bowl of seeds
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Posts posted by bowl of seeds
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My Z had a charging problem with the alternator.. The PO installed a internally regulated alternator and eliminated the external voltage regulator. The car runs correctly until the battery dies of course.. Is it worth trying to fix this messy harness or should I try and source a cleaner, more complete harness? I've been on the look out at junk yards around me, craigslist, and even ebay but I can't seem to find one for my year Z..
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I'm having the same problem with my 75 280z. The harness was messed with by the previous owner and it has a 240sx alternator 90amp alt. in it but doesn't charge. I have a feeling the main positive wires are shorting somewhere I have my harness pulled to check the wiring, have you had any luck with yours?
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I'm still looking for a set of SU's round tops along with choke cables, carb fuel rail, and intake manifold. I should mention that I'm looking for local only so I could pick them up myself instead of having them shipped.
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I'm looking for a set of sus I'm done with my efi system failing on me, I had a much better experience when I was carb'd.. so if anyone local has a set willing to let go let me know.
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I have one too.. so if all else fails.. its polished.
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Hello I recently removed my dash to attempt to repair it and when i was reinstalling it i was left with a blue wire coming out of the efi harness right above the ecu disconnected. I cant seem to find where it goes and i believe it is coming from the coil (-) negative it is the same color blue and gauge wire.
I found a picture online to show which one im talking about can anyone tell me where it goes? ( i circled it in red)
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I'm in the process of painting my engine bay so im going to be removing the engine and all components and I was wondering if i could throw in a 77 280z engine bay wiring harness in the 75? The harness is a mess and i have a spare 77 harness laying around that will need just a few wires redone.. it will make my life so much easier if I could just swap it over and eventually redo the old one. Is there a difference between the two? Would it be a plug and play situation or am I going to have to modify it? if thats the case then I might as well just redo the 75 but it will eat up a lot of time and im eager to get the car up and going again as it was my daily until I decided to strip it for paint.. any info is appreciated.
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So I took everyone's advice and passed on this one. The hunt for my next Z continues! Thanks everyone.
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or we share the monster
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What do you guys think i offer him 500 bucks and a monster
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wow that car got totally wrecked.
i know right its so sad to see it now
ok so how do you know it needs motor mounts? does it shake violently? becuase when I first bought my 240sx, the guy said it needed motor mounts, turned out one of the injectors wasn't firing and it was running on 3 injectors. Absolutely nothing to do with motor mounts.
The motor mount rubber is cracked and coming apart, but now that you mention it I have a buddy with a 240sx and he had the same problem. Ended up being his injectors and fuel filter were clogged and a faulty FPR also.
Shift fork loose? c'mon, you can pop it into place right then and there, the tranny is probably F****d from when the turbo was on the motor and it was making a ton on HP. Guy probably drove it like a jackass.
I honestly didn't believe him but I dont know much about KAs and my buddy that does wasn't able to go with me at the time. Supposedly hes the second owner after the original guy who built it.
Most drive train parts are interchangeable, but I would stay away from that car period. Unless it was free. It bent, engine doesn't run, and the tranny is on it's way out, back fee's etc....
The engine is running actually its just the transmission that wont go into gear thats why it wasn't able to move, It is stuck in neutral. From what I could tell the tension rod needed to be swapped out because it was bent and the ear mounts for the tc rod on the chassis rewelded back. Thats whats up on the fron the tie rod and knuckle were fine I would swap out the knuckles with some shorter ones I cut up and welded.
yeah, steer clear. It's frame torqued. See the passenger side front fender in front of the door? it's been pushed over at least 1/4" for that interference. Just from the picts, at the MINIMUM I can see it needs both front fenders, Hood, left sugar scoop, headlight assy, both lower fenders, front lip, Signal lighting, maybe grille. If you could get those at a JY you'll spend $1000 bucks, assuming there's no shipping.
I could get the parts from my 280z I have everything minus the hood im making one out of wood since the 280 was supposed to be a drift car
who needs front end cosmetics anyway? Also, That rust isn't good. If you see that much there, then likely there's a good amount hiding all over the car. Those panels from tabco were I think $65 each if I remember correctly. How are the floor pans, the rear deck, the rear arches? Get a weak magnet and do the bondo test.
