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haukenes

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Posts posted by haukenes

  1. Yeah, i debated going out and firing up the welder to see what i could come up with, but i'd rather have fiberglass anyways, plus i'm not so great with a welder anyways :-P

     

    yeah if you could get those pics, that'd be superb. If i can custom fit the BRE onto the 2+2 i wouldn't mind doing the work, since i'm stripping and body filling the entire car anyway. If anyone has any suggestions that would help, it'd be much appreciated, i haven't done much body modification before... mayb flares next though... :)

  2. Hey all,

    i have a 1980 280ZX 2+2 and have so far been unable to find a BRE style spoiler that is made for my model/year. so i've got 2 questions:

     

    1) Does anyone know if someone makes them? That'd be great

    and if not,

    2) is it possible to use one from an earlier model (EG 240Z) and have it fit close enough one would be able to mold it on? or are the rear profiles too differnt?

     

    i'm probably painting this spring, so i was hoping to do a good portion of the bodywork before then, so if anyone has ideas, i'm always happy to hear them =)

  3. Yeah i was under the impression that the Z's 'unique' areodynamics made it such that *most* (which i say reservedly, and in good taste) aftermarket areodynamic modifications will improve the overall drag coef. and turbulence issues, since the 'not quite teardrop' shape of the z-body leaves quite a bit of lift and drag at the backend... I'm not an expert by any means, i actually do biology, not physics or areo, but it seems that it would help the air off the back end a bit, not to mention the BRE style spoilers look pretty sweet :)

  4. Hey all, i was wondering (since this seems to be the difinitive source for spoiler/wing information) if anyone makes a BRE style spoiler for the 280ZX 2+2, or if one oculd just fit the 280Z to the back and somehow avoid the read winshield wiper? I'm not looking for super performance features, just a small mpg increase, and a decrease in gas smell in the back... any suggestions? pictures?

  5. I planned on putting a few hundred dollars into it, i'm just not in a situation to spend $2K on a shop job. I'm going to spray and wetsand and clearcoat, hopefully it'll come out nicely. Theres a Sherman Williams in town that'll sell me the gun, and hopefully rent me the compressor to run it.

     

    Thankfully i'm pretty rust free, it was garaged in Colorado for about 10 years, almost no humidity ever, and i've yet to see any significant rust besides on the hood where some paint chips are, but i plan on sanding those out. I hope to keep the welding to a minimum, i can weld, but i'm not great at it!

  6. Yeah, that sounds like the plan for now. I can use heatlamps in the garage to keep the temp up near 55-60F so the paint cures well, and to avoid a source of ignition. Hopefully it will warm up a bit around here, we get 300 days of sun a year, so we get nice warm spikes in the middle of winter, but all i need is one or two good days to spray, and i can sand and fill when its cold out, thats not a huge deal.

     

    Thanks again for everyones help, i usually have a general idea of what needs to be done, but the wealth of experience around here just makes it so much easier. I guess i'll get to sanding as soon as the engine and tranny are pulled for service!

  7. Sweet! Thanks so much for the help Mike, I have a walk in door opposite the garage door so exhaust wo't be an issue, i can put it there. Now for the followup questions..

     

    How long do the fans need to run? just while spraying, or 24/7 because of drying?

    and...

    How warm does it have to be to spray? Something tells me that colorado in december probably wont be the most hospitable temp for spraying, but i'd really love to get this finished.

  8. Well its good to know that it can be done in a garage, but mine is a one car, and i'm not entirely sure that it'll fit with room to manuver; i'll have to get in there with the tape measure and figure that out. My question would be "Wouldn't the exposed electric fans on the exhaust side be an explosion hazard? wouldn't it be best to have a passive exhaust for saftey reasons?" The intake fans wouldn't have fumes cming trough them, but the exhaust fans would; and i've learned in the past that solvents + air + ignition souce = training for local v olunteer fire squad...

  9. So you did that spray job in your garage huh? Did you plastic coat everything, or did it just suffer the overspray? I might be able to use my garage... provided it doesn't wreck it, and my roomates don't kill me. Too bad its a rental house, and i have to be extra super careful...

