John Greenslade

A simplistic question. I completed a frame up restoration of a 70 240z for my son (looks great = candy apple red with new MSA 17" mags) only to have the car in an accident the first time he drove it. Rr-restored and first drive realized the transmission was now blown. Installed a re-built 280Z 5 speed but can't find the type of transmission fluid usewd in the 280. Local Nissan store is closed for x-mas. I assume it is a 76 eara 280-Z tranny. As I said a simple question although not one I could get answered by local autoparts store (there manuals did not go back that far). Also reviewed my 240z manual and found no reference to transmission oil other than capacity, Yet each autoparts store I went to asjked for specifications

I have finally (3 Years) just about completed frame up rebuild (looks great) of a 1970 240z I have two electrical issues to resolve. I have tailights but turn signal not working. The headlight low beams work but driver side high beam has power but no illumination. I tryed new halogen beam - same problem. Figured probably a ground or connection issue. The 3 point connector from the main harness to the wiring to the metal assembly that the headlight plugs into was badly corroded at the main harness side. Tryed to clean and one of the prongs snapped. Tryed re-wiring the connection with single point connectors. Now high and low beam have no illumination. My questions are (a) where can you get the stock 3-point plastic connectors (have tryed local (Vancouver automotive suppliers with no luck so far) and ( if can't find replacement what is an alternative connection technique. Have downloaded P parasaka headlight relay but need to get these connections restored first.

Relatively minor question in final stage rebuild. After three years of work I am almost completely redone frame up restoration. Notwithstanding my efforts to label and store all parts and match all bolts I have lost the bolts to the starter motor. They appear to be 10mm bolt but not clear on thread size or length. Does any one know if these are unique (like water pump bolts etc.) or the correct size. Thanks

Got my dashboard and centre console back from Dash Board Restorations n Australia. It is perfect. Not inexpensive at US$600 for all work plus shipping and customs but it is better than new.

shop is called Abington Motors/Lancaster Restoration

Thanks again Racerx, I will discuss with the retoration shop. I thought it was a good reference for the restoration shop that they wanted to bring in expert help in an area rather than do an imperfect job. A friend that referred them to me had them restore his austin Healey and they did a great job. They will also let you go into their shop and do as much work on the car yourself as you want under their direction.

Thanks Racerx. Have given the particulars to paint shop.

I took my 1970 240Z to a local restoration shop that was recommended by an associate to do a check of my body repairs and then paint. Main item of concern was to check front frame rail alignment and to build new subframe connector box and install T/C connectors. They don't feel comfortable doing the T/C connectors and think one rail needs adjustment. Any suggestions for a frame shop in the Vancouver British Columbia area that does good work for a reasonable price.

240Z has a two piece black textured rear valance that fits around rear tailights. The restoration manual gives a paint mixture for refinishing this that includes adding I believe Ditzler suede filler. Is this a standard product that one can purchase at any automotive paint supplier. I tried to locate with an internet search without success.

Has anyone used the services of ZTherapy in Salem Oregon to have there SU's overhauled. Am thinking of sending mine (70 240) to them for refurbishment

I shipped mine to Dashboard restorations in Brisbane Australia. expect it back next week. Shipped through a firm in vancovuer Washington. They completely strip and restore to original quality. Total cost from vancovuer Washington, including freight, cistoms, restoration is US$600

I am currrently looking at new seats for 1970 240Z. and have been considering Corbeau VX 2000. Car will be strictly pleasure daily driver for my son. Has anyone any experience with Corbeau seats and this model in particular.

Am in the process of stripping engine from 70 240Z - approx 150,000 original miles - engine was rebuilt at 80,000. I took head off last night. No visible problems with head. Anyway propose to have it reconditioned now while everything is apart. The timing chain cam sprocket was at number 2 position. While the chain and sprocket look fine I am wondering if I should change it now while I am rebuilding everything else. So far the mechanical condition of drive train is excellent as compared to the rusted-out condition of suspension, frame and floor.

I purchased new springs and Tokico shocks earlier this year and finally compelted a refinish of front suspension and was assembling on weekend. The shock fit perfectly in the strut but the springs were not compressed when I assembled. I added polyurethane spacers I had from rear struts above the strut bearing, compressed springs and reassembled. Everything seems OK. My question, before I install assembly into body - Would I be better to use a second strut bearing (I have an extra set) rather than the poly spacer or does it make no difference?

I am currently completing rebuild of front suspension on 70 240Z. I bought new front control arms and burned out centre bushing with intent of putting in new poly bushing from energy suspension. The diameter of the Energy suspension bushing is the same as the outer diameter of the metal shell on the original bushings so I had outer shell pressed out and installed the energy suspension poly bushing. Afterwards, as all good engineers, I read the energy suspension bushing instructions which said you should leave in the original metal shells. My question (a) how would you get the damn bushing in with the shell in place and therefore ( are these instructions correct. I have attached control arm to cross member and am about to complete the front strut rebuild and then put wheels back under car - so it would be easy now to correct problem if I did it wrong.