have 200lbs Quickor spings in the front and a ST front bar along with some poly bushings the back so far is still stock and to top it all off the car still has the Automatic:rolleyesg.

     

    The motor is stock for now I have a few parts waitting to go on which will happen when the 5sp goes in.

    In BSP I can not upgrade the brakes to the 4x4 or do a rear disc setup I can change the rotors though. I also can not use the weld in camber plates. I'm going to have to give Mr Coffey a call and talk with him about his coilover setup and maybe a few ideas on set up.

     

    The pic's are from my first Auto-x this year down in the Springs.

     

    Cethern

    070527-SCCA-AX--033_thumb.jpg

    070527-SCCA-AX--130_thumb.jpg

  3. Daniel

    Stop by Ontrack Performance here in Denver they are off Santa Fe and Dartmouth. I think their address will show South Platte & Dartmouth.

    All so there is Peterson Fluid Systems here in Denver.

     

    Eric

  4. I have one of Paulo's wings the bigger of the two. I got it put on before the blizzard here in Denver so I have not gotten to really get a good feel for it. But I did make a run across town and the rear of the car had a loose feeling Before the wing Now after my trip across town it felt tight. But the next day or so it snowed a little..

    Drivers%20side_thumb.jpg

     

    Side_thumb.jpg

     

    Pass%20side_thumb.jpg

     

    Snowday4_thumb.jpg

     

    I will still need to block sand it and stuff but the over all fit seems pretty good.

  5. I bought a different style it uses one mount that you have drill for and two tab's that side in the notches for the head adjustment.

    The fit is not bad but could be better. I saw a Z car parts site that has them on sale for 56$ I think it was.

    At MSA their about 74$ with shipping. I'll see if I can find that site again I may have pic's of them on mine but I'm at work and I'm sure those would be at home.

  6. Dude, are F-body drivers the worst in the world or are they just 20 something boys trying to impress chicks. In any case, god bless them for making their cars available.

     

    Funny you said that on the way home this morning a guy with newly bought F body spun out and drove part way through our fence. No real damage but I'll bet he will be farting seat foam for a couple of days. :burnout:

  7. I'm planning on swapping out my auto for a 5spd in my 75 280 in the end I want to Auto-X and maybe some Time trails but the car is and will be driven on the street. Although I would like to go with a turbo but for now I stay N/A

     

    This morning I'm off to the junk yard to pull the pedals and hard line for the clutch and few other thing like a bigger MC for when I go with bigger brakes.

     

    Anyway I have some leads on trannys but the other day I found this listing in some 510 parts for a dogleg tranny. Would any of you have any imput on these I did see one post that talked about them. http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/236860258.html

     

    Thanks

     

    Eric

  8. That Alfa brought back memorys when I was a kid my Dad and Mom both raced a Alfa Romero Spyder, We spent many weekends at Mid Ohio where they either raced or worked at the track. This was back in the mid 60's to early 70's. Dad took lots of pic's of CanAm races and SCCA stuff they are all on slides I wonder if I can get them put on a CD or something..

    Dad took a pic of Mark Donahue (sp) with a broken leg after his crash at Road Atlanta when the car he was driving fliped over...

    Thanks for the pic's guys! :)

     

    Cethern

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