AllBoost
-
Posts
24 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by AllBoost
-
-
Bumping this thread finally cause i now have time to work on my car again. Massive changes have happened to the car over the last couple of weeks and i think im ready for an update. For the lq9 i have purchased a new comp cam 228/232, Patriot valve springs and retainers, 799 heads, e85 injectors and put fresh gaskets in her. For the fuel system i purchased a new 8 gallon, stainless steel fuel cell, bosch 044 inline fuel pump, fuel lab fuel pressure regulator and i need the lines to go with it to completely the fuel system. I purchased a 4 row champion radiator and a 280zx master cylinder. The car will now be traveling with me to orlando and into my shop at Master Auto Care for new floorpans, and to stiffen the rockers/torque boxes. Then i will purchase my mount kit and t56 and shes ready to start i believe
. Then its time for some custom suspension work. -
Fuel cell: I am personally using a 20 gallon. ( 24L x 20w x 10 H) summit foam filled cell an a walboro 255 lph or whatever pump. Running 43psi through the stock injectors(. I have been told that I should e closer to 60psi, but it runs well and I have no wot lean issues, I am running an ezefi ecu though). The setup works well, but if I were to do it again I would go with internal baffles any day of the week, The foam does an okay job, but If I'm at 1/3 tank or less and I have to brake harder than a gentle stop, I can hear the pump strain from fuel starvation, no stalls because of it though, and itgets worse on sharp declines. I'm planning on changing out the foam and adding a horseshoe shaped aluminum baffle with a hinged trapdoor around the sump
when I do
Radiator: I bought an eBay 3 core champion aluminum radiator for mine and it does an adequate job, the car will run 195-205 all day, (when my f**king fans work) I wish I could get it down to about 185 but I'll take what I can get. FYI I bought a setup with dual ~10 inch electric fans. I would recommend building a shroud and running hood vents..
Mounts: do you have an early or late 260? Be sure to specify for John, as the trans mount is different, My best tip for that one If you have a 240 is bolt it up so the mount is as far forward on the trans as possible( both the mount and bracket have or holes drilled on extremes so you vary where it goes, however the mount is right in the necked down area of the tunnel, so it's much too wide of you put it on too far back, I had to give mine a few smacks with a 5lb sledge to clearance the trans tunnel for it... And don't forget to dent your trans tunnel for te reverse lockout like I did
For the master, I'm using a short tilton 3/4 and it works very well, then again I have a very modified pedal setup, and I have heard that te 15/16 or even the 1" stock replacements work very well
Great info!!!! I really appreciate it! About to send in my order form for the mount kits tomorrow and buy a fuel setup tonight. 10 gallon tank is only because when i drift i only have short runs. maybe 5 or 6 runs at the MOST. Which are on fairly short track. I will be at wide open throttle most of the time but still i should have plenty of fuel for my needs. I have the early one i believe. It looks just like the 240z.
-
Im sorry. That was a simply typo. lol
-
Ive been a member on here for quite some time gathering information about my build. i recently bought a fully dressed lq9 with all the accessories and wiring harness as well as the entire fuse block and ecm. Im planning on dropping this into my 260z and getting my slide on. Im trying to finish my build in this next month and a half and am making this theres to see if there is anything i am forgetting. so please help me out! lol
heres some pictures of the car.
The body and suspension parts-
-ground control coilovers
-sway bars front and rear
-r200 diff conversion from 280zx
-Wilwood disc brakes on all 4 corners
-4 point roll bar with 5 point harness and Corbeau Seats.
And heres all the information about the motor.
Short block is stock, pistons, rods, crank
Just this month I installed a freshened up set of cathedral port 799 heads off a '08 truck.
New FelPro MLS head gaskets,
ARP head bolts
Comp Cam .617/.605 225/230 Dur.
Patriot gold .650 valve springs with titanium retainers, 7 degr. locks
Comp hardened 7.4 pushrods
32 lb. "E85" injectors from flex fuel 5.3
Stock truck intake, throttle body, rails
Parts i need to get.
-JTR install kit.
-T-56 trans and appropriate clutch. Because this is going to see mostly track use and heavy clutch kicks at speed which clutch do you think would suit my application best?
-Master cylinder- Wilwood 15/16 replacement seems to be a popular choice. I also have a k-sport hydraulic handbrake with a 5/8 wilwood cylinder and im not quite sure how to get it working on my setup with a wilwood brake biaster. Any info on that would be greatly appreciated.
-Fuel cell and fuel pump setup-I would love to see a could setups of what people are running why each is best. i need something with a decent bit of baffling because the rear of the car will always be sideways.
-Radiator- Whats everyones opinion on these? Fans as well? Anyone have some cheap options?
In the future i plan on getting a Arizona Z Car Lower control arms, Tension control rods, and shortened steering knuckles but i just want to get the car up and running with the new motor first things first.