I had a rusty 240z before so I know the usual rust spots it seemed to have the engine and interior painted rear deck was rusty so were the rockers..
I'll check it out again and try the magnet trick to see.
I'm thinking that car is probably a junker, parts car at best. Sure it can be fixed, but its parts could help another bunch of cars live a bit longer. keep looking, especially in cali and the southwest craigslist sites. It's worth paying a bit more for a lot better condition.
He told me he would do a grand and deliver it to my house but it wouldnt come without the extra transmission... I wonder if there is a way to come in contact with the original builder to ask his opinion on the previous state of the car.. I'm still looking this is the first z I went to look at either way.
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Hey whats up everyone I've been searching the market for a 240z again and found this one on craigslist about 15 minutes from where I live.
Apparently it is the Midnight Boba KA24de 240z I've seen at one point in time a while ago. The current owner has it listed for 1500.. so earlier today I went to go check it out from what it looks like it needs quite a bit of work. For example the passenger rear strut hub assembly is bent and the front passenger tension rod is bent along with the body ears where it mounts needs to be rewelded back or something becase its hanging a bit.. there is no keys to the car is has one of those electronically controlled lock mechanisms where the door pops open for you. the engine seems to be the same motor that was turboed it started up after a few tries (it was sitting for a while) and motor seemed okay but definitely needs motor mounts. The transmission will not shift into gear for some reason he claims it is the shifting forks where the shifter is at popped out all you need to do is pop it back into place? He said he has a spare tranny but will only throw it in for the right price. It is also backed up in tags its around 140 to register not including tranfer fees.. Im just wondering if the asking price is fair, I do remember reading that the guy who built the car did it for about 1 grand? It would be nice to get in contact with him to know a bit more history.. I have a 280z 2+2 in the back yard i could maybe take parts from, like the rear hub assembly and tension rods etc. But are the 2+2 parts interchangeable? I'm in need of some advice here just incase I overpay. any input is appreciated.
Here is a link to the add.
http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/4153311317.html
He sent me some pics I should have taken some of the damage how stupid of me.
Ill ask him for pics of the damage and upload them later on.
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The only stamp they have is the word "Prime" on the inside back of the wheel they are 15x8 all round. I've tried looking for them using that word but I can't find them anywhere I was hoping someone on here might know the model number? I'm assuming the make is Prime.
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Just like the topic asks, Is it possible to use a 280zx ecu in a 280z? The only reason I ask is I need a ecu for my 280z and could get a zx one for $10 my question is what kind of problems would I run into?
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Hey everyone I bought a z about 3 months ago for 100 bucks and a bike rack. It was a deal so why not.. now it is in my back yard and im doing the cheapest build in the world with junkyard parts haha anyways I'm going through the head cleaning up replacing valve stem seals and what not and I discovered a bent valve on the p79 head.. I was wondering if I could maybe remove the valves from my n42 head and swap them over? if im not mistaken the N42 valves are .80 longer than the P79 valves would I run into issues?
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Hey everyone! Sorry for the lagged reply, I have some great news! I got the car to start using the electronic dizzy!
Turns out it wasn't a timing issue.. the spark plug wires were creating a weak spark and the carbs were running so rich they would completely down out the engine. I replaced the wires as soon as I received them and leaned out the carbs, I also went ahead and did a complete oil change because the oil was so diluted with fuel. Now it it just a matter of adjusting my carbs once more and I will be doing so after rewatching the Z therapy video that was sent to me by a very generous member of these forums. I want to thank you all for your help, I am truly grateful. My z sure is coming along thanks to Hybrid Z's knowledgeable and helpful Community
once again I thank you all keep an eye out for my future posts I'm sure there will be many With much gratitude,
-Frank
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I was going through the engine justto make sure I didn't leave anything out and when I went to check my oil it smelled like fuel!
Anyone know the cause of this?
