AC.

how much?

thanks but all it tells me is i cannot start a new post

Hi, I know this is not the right place but I have been searching the site and I cannot find an answer. I want to post my Z for sale and I just want to know how much do I need to donate in order to get access to post a for sale ad? I just need a little guidance please, it will be greatly appreciated, thanks.

I work in an ER and I have taken care of the owner there in the ER. I got to know him a little on the personal side and I didn't like his shop being talked about. No worries. I enjoy working on my cars myself, and in reality I have never take my cars to a mechanic in about 5 years, just work on them at home, I just have this "thing" about suspension, I guess I'm a little paranoid about it. I always feel as though if I work on it I will end up with something falling off as I'm driving down the road. I don't know why. I feel the same way about dropping down money and not getting quality work. thanks guys.

Rebekahsz, The shop I take my cars has been really good, they had one guy that was new, they let him go and acknowledged their mistakes. If you would've read everything, I said my brakes were soft before I took the car in, and they were no different after they worked on the car. Keep those comments to yourself, that is a shop I can count on with a honest owner.

I'll have to see about bleeding them again, they were this way before I took the car in. I'll do that and if that doesn't work then I'll do some researching. Thanks again!

Thanks again for all the help. I just picked up the car and it looks and drives great. The shop was really apologetic and everything worked out great. Now I need to figure out why my brakes are so soft. I have a new replacement master cylinder, earls stainless steel brake lines, and the toyota calipers....

I took a look at the springs, the rears were hard to take a look at, had to jack the car up quite a bit to get the spring to decompress, but sure enough, the rears ended with .001 and the front part numbers ended with .002. I took the car back this morning, the owner apologized and everything was good, they are going to try to finish it up today. Unfortunately the guy that worked on my car was let go, there were too many complaints apparently on his work.

Thanks, I will look at the the springs for the numbers. I have never taken my cars to a shop other than for suspension work. I actually like the shop I go to, I've had other cars lowered there before. The owner is a great guy and they do good work, but since the owner is getting older now and he has this new guy working there that was the one that worked on the car. I appreciate the input. So the eibach springs are labeled 1 for the front and 2 the rears? I will take a look and definitely take the car back. Thanks everyone.

I purchased KYB gas struts front and rear and eibach springs from the z store. I'm bothered by the fact that they didn't bother to mention to me that these struts say not to use with lowering springs. But anyway, I had the parts installed at a local suspension shop and now the front is about an inch higher than stock and the rear dropped a little more than 3 inches no kidding. Can someone help me? Were they installed wrong? The nose of my car points up and my rear tires are now tucked in the rear fenders about 1.5 inches in. I would greatly appreciate any info I can get, thanks. 77 280z

Which aluminum wheels are you running? aftermarket? I have the original steel wheels.So I think I'll go get them. so from what I've read the motorsportauto earl's steel lines will also screw right in correct?

I have been searching on and off for a couple days now in the forums, but I can't really find a definitive answer. My question: I am replacing my master cylinder and going to stainless earls brake lines, so I figured I might as well put in the Toyota calipers. I have the stock 14" steel wheels that came with the hubcaps, will the 4x4 calipers clear the stock wheels? 77' 280z. Thank you.

Thanks for the input. I will skip them for now since I already placed my order without them. But if I don't like the feel of the suspension like you guys said, I could always install them at a later time. Just wanted to make sure they weren't needed.

I have a quick question: I have ordered KYB struts all 4 corners and the Eibach lowering springs from The Z Store. Is it necessary to also get the bump-steer spacers for just everyday driving? Will I have alignment issues with just 1-1.5 inches of drop? My car is just a weekend, clear day cruiser not seeing autocross or any type of competition. 77' 280Z Thank you in advance.

I will definitely start again from square one. I say I know the mustang EFI pretty well cause I can work my way around one pretty easily when something isn't running correctly, but I will educate myself more on the datsun unit. I need to start off now by getting another battery. thanks

well i tried many of the helpful suggestions provided. I had a glimpse of hope today, I was looking under the hood for what seemed like the hundredth time since its been sitting, I turned the key and and after cranking a couple of times she turned on just long enough for me to hear my exhaust (I was pretty excited just to hear her after many months). I don't know what could be wrong. Since it fired up for about 2-3 seconds, I want to say I have an electrical problem. I have spark, and it sounded as though I got fuel. When doing more research here on hybridz, I came across that thread that was started by the owner of Arizona Z car. It seems that people that have used his product have nothing but good feedback. I really want to keep my FI, but if I don't make any progress I am really considering that route. Actual users of the products seem to switch over after experiencing engine issues. They speak about it being super easy to work on, reliable and it delivers good performance. Many of the stock FI advocates rave about keeping it, but in my research I have found that you can't do much to it, no computer chips, I saw a throttle body upgrade from a 240sx i think, but there aren't many adjustments you can make to the computer to make the upgrade worthwhile, you can do a MAF swap but it looked very very complicated for minimal return, and there is just so much going on with that system. The most familiar FI system I know is the 90s-early 2000s mustangs, not complicated at all, and the datsun system has so much going on for no reason, it just seems as though it could have been done in a much simpler way. But anyways, I want to keep my FI if I can, but the Arizona z manifold is just my plan b. If anyone has anymore suggestions to provide I would greatly appreciate it, thanks.