What else am i forgetting!
Thanks to everyone in advance and yes i did search!!!
-
I don't know how much drifting experience you have, but just as a heads up, it is going to be pretty different drifting this car, than say an S13.
Things like not having as much steering angle, and sitting way back in relation to the car could be an interesting transition. Should be awesome to watch this project though.
If you search the archives for Drift240z (i think is his name) he was trying to get pretty competitive with his Z, and there's some good technical info about solving some of the problems with drifting a Z.
are you planning on getting an LSD...?
Good luck!
i think you gentle were looking for me and my thread. yes i believe i might be one of the only people on earth attempting to drift a Z. the biggest issue as everyone has talked about is indeed the steering angle. Or the lack there of. The problem comes from the facts that the Tc rod comes into close proximity with the wheel and tire when at full lock.
-
Widening the track and getting more neg. camber (or less camber if you will) go hand in hand. I am planning on buying these LCA's front and rear, they seem like a good idea. If you're on a tight budget.. I'd still say go for them because they will hold up, and as I understand it, you need to have dialed in suspension geometry to be able to be competitive in drifting, so this would give you the adjustability. Plus they are pretty well known in the drift world. I also plan on going for their RCA's, you should consider this too, to get correct angles after lowering your car.
Well guys. progress is finally speeding up on this car. Funds have opened and with the economy turning around, i was able to pick up some more work this past year.. Today i purchase a lq9 6.0 motor making about 450hp
after researching this past year exactly what to do with the suspension i plan on trying to modify the setup i have with the T3 lca's and rca's. I will have the exact specs on her here shortly. -
the z chassis biggest problem among all in the sense of drifting is its lack of steering angle and no power steering. The most prominent problem with the low amount of steering angle is the fact the tc rod is so close to the wheel when at full lock. i believe you can compensate for this by adding a 1in wheel spacer and running steering rack extenders as well as widening the track of the car to gain some clearance and add some more steering angle. i plan on drifting my Z and am building it to only drift. it will have a v8 as well and adjustable LCA's front and rear, techno toys tuning TC rods, and steering rack extenders. im open to all info to help me get sideways though!!!
-
I dont believe so because if the dipstick it being pushed out, i believe that would mean that their is to much pressure in the crankcase and its looking for places to escape such as the breather and dipstick. Double check your pcv valve to see if its clogged. That would for sure cause extra crankcase pressure and would cause many of the problems your having.
-
Yeah but switching over to the s12 subframe would be really pricey I feel. i already have coilovers on all four corners, wheels, and tires. Im kinda on a budget.
-
http://technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=846
Well guys its been a long time since i have posted in this thread but i have still been hard at work trying to figure out a way to get some more steering angle out of this car. Im still piecing together some miscellaneous parts and im hoping to start building around christmas. Would these lca's help me at all in some better sliding? Im thinking that widening the track of the car as much as possible and of course getting it lower and adding camber should help me to get in some smoother slides.
-
Damn, well that throws in another variable cause then i will need LSX mounts for a e30/36 crossmember and would more than likely have some fitment issues. I really wish a company would step in a make a kit for some 240z drifters. Just a new lca, ball joint taper, and tc rod. I would seriously be willing to pay for something like that.
-
Ok but does the BMW LCA bolt up to the stock crossmember? If so that would make this swap MUCH nicer. Anyone know? I would totally go that route cause I know those BMWs always slide well.
-
WOW. That e36 lca and tc rod would be perfect. Its close enough to the design i need and with little modification i feel it would work well. What knuckles would you guys recommend using with that setup? Any chance of modifying the s30s or would i just have to sack up and get some e36 ones and run their hubs and such?
-
The problem is the tension compression (TC) rod. It connects to the inner ball joint bolt holes, so even if you lengthen the control arm, you don't get it away from the TC rod. Gollum has the right answer, SLA would fix the problem, as would a 944 or RX7 style control arm that is shaped like an L. Ours, if you look at the control arm and the TC rod, essentially is shaped like a right triangle.
Once you got the control arm issue out of the way then you'd need some modifications on the rack to give it more throw. You can probably find a rack out of a different car that has more than 5" of stroke like the Z has, or you could make a shorter steer knuckle (the shorter you go, the harder it will be to steer).
I just looked at some pictures and am now understanding why my idea wont work. That TC rod is right in the way of that tire. It might be worth trying to make some room for a custom TC rod that has more of an L-shape in order to move the TC rod a little closer to the body and free up some room for that tire to come back in towards the body. Heres a picture of what i believe you are explaining to me. 2nd one in this thread.