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Hey guys thanks for all the suggestions! I'm currently waiting for new spark plug wires that I ordered to get here.. I noticed the ones on there were corroded on the spark plug side maybe from when I left them unplugged but still in the engine bay during rainy weather .. so I'm going to hold off anything until the wires come in I'm also going to purchase new NGK spark plugs aswell. I'm hoping that it is just these crappy spark plug wires giving me trouble considering I haven't changed em since I got the car
As soon as I receive my wires and plugs ill install them and let you guys know what happens.. Again thanks for all the help everyone! It is very much appreciated! -
There's really not much else, with carbs. Strong spark at the right time, with fuel (assuming it was running well before). Recheck your timing and your firing order if you're sure that your spark is strong. Check your plugs, they may have fouled while you were trying to get things straightened out.
Ill recheck it tomorrow morning hopefully i come up with something..how would I know if they fouled? Can I remove them and clean em up? I'm going to order some new ngk spark plug wires see if it helps give a better spark.
Yes that firing order can be used for all l28's. so it says, ima look in my garage to see if i can find my note book with the firing order i used.
I remember reading up on it and there were two firing orders for the dist, but either way if you have it all alinged right or worng, it should kinda start or rev real high. Thats how you know your a few teeth off and need to make adjustments.
Okay that'd be great! To make adjustments I'd have to remove the oil pump?
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Have you confirmed that you're getting any spark at all? This is timing-independent, nothing to do with firing order, vacuum hoses or anything else, it will tell you if there the coil is charging and the module is working. Put a spark plug on the end of a plug wire from the cap, place the threaded portion on a good ground, crank the engine over and look for spark between the electrodes. That would be step #1. If you don't have that, then you can focus on figuring out what's wrong with the module or your wiring, before worrying about timing. If you do have it then you can worry about timing.
One possibility - I have on occasion, forgot to put the rotor back on to the shaft before putting the cap back on, after changing distributors. No rotor, no spark.
Yes, I seem do be getting spark, I wired everything correctly as far as I can tell even my tach is working? I'm guessing it does have something to do with the distributor though because when I had the pertronix installed it was working correctly even if the carbs weren't perfectly in sync the car would fire up.. any ideas?
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After countless times removing,adjusting...no avail.. I just cant seem to make the car fire up :/
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Ohhh yeah! my car was giving me probs, I know what your going through, haa
Set your car to top dead center and adjust the dist. to the picture. According to the link. You should get something.
http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/65565-firing-order-for-l28et/
let me/us how it goes.
BTW, was your car running before you made the swap??
Okay, lets see if I can progress today! That's something I forgot to mention.. the PO had the original distributor with the pertronix ignition installed along with A MSD 6a..I cant remember exactly why I removed it initially ..it was probably something stupid.. or perhaps plain ol' curiosity.. anyways when I went to reinstall everything I wired everything up wrong and fried the pertronix.. the car was running okay previous to this.. in the link they talk about a different firing order? Could this be right for my car?
Hmmm... Either the new ignition module is not working correctly or you upset something else while switching the distributor. Check for vacuum hoses off and other possible vacuum leaks
Ill go through with reinstalling again if I don't seem to be getting anywhere.. I replaced the vacuum hose from the distributor just yesterday and the others seem to be fine ill double check those just to be sure. Also I might just remove the distributor to clean the base plate to insure a good ground to the block.
Ill keep you two posted! Thanks for all the help so far
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Hmm, All you need is spark, air, and fuel. to make that motor crank. so double check all of those aspects.
When i had replaced my headgasket it took me about 4 hours time to get my timing.
Hmm well ill go through it again tomorrow, before you got your timing was your car was doing the same?
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I managed to get this done, I set everything up right and when I go to start it there was ittle if any change, I did all that you say to do and tripple checked it. The car still doesn't start..maybe it doesn't have to do with timing?
who needs front end cosmetics anyway? 
once again I thank you all keep an eye out for my future posts I'm sure there will be many 
As soon as I receive my wires and plugs ill install them and let you guys know what happens.. Again thanks for all the help everyone! It is very much appreciated! 
75 280z not charging.
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Okay, so to wire up the charging system separately.. I have the pos charge wire running to the battery and the ground is coming from the chassis. Where do I connect the L and S wires to?
The alternator is a 90Amp internally regulated from a 240sx s13 I had it tested and it is good.