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piper5177

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Posts posted by piper5177

  1. It's what I used to do for a living (industrial piping) now I am an estimator in the same field. I used to fly a Piper Warrior also. My pager code in high school was 5177 and stood for Superman...used to lift a lot of weights but now I am just you average everyday couch potato. I'll make it back to the gym eventually but the kid and work have me too damn busy!

  2. The L Series engine is a design from the Prince Motor Company from the late 50's early 60's who purchased the design from Mercedes Benz and made enough changes that it became a Prince motor patent. It is a very durable design and was originally a 4 cylinder. Prince and Nissan merged and Nissan added two more cylinders and made some minor changes in the oiling system and casting for the Fairlady Z. They kept the block and head design mostly unchanged for 20 years aside from tweaks for emissions.

     

    Here is the history http://zhome.com/History/Truth/Prince.htm

  3. I think I am at at least 200 flywheel with my setup, though it wasn't cheap.

     

    E31 head

    tripple webbers setup for 6500 RPM peak HP

    stage 3 cam (Schneider .460" 270/280)

    port matched Canon intake

    flat top forged pistons

    .030" overbore

    P&B crank

    12 lb flywheel

    MSA 6-1 header

    2.5" mandrel bend exhaust with Dynomax bullet and Magnaflow round race can straight through

    Crane Fireball Hi-6 digital ignition on an E12-80 module

     

    I get 160-165 on 91 octane at the wheels (got to be around 200 flywheel). I'm not going to pull it out to test flywheel HP. I love this engine setup, just enough torque down low and easily revs to 7000. I could probably get more with headwork but it runs so good that I don't want to mess with it anymore and I wouldn't notice the few extra ponies on the street. When this engine dies (less than 5000 miles on it) I'm going RB25 anyway unless I get the horsepower bug up my ass.

  4. Every picture is differrent and grays seem to be the hardest. The software allows a lot of adjustment so you have to play with it a little. As far as contrast and color issues, just make sure you cover the full light range in the shot and it usually isnt too much of a problem. It's hard to get black lines like powerlines or rope on sails to not cause distortion against a bright solid background like an overcast sky though. I like to have more overexposed images than under exposed images in my HDR images as it reduces the noise issues in the mid-tones, so maybe -3 EV to +5 EV on your bracketing. It depends on what you are trying to do, but the program makes it pretty easy to try different things, doesn't take hours of time and is much faster and easier than using a program like Photoshop to adjust your curves manually, though you can get some crazy results with that method. Here is the train image with the color blown out and a steep exposure curve in Photoshop using manual HDR, I wanted the train only visible in the shadows so it would be ghostly.

     

    144702954_ddf14c1bb9_b.jpg

  5. Thanks Mike, Photomatix saves some time definitely and if you get used to the settings can do some very nice things. I don't recommend it as a standalone though. Yeah Gollum the shaddows aren't right either they are coming from the windows instead of the light source.

  6. zguy, here is a surreal HDR I made of my cousin in an abandoned church. I took the series of images around six months ago and never figured out what I wanted to do with them, but this thread inspired me and here it is. The second photo is one of the seven I shot inside the church (the one with my cousin standing in, it was a super long exposure since it was shot at dusk--why it's so bright and why his hands are slightly blurred. I don't know why he couldn't stand still for so long ;) ). I added the cloak and the flare obviously and did some specular lighting effects with color filtering to get the effect. Its a quick photoshop so don't be too critical.

    338984056_c55a20101b_b.jpg

    338987776_88a01ddfaa_b.jpg

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