-
You guys do have some good points. We will have to see what i end up with. Im thinking a frame knotch might be on of the most simple routes. I like the idea of cutting out the Datsun strut towers, swapping them out for the s13s, putting a set of s13 a-arms that are adjustable with camber and caster, s13 knuckles, and utilizing my wilwood brakes that are in the same hub size and pattern as a s13 if i am thinking correctly. 4x114.3 I believe is whats correct? Cause i can always add bracing in the frame and triangulate it to make it stronger. I planned on adding some square tubing around the car to stiffen up the chassis and try to keep chassis flex in check with the big motor and the car always sliding sideways. Anyway to make it stiff i feel would help. I think these would help with some other things to give me the steering lock i want. http://technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=846. Correct me if im wrong by take the entire hub assembly and putting it farther away from the body i would gain some lock as long as i could get the tie-rod/frame clearance im looking for. I really need to get this car up on jackstands and start tears apart the front end to get a better idea of exactly what this all looks like in real life and maybe i can ask some better questions for some more feedback from you guys. Thank you and keep the info coming!
-
Well I really want this setup to work so im prepared to do what I need to to make it slide. Is there any way I could make some cuts in the cross-member and then weld some new steel in the shape need to clear the tie rod? I presume if there was enough room on the inside I could put some reinforcement on the inside with triangulated pieces of steel. What other knuckles do you think would have a chance at being mounted on the s30 A-Arms?
-
This is exactly why i am here ^. I know that you guys know more about these cars than i do. The why i read through everything i can to try and gain some knowledge on it before i post. And you right im more used to the 240sx with a rb25 motor as drift cars. Thats what im used to work on for drifting. That why in my first post i asked for help on getting these things to slide. I was sitting in the car yesterday and gave the wheel a flick and the steering is so light. Granted there is no motor in the car but still it feels effortless so i am going power steering less and can always add it in later. Thank you guys for all information and keep it rolling to me. I'll soak up as much as possible.
Hopefully others wondering about doing this to their s30's will learn something or maybe can add to this thread. -
they are custom coilovers with summit racing springs, illumina struts.
[/quote/]
Are you saying thats whats on my car and if so, how do you know?
-
The issue with steering lock isn't just the rack or the steering arms. The TC rod and the frame in front of the crossmember get in the way big time. There are fixes for all of this, its just takes some thought, money, and time.
might need a frame knotch with a reinforced metal and some triangulation. i will have to see when i get to the suspension part of the car what we can achieve. i really do need to get the powerplant underway. so who would have the lowest motor sitting mount kit for the s30 and the ls. i have read the stickies and heard about brokenkitty.com alot and the kit seems pretty flawless but i really want the motor sitting as low as possible.
-
I should have some axles out in a week or so that will handle anything you throw at them and will have a lifetime guarantee against breakage. I'm impatiently waiting for the prototype set to arrive.
i would love to try out a set. the car has some big plans for it. the rear suspension will more than likely custom based around either the coilovers on it now or coilovers off a s13 chassis. it will have very stiff springs in the rear (prolly 10k's) and 8ks in the front. this car will have to win with its power and short wheelbase.
-
Your biggest issue (and its a big one) is steering lock. There's not enough to make a good drift car.
custom tie rods and a jigsaw helps alot for that. or is it the fact of the knuckle. i was thinking of maybe using an electric power steering pump off a toyota mr2.
-
i recently picked up a 1974 datsun 260z from a member on this forums. i have been wanting to build a real all out drift car now for the past 2 years and i wanted to do something different than the rest of the crowd but still drive and perform well. so heres what i got.
http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq358/AllBoost12/052.jpg[/imgThe car is immaculate with no rust. it has coilovers on it already but i have no idea what type the are. the dont seem to have been worked on at all so they might be arizona zcar coils but i need to get some better pictures for you guys to take a look.for power i plan to use a ls motor with some goodies. get it around a solid 375-425 wheel horsepower. car has a 5 point gforce harness along with corbeau racing seats. i have been reading countless threads about thise drivetrain swap and the only thing i really am worried about is power steering, or the lack there of, and the rear end. ive been thinking a r200 turbo diff would be enough but i feel the the axels would quickly break with the continuous clutch kicks and hydraulic ebrake. any and all information about getting one of these cars to slide cleanly would be greatly appreciated. i am not new to the car world and have plenty of tools and know how. i also own a 2003 dodge neon srt that puts down 423 wheel horsepower on 24 pounds of boost.
. Then its time for some custom suspension work. 
260z Drift Monstor
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
absolutely guys, i will be taking pics of the car over the next couple of weeks as soon as i get my new camera. I could never leave the Datsun family. ive been doing a ton of research on the steering geometry of the s30 and finding a way to overcome that tc rod problem. Being a student in mechanical engineering at ucf im now taking a manufacturing class using cnc mills, lathes, presses, ect. So now for senior design i am planning on making a completely custom set of tc rods that will be L shaped. ill design them using protools 3d modeling software and outputting it to our 5 axis, in house, cnc mill.