  10. I really appreciate your perspective on that RacerX, i'm actually fairly releived that not all the customers of Maaco nationwide are getting the same sub-standard product that we ended up with. Like i said above, i'd be interested in having my 280ZX painted (or finding a place that i could paint it) and wouldn't mind having a busniess do it for a reasonable price. Good to hear that people have experienced good results with similar busniesses.

     

    Now i just have to figure out what i'm gonna do....

     

    ...Thanks again! :-D

  11. I'm surprised at the positive feedback for Maaco. We had one of our police cars painted at Maaco, and it came out like crap. I'm debtaing painting mine myself next month, but i don't have a spray booth, and it'll be december and i don't know if i can do it outside...

     

    I know that setting up an improper spray booth is an explosion hazard, and if i do it in a tent it would probably be too cold, no? Anyone have any suggestions, or know how much (ballpark it) it would cost to rent a spray booth?

  12. yeah, i'd agree that its a Jaguar XJR-15. I couldn't get a good translation, but the phrase "Jaguar XJR-15" is in the description....

     

    "東海大がルマン参戦に 向け、データを得るた めにjaguarXJR-15をベース に独自のエンジンを載 せた試験車両。

     東海大学キャンパス 内でのデモランの模様。"

     

    So that would be my best guess.

  13. I've noticed the same clicking in my engine, i just replaced the head gasket, but it was clicking before. I used a stethoscope to listen about, and the Fuel rails and somewhere around the #3 piston are making the most noise; would that be the same (possibly cam timing) as above? and could that be due to chain stretch?

     

    when i re-did the timing, I used the #1 cam sproket position, and i know the #2,3 are for compensating for chain stretch, but i wasn't sure, so i didn't want to mess with anything... what d'yall think?

  14. Boulder Import Motors in Boulder, CO. Their head mechanic worked at the Datsun dealership from 79-86 and specialized in the Z parts and install. Does good work, but takes a while... and $$$. Most of their busniess (for obvious reasons) comes from other imports, but he's darn good at what he does :-D

  15. Hey thanks so much for the advice guys! and yeah it does feel good to finally do my own work. The Z shop in town charges such a ridiculous amount for anything they do, i can't afford much more than advice from them. Before my Z i had a 90' accord that wasn't much worth putting any work into, so i'm glad i finally have a car that i enjoy driving/working on.

     

    Thanks again!

  16. Wow, okay so with very little engine experience, a fair bit of mechanical intuition, and a chiltons manual; i managed to replace the head on my engine by myself in a week... I'm fairly satisfied with my work :eek: amazing.

     

    you can see the pictures of what was wrong with my engine here:

    http://colorado.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2102576&l=c702b&id=10207714

     

    I blew the head gasket on my 1980 280zx... and then let the car sit for a week... so the #6 cylinder hydrolocked full of coolant... bad news for my car.

     

    So now i guess its time to address everything a *broke* fixing the engine!

     

    #1 My temp gauge doesn't work anymore.. but all the electrical connections are properly hooked up to the block and thermostat housing (any thoughts?)

     

    #2 The fuse box in the passenger compartment now hummmmmms when i turn off the ignition, didn't used to do that and i have very little clue as to the electrical systems in the car (do we have an electrical forum? i'm sure we do and i'm an idiot and brought this here :-P)

     

    so if anyone has any suggestions, they would be *more* than welcome!

  17. Okay so... thread got dead... and i got bored, so i made a photoshop image of what i really wish i could have on the front end of my Z. Same model of the rough sketches above (of both cars... 280ZX 2+2, and Mazerati Gransport Spyder) so i figured it would be fun to see how his comes out in comparison! Let me knwo what you think!

     

    The Front...

    http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/maZerati.jpg

    And... the Back!

    http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/Back_MaZerati.jpg

  18. One other color of smoke not mentioned above is brown smoke which is also too rich and can indicate raw fuel making it out of the tail pipe

     

    Yeah' date=' i completely forgot that one, it goes similarly to the black smoke under "partially burned fuel"

     

    The blue smoke is most likely the valve guides which have always been a weekness in these motors.

     

    Now that, didn't even cross my mind. Great assertion iaconsultants! I didn't realize that the valve guides could lead to that sort of issue, thanks!

     

    Well good to hear that you don't have a blown head gasket! Unfortunately, depending on your preferences in engine work, the wiring can be almost as much of a pain! Good luck, good to hear you've got your problem figured out. -Dave

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