Troutman

I recently cracked the breather outlet on the driver side. It was a result of storing too much in the spare tire well (too much weight, thin steel flexing from hitting a bump, hitting the outlet) I tend to keep tools and other items in there as "just-in-case" stuff. So my 2 remedy suggestions (aisde from not storing anything in the well ever again) eliminating this outlet Is it possbile to completely remove this vent outlet and seal the hole off leaving only the 2 vent outlets on the top most portion of the tank? spacing the fuel tank I was thinking of using ".250 harder durometer rubber and placing that between the top of the tank and the spare tire well to create more clearance if i choose to leave the outlet. (hopefully this would be thin enough where it wont affect the straps). Any thoughts are appreciated Thanks Todd

i contacted NRG again and this is the response i received "All we have from previous install and test notes state that it did not fit when we tested the part. That is all the info we have for you at this time" the only thing i can think of is; given their design of the hub (over all thickness)... once the hub is placed onto the shaft that there arent enough threads visible for proper engagement of the nut. granted the only way to find out is to buy one and try it out. however im not one to waste money on personal R&D of others designs. still you would think that a reputable company would give you a better response than "it doesnt fit"

i recently purchased a nardi wheel with an NRG quick release, but received a MOMO hub, which is a bit too tall. (i wanted the NRG short hub) the hub NRG makes says it only fits 74-83 260/280s. (and a few other nissans as well) i asked their tech support and they said it would not fit a 240. Did nissan actually change the shaft dia./ number of splines between those generations? Thanks Todd

sorry.. i hate when people do that to me as well. so ill try and ease the situation by saying it could also be a faulty sending unit or gauge, so it could be reading incorrectly.

im really not tryin to pull the engine back out of the car..cause thats just going to lead to more money spent...(ie "now that the engine is out lets repaint the car like i talked about, and do this that and the other") hopefully when i drop the trans i'll be able to see whats going on and go from there. thanks for the info.

that is a good possibility..thanks for the info. also i am running dual electric fans now on a thermostatic switch, and i may have it set at too low of a temp that does not allow the engine to warm as soon as it should. i figured that the seal probably wasnt in correctly and that the oil leak just confirmed it. i hadnt planned on rebuilding the trans until next winter but i think i may do it this winter to also gain access to the rear main seal. is it a PITA to do the seal while the engine is still in the car? thanks

im curently seeing higher oil pressures than i would like during inital driving. usually the pressure will climb up to 60-65 psi roughly for the first 5 minutes of driving then gradually work its way down to 45 and remain there once the car is at temp (aisde from stop light idle). unless of course im am on the gas hard and it will take longer. 9 times out of 10 i dont drive the car hard, but the first time i did... now resulted in a leak at the rear seal. the engine has roughly 1200 miles on it since the rebuild (l28 f54/ P79 in a 240) i ran a staright 30w for break in then switched to mobil 1 10w-30. i never had the pressure spike when i ran the staright 30. im curious to know if i should switch oil viscositys or go to a semi-synthetic, etc. to reduce this inital pressure? i live in milwaukee and the car is only driven roughly may-oct/nov so the lowest possbile cold start up would be in the 50s, highest in the 80s. Thanks Todd

i was sold the 75-90, which i figured out would cause gear clash because of its slipperiness. drained it and filled it with MT90 and have no more problems

figured it out....wrong fluid. got sold the wrong stuff and i didnt double check

i recently changed the fluid in the trans (5spd out of a 78) in a 240z with redline 75-90. i used roughly over 2 quarts. i took the car for a drive and for the first time ever i grinded a 3rd to 2nd shift.... no big deal, but then it happend 3 more times. either by engine breaking or for acceleration out of a corner. i have never grinded a single gear in the car ever. (i do not know what type of fluid was in the trans, but i t did seem thinner.) now this may be just a strange conincidence, but something doesnt seem right. So, is this something?, or just completely ironic? Thanks

i think i may have scored a new tank 10 minutes from my house..thats suppose to be in great condition. im going tonight to check it out. thanks for the replies Todd

its a 73 thanks todd

I sprung a leak at the outlet elbow on my fuel tank last night. It was cracked somewhere and somewhat repaired by a previous owner with a gob of JB weld. I managed to hit it while cleaning the underside in prep for paint.. I’m curious to know if this is a 2†(roughly)elbow that attaches to the outer shell of the tank, or is this elbow is the end of a longer line that goes down in tank? I’m trying to get an idea of what would be necessary in order to fix it. I plan on dropping the tank this weekend or coming week, and siphoning a full tank of gas. Thanks Todd