I didn't hear anything when it died...I've experienced the timing chain braking in the past. I'll try the multiple things you guys mentioned. what about the MAF sensor? Can that not allow it to start if its bad?

I have a FSM... i think thats what its called, the Zcar forum guys jumped on me for not having it on my computer... so I'll look more in depth at it. thanks guys. I'll also look at the timing.

I just got all new spark plugs yesterday... i pulled one plug at a time while a buddy cranked and saw spark on each one. and cleaned off the distributor cap.

I'm obviously new to this FI stuff, but I do more or less no my way around it. so how can I find a faulty injector? do I replace one at a time with a new one? or can I test it?

Blackdog, I've tried most everything but the injectors. will it not run even if one injector is not pulsating/ giving fuel? Isn't each fuel injector at least $60 a piece? that would be close to $400 with tax for injectors alone. that was one of my reasons for looking into going carbed. I spend about $800-850 or so and a majority of my expenses will be covered. But I am wanting all the input i can get. thanks for the fast and helpful responses.

newzed, I tried the starter fluid and got nothing... I'll look at engine fuel section too

The one reason I am considering a holley is because that is what I run on my daily driver mustangs, and I have never had any issues with the carbs. My current mustang has a 306 stroker with a 470cfm holley and I'm getting 22 mpg average with no issues. The arizona Z manifold costs $269, 390cfm carb is about $369, plus engine bay fuel line, a fuel pump and fuel filter, air cleaner and element, throttle linkage and vacuum hoses. so around $850 more or less and I'm doing all the work myself. I was planning on doing the work over a span of about 4-5 months, the cost would be distributed through those 4-5 months (I work slow...lol..) What do you guys think? But I'm still wanting my FI to work....

Yes sir, It ran perfectly fine, very smooth. basically the morning she left me, it was idling rough, had a lopy rhythm going on and it cut off on my driveway that morning. It fired right up again with the rough idle, a couple min later if cut off, and after that it just would crank and it never turned on after that. I have cleaned the distributor cap, and all the spark plugs are new, like 2 days old, I bought some new ones yesterday as i motivated myself to work on her again.

stock 77’ 280z 4-speed…. This is my first Z, I absolutely love the car, I’ve had it for about 1 ½ yrs now, but it has been sitting in my garage now going on 10 months. It just died on my driveway one day and I have not been able to get it started. It just cranks/turns over. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator was leaking fuel, so I replaced that, all the vacuum hoses are in good condition, I have good spark on all six cylinders, I disconnected the fuel hose just past the fuel filter and it spit out fuel when I turned the key so I know I’m getting fuel up to the FI system, and I’ve been researching all over the net for a while and cannot find what is wrong. I don’t want to keep throwing money at it without results, and I’m at the point where I’m ready to order the Arizona Z car 4 barrel manifold. I’m a 4-eyed fox body carbureted mustang guy, but I love the style of the Z, and I don’t want to change from what makes it a classic Japanese car if I can help it. I read mixed opinions about the FI being trash, some say its great, many say that the 4 barrel set up is not good and I understand about the fuel mixture issue, but no one says anything bad specifically about the Arizona Z car manifold. I’ve read that the design of the manifold distributes the fuel evenly providing fuel for the “end†cylinders, and people are out racing with them with no issues. They are daily drivers that get great throttle response and fuel economy and they say better reliability than the FI. The problem I have is people speak about this as something they heard or their buddy said, but I am looking for actual experience with these set ups. I have searched this forum as well and I know how it works, I have not found the info I need, so if you know of a thread, please give me the link and I will gladly read up on it. I know forum folks don’t like the repeat stuff…lol… So my question(s) are: 1. can someone help me figure out my FI issue; or 2. if you have experience with the Arizona Z car manifold please fill me in. I love the car and I “need†to get it on the road this spring. I’m really hoping not to get the rude responses like the Zcar forum…. Those guys do not like to answer you, they just say “it’s been answered already, look it upâ€. I just think as car guys you would love to talk cars with any opportunity you get Thanks in advance