JES0486
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Posts posted by JES0486
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Looking to buy 3-2-1 headers with smog fitting (oxygen sensor) to fit round port p79 head for a 75 280Z. Also a performance radiator for same make/model.
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I am just reading to learn about EFI tuning and have come across something called Alpha-N (throttle angle-engine speed) algorithms to estimate engine load because it worked better on Stacked type intake with individual throttle bodies, when no common intake plenum is available for monitoring. Because large pressure changes with small throttle movement and since the pressure changes happen over small throttle angle the idle vacuum is less than on plenum manifolds. So that means its harder to get a solid MAP reading even when tubing or hose is connected to each chamber each pulse feeds a strong signal to MAP giving you a noisy signal. The Alpha-N algorithm uses throttle position to estimate engine loads and makes it work well.
-This info is taken out of "Designing and Tuning High Perfromance Fuel Injection Systems" by Greg Banish.
I'm still reading so I don't know if any of the MS's are capable of this algorithm but it for what it's worth it maybe that is why your chasing idle using MAP inputs on MS2, I was interested in ITB for my 2.8L N/A so I'm doing as much reading as I can between that and MS to properly understand how it works so that I can plan ahead.
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I understand about the time/money in but at that price I don't think you will be competing very good with what is already available.
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75 280z w/ET swap = yes
82 ZX untouched NA = yes
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Well I turned off the Profec and it's just on the spring and seems to climb and hold better at around 12-15lbs, but I still get the same symptoms during WOT's. But on a side note I did find some small exhaust leaks (2) pre turbo, (1) post turbo that I will need to fix before testing again. If still acting up then I suspect checking the insides of that WG or some Profec tuning.
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Well mine is doing it headlights on or off it don't matter but I will hook up a volt meter for curiosity.
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Subscribed; I have a very similiar setup as far as the Tial wastegate/adapter/downpipe/MS2 and am having a similiar problem as you describe. If I throttle slowly the RPM's increase smoothly and boost builds until I release throttle and it blows off and I've watched my gauge steady around 7 to 8 psi. But when I quickly depress throttle/full throttle and try to wind out the RPM's the car seems to not want to rise past 4k or so. It bucks wildly and makes a loud repeated chirping noise kind of like a chirping tire on a veh with locked diff taking a corner. But while this is going on if I slowly let back out of the throttle and ease into it then it will begin to climb past 4k onto 5 to 6k. Now I have been suspecting the Wastegate and have it controlled on a GReddy Profec B set at 12. I did notice when mashing the throttle, the boost rockets up and when it nears the 12 psi mark it begins this bucking and chatter <- because of this I have been suspecting the Wastegate and want to begin testing but just haven't dove into it yet. If you find out the cause of your problem please share and when I start checking into my car I will do the same.
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May have already been posted years ago but I own it now. May make some changes this year, mostly suspesion, motor, brakes.
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Some s130 FG parts; http://www.zforceproductions.com/
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I was looking through Craiglists and I hope you don't really have to sell your car since your are close to being done. PM me, lets set up some tech days I wouldn't mind getting my hands into working through a Z again..it's been a while
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I too have a busy schedule but I have a 75 280 that has a ZXT swap in it and although I didn't do the swap myself I could provide you with tips as I have rebuilt and installed the motor on my 82 ZX by myself. I could also let you study from my car so that you can figure out your own. Like the saying teach a man to fish and he will never go hungry...besides you'll have better knowledge of your car when you do things yourself.
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If you guys are still looking for an led tail option I found these on Ebay. I don't have a set but plan on buying one.
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Just going through all the parts I'd need for a RHD swap on my '78. I'm probably going to get flamed for considering it, but I'm building it for me and not planning on reselling it or anything. Ideally I'd like to find a genuine Fairlady, but it looks like the chances are slim of finding a non rusted Fairlady stateside that's within my budget. It's looking like it'll be less expensive to find a rusted out RHD and swap everything over.
So I'll need the dash, obviously. Also the steering rack. From what I've read, I can use my LHD steering column. I can more than likely weld up pedal mounts, but if I find a shell, I can use the mounts off of it. Console, wiper controls. I should be able to move my master cylinders, but I'm wondering what I should do for brake lines. Can I use the original hardlines or would it be easier to use the RHD lines?
Thanks
There is a pretty rusted out RHD car in SA, Tx for cheap if your willing to take drive for parts. Here is the link: http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/2442911561.html
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figured it out. Alternator is good, just replaced it. The problem is a burnt plug in the wiring harness for the light switch.
Glad you found it. Even years after I change a swith/plug out I'm stilling finding problems with it. I have read that it picks up a lot of resistance and causes heat so Im going to try and figure it out before I burn up another switch.
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I have the manual AC system and a factory service manual...wasn't aware there was a thermal switch near the glove box. Will check manual.
Every fuse relating to AC and fan has been removed, tested and reinserted - twice. Not bad fuse contact...but will jiggle things and see if the problem occurs or disappears.
Remember that the AC works properly and the compressor engages, it's only the dashboard blower fan that shuts off. I can tell from the load on the motor and the idle speed that the AC compressor is still engaging.
I have the same good working manual AC with an engaging comp but never checked a thermal switch though. It was always real twitchy I finally confirmed it when I removed the fuse block, removed the wires for the AC blower hooked them up strait (w/out fuse) and it ran without anymore gremlins. After a few days of running without a fuse to make sure that was it I throughlt cleaned connections from any corrosion and resoldered the wires back in. Worked fine since.
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I had the same problem in my 82 280zx if you check and nothing else works. When the A/C fan was on it would cut off like the way you describe yours; but one day I went into the fuse box and accidently hit the fuse for the A/C fan an it came back on. Everytime it would shut off I would jiggle the fuse and it would start back up. This means that I had a loose/faulty connection at the fuse box for the fan. Hope it helps with your problem.
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In the process of restoring mine, I would take a pair of 1/4's and the hood. Let us know if you start copying em!
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i used stock nissan mounts and made my own brackets . if you go with stock mounts , make the pass. side a little higher , it will sag a little with that much torque from the v8 . rec. use chevy mounts , which i will soon .
I'm very interested and doing some research to do my own LS1/T56 swap into my 82 280ZX, would you consider making another set of brackets for sale for the mount?
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I had this same problem 13 years ago when I bought my '82, I found a short in the bulk connector under the steering wheel from the headlight/turn signal switch. I followed the wires back and saw that the wire that powers everything you mentioned got hot and melted the plastic on the connector. I had to buy a new switch and then noticed that it was starting to happen again so I have removed that connection and have it switch separatly. Hope that helps
WTB Infinti Q45 R200 VLSD 3.54
in Parts Wanted
Posted
In search of a 94-95 Infiniti Q45 R200 VSLD; located in San Antonio, TX. I have a rear cover and inards but either lost/misplaced the housing and pinion. Lmk what you have that I can piece together.