Matt Cramer
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Posts posted by Matt Cramer
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The MAP sensor isn't the only thing giving weird readings - there are massive battery voltage spikes too. Where exactly is the relay board grounded, and are you using high or low impedance injectors?
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Can you post up your MSQ and a tooth log of the loss of sync?
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It's losing RPM sync. Can you capture the RPM problem in a tooth log?
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Data logging is pretty straightforward: To get a data log, go to the Data Logging menu and click Start Logging. You will be prompted for a file name. The log starts when you save the file (this is an easy one to get tripped up on as a lot of people expect saving the file to be what you do at the end of the log). Once you have recorded what you need, go to the Data Logging Menu and click Stop.
If you want a video, though, check out Andy Whittle's How EFI Works channel on YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeqAzDNOeaI
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Got a data log of this? It could be the ECU is losing the RPM input.
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On 3/3/2018 at 8:14 AM, winstonusmc said:
Does this work over CAN? Would it interfere with my other 11-bit CAN devices?
It uses 29 bit CAN in the MegaSquirt version. At this point, I believe it only receives data from one device on the line - but if the MegaSquirt can read the 11 bit CAN and retransmit on the 29 bit CAN, that would be a workable option.
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Are you a car enthusiast looking to get your foot in the door of the aftermarket racing parts industry? We build and sell racing fuel injection systems, and we're looking for a technical sales and service position. We are looking for someone with experience with installing and tuning tunable aftermarket fuel injection, even if the experience so far has just been on your own personal project or friends' cars rather than paid work. MegaSquirt or AMP EFI experience preferred.
Here's what you will be doing.
- Entering phone orders and creating customer accounts.
- Helping customers determine which of our products are needed for their projects.
- Provide technical support for installing and tuning fuel injection systems, by phone, email, and social media.
- Set up and process returns, including some troubleshooting of returned electronics.
- Install and test new products and other R&D work alongside our engineering staff.
- Collect marketing data, bug reports, and other information from customers.
- Represent our company at trade shows, racing events, and other events.
- And other tasks as needed - we're a small company, so employees are expected to wear many hats. You might need to help fill in for production, shipping, or product testing if somebody is absent, for example.
And here are the skills we need you to have for this job.
- Experience with installing and tuning aftermarket tunable fuel injection systems. MegaSquirt / AMP EFI preferred. Dyno tuning experience is not required.
- Good communications skills - in person, over the phone, and in writing.
- The ability to remain polite, even with difficult customers.
- Basic computer literacy, and the ability to help customers who don't have this.
- Familiarity with common race car modifications and the ability to install at least basic bolt on parts.
- Understanding of electronics and wiring diagrams. We'd prefer if you can also understand schematic drawings of circuit boards.
- Being able to diagnose and repair circuit boards is a plus, but not required.
This is mostly a 40 hour a week office job, but there is some travel (less than 10% of the time), and occasional weekend or after hours work. If you're interested, please email a resume, cover letter, and salary requirements to ben@diyautotune.com. Job location is in Gainesville, Georgia, USA.
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DIYAutoTune.com is now carrying a digital dash that fits in the space of a conventional gauge!
It can display up to eight sensor readings at once. Plus, this gauge monitors almost all your ECU’s sensor readings, and can interrupt its display to switch to a warning message if you run into an unsafe condition such as overheating, leaning out, and more available warnings. Works with all ECUs in the MS2 and MS3 family, and also has three built in analog inputs.
The NEW Perfect Tuning 24x Multicolor OLED Universal Gauge is enclosed in billet aluminum and boasts a real carbon fiber face plate! On-board LUX sensor auto-adjusts for day/ night time viewing.
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The block or head can be an acceptable second choice, but sheet metal grounds are generally terrible. Grounding the ECU to the battery cuts out any potential for voltage drops with the block to battery ground.
I have not seen the starter cause a voltage spike that would be a problem with grounding the ECU to the battery but not the block.
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21 hours ago, madkaw said:
Might need to elaborate on this statement
In my experience, good chassis grounds are usually bad, and bad chassis grounds are horrible.
A chassis ground may look like a nice thick piece of metal running straight to the battery. But in practice, there's often a fair amount of rust, spot welds with poor contacts, and possibly sections where the current is trying to get through paint and rusty screws in the path of current that you try running through the chassis.
So grounding the ECU to the battery is the best option for grounding.
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Try grounding the MS directly to the battery. Chassis grounds often tend to have noise issues.
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Could be the solenoid is failing mechanically, but it might respond well to a bit of machine oil in all the ports. I've seen times where they "stick" and some oil frees them up.
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You can use the tooth logger feature to watch the signal coming in. See this link for how it works:
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The mods in that picture are set up for D14 spark output. Please be sure your tune is configured to match.
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Just use the on and off buttons, and see if you can get the solenoid to click. You can also check the output with a test light.
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Check the output in test mode and make sure it switches off and on correctly there.
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This is the biggest sale we've had all year - and will probably be the biggest sale we have until next Thanksgiving. Use coupon code BF2017 to receive 10% off, starting now through November 28th. This code is good for anything in our inventory - MSPNPs, solder it yourself kits, the MS3Pro, Racepak or Aeromotive products, anything! Promo code cannot be used in conjunction with other codes or offers, cannot be applied to previous orders and expires automatically at midnight, 11/28/17 EST.
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Running 30 amps through the relay board scares me a bit. I'd check to be sure the fuel pump power feed wire is not shorted to ground.
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Yes, that will be fine. The spark plug wires are about the only wires you'll run into that actually radiate noise on a typical motor.
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The IAC driver is pretty well isolated from the other functions in the ECU. Having noise injected into the IAC wires won't cause any issues for the other functions.
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Check your data logs to make sure it's not losing RPM sync.
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Hi,
Looking at you Adds as listed in the first post, to me it reads as Nissan parts. Maybe it's as simple as changing your add to read " will fit Nissan (whatever model)". or "suits Datsun".
Just a thought. Wording of an add can change buyers perception.
Hope you get it sorted.
regards
David.
We have had some of our other resellers get into the same problem, but they've never gone after our own auctions. Our wording is slightly different, and I think that's why we haven't been hit. We typically describe a model specific part as something like "Racing _____, fits Nissan 240SX" or "for Nissan SR20DET" - resellers who use something like "Nissan ___________" have fared considerably worse. It seems like listing what you've got first, followed by the magic words "fits" or "for" are what you need.
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One of the really handy items that some stand alone ECU's use is a Trim Pot. A simple 10K Ohm Linear pot that can change Fueling or Timing temporarily with a quick twist of the knob. A percentage shows up in a box to tell you how much you are adding or subtracting in Real Time. Makes dialing in WOT AFR's much faster. Also Start-up enrichment's, WUE and even idle values.
Would be nice is MS incorporated that feature.
You can use the table blending to change the fueling or timing in real time, although it is not intended to be used as a tuning tool.
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The lights on the ECU are processor controlled outputs and don't always light up when it's powered up; what makes them turn on will depend on the settings. Try powering the ECU up on a Stim instead of on the car (or on a bench where it's connected to 12 volts and ground, but nothing else) and see if it will talk to TunerStudio there.
Split second loss of power
in MegaSquirt
Posted
Tuners in the Atlanta area that we often work with would be Doug Wilkes at DBW Motorsports, or Arif Hossein at YAI Racing. There's also Zen Motors in Suwanee.