Drax240z

Check out my page at: http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html and click on "turbo buildup" on the left hand side. That will give you a bit of info. The system basically works by using a turbine, driven by the exhaust gasses to compress the intake air. You basically have a shaft with 2 impellors on it, one side has exhaust gas being forced past it, which spins the shaft, and the other side sucks air into the engine under pressure. Do some reading, and keep asking questions. ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html [This message has been edited by Drax240z (edited December 17, 2000).]

There is no question, with that kind of power considering a R180 would be sheer folly. Plan on going with an R200 from the start, and you won't have to worry about it again! ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html

Good point with the oil. We can go with oil for 3000miles in the truck and when you take it out its PERFECTLY clean. No blackness, nothing. All the tanks you will find will be cylindrical, the shape makes a very good pressure vessel. You can get thin "twin" tanks that don't take up a lot of room. The toyota 4x4 I mentioned had 4 small tanks, all mounted between the frame rails, and below the box and cab. Basically you can get tanks any size and shape you want if you have the money. ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html

Ah, imported from europe. 745ti euro model. Pretty freaking fast cars from what I've heard, though I've never seen one. (but doesn't a 4.5L turbo V8 sound like it has lots of potential?) I wish I could work on my Z... snow all over the place out there. Yuk. ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html

The stock 280zx turbos were garret aireasearch T3's. Yes, a T3/T4 hybrid will bolt right up and its been done a lot. Excellent turbo for that engine. The T3 on the L28 turbo should be good for almost 300rwhp. You could always setup the car with the performance stuff you get off the parts car, and get the turbo motor, and build it up over the next "while". At least then you'd still be able to drive the car, and you could plan on swapping in the turbo motor when it was done. Which mid 80's BMW does he have? I can't think of any that have turbos, but it wouldn't surprise me. (was there a 745ti there somewhere?) ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html

Hi David. Yes you can swap manifolds without a problem. If you want some turbo info, I wrote up a tech artcile: http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html Click on Turbo buildup on the left hand side. Generally I'd say that you'd want to build an engine with either turbo or naturally aspirated in mind from the beginning. There are a few subtle differences, one being compression. Depending on your pistons, you may be able to get by ok with swapping the head. But the 81-83 turbo engines have a different piston design and block design from the rest... parts still interchange, but the block has more webbing for rigidity, and the ring lands on the pistons are lower down to help protect them from breakage, etc. If you plan on turboing it, I'd suggest picking up a 280zx trubo engine from the start. It will just make life easier for you. Lots and lots of room for improvement on that engine too. ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html

Yes I was very close to running propane. Propane is 110 octane, and it contains about 10% less energy than a similar amount of gasoline. Yes, you can run a pretty high compression ratio on 110 octane, which is going to make up for that 10% loss of fuel economy, and power. Up in canada, you can buy automotive propane for about 75% the cost of low grade gasoline. Cheap. (It used to be that propane cost about 25% of the cost of gasoline, but the government thought they weren't taxing it enough I guess) Propane is LESS explosive and volitile than gasoline is. (thats where the higher octane comes in, and the energy loss) My dad owns a propane truck and has for 15 years now. The only problem I could associate with the propane is that it dries out gaskets a little faster, and it runs a little hotter. We've had the truck with a chev 350 in it for 15 years, we've replaced 2 headgaskets. Other than that, we have had ZERO engine problems. Zero. (Truck does have low miles though) As for the effects with NOS, I don't know. I am sure it can be done though. (I recently saw an 81 toyota 4x4 that was running a 2.8L chev V6, supercharged on propane. The guy said it was around 400hp.... think of the boost you could run with 110 octane) ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html

Follow pete's advice on this one, find the best, most rust free car you can. It will save you money, frustration and time in the long run. ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html

That looks really good Simon, please let us know how it looks and works when you get yours. I think for that price I may just take the gamble anyway, it looks a lot nicer to use than the LED ones. ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html

Turbo's an 2+2's use a 240mm flywheel. (the diameter of the machined surface I believe) The NA's use a 225mm flywheel. They will interchange from car to car (all the cranks are the same) and transmission to transmission. (the T5 may be different) Yes your 77 tranny will work. I'm still looking for a 240mm flywheel myself. I think you can get by with a 225mm and a strong clutch using a mild turbo engine. (I might have to go this route for the time being) ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html

Picking up a R200 (3.54:1) and also the finned rear diff cover. I don't have any problems or issues with making the required brace for the rear to clear the finned cover. What I am wondering is can I turn that brace into a rear diff support as well, and do away with the moustache bar? It would be a SOLID mount in the rear then, no bushings rubber or otherwise. Too noisy? I think Mike Kelly said he was running a solid front diff mount. If I use a rubber front mount and the solid rear do you think I'll get tons of drivetrain noise? I may just have to scrounge up a 280z moustache bar, no biggie. But if I can make something that will work as well or better then I might as well. ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html

If I were in your position then, with the money and choices you have I'd go with the RB25DET. Similar to the L28, but a better engine from what I know. (DOHC and the like) ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html

I'd say for a daily driven car you'd be much better off with a turbo if you want that power. (or more) Why exclude the RB26dett for daily driver status? (or any of those engines you excluded actually) Just curious as to what you are really after, its kinda hard to tell from how you've worded your post. Let us know! ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html

First, there are no stupid questions. Here is a bit of info I had posted on zcar.com about a week ago. Going to cut and paste it. ---Start quote--- There are two basic layouts of a turbo system using carbs. One is a "blow through" system, where the compressed air is blown through the carbs and then into the engine. This system allows intercooling, and is all around a better setup than the other carb'd system. The other system, and the one to which I think you are referring is a "draw through" system. The carb is mounted BEFORE the turbo charger and the turbo sucks air and fuel through it. This is really a poor design. 1st, your 1 carb will ice up at any ambiant temperatures below 60F. 2nd, you run the risk of the fuel puddling out of the air/fuel mixture as it travels. Any low point in the system will end up with puddles. One way around this is to heat up all associated piping after the carb to keep the fuel vaporized. Umm, adding heat to a turbo system is NOT a good idea. 3rd you cannot intercool. Period. 4th, the way it works out is that each cylinder is fed by the 1 carb, 1 at a time. Over carboration to the extreme. You'll find that carbs are difficult at best to setup for either type of system. The key is to maintain the proper air/fuel ratio throughout the rpm range, which can be tricky. Often carbs are setup for the correct a/f ratio at idle and part throttle only, and what happens at full throttle is a mystery to most people! Also when using a blow through system you need to be sure the carb is prepped to handle higher than atmospheric pressures. If you were to use SU's for instance, you may notice air and fuel leaking out around the throttle shafts when the carbs are under pressure. Trust me on this, an EFI turbo system is a much better design. Fuel is not carried throughout the system, instead injected at the point of combustion. Intercooling is easy. You can more easily adjust air/fuel ratios at any rpm. No special carb prep. If you want to learn more, try reading Maximum Boost by Corky Bell. ---End quote--- I hope this helps, and I really very highly recommend Maximum Boost! Yes indeed, one excellent book. Feel free to ask away if you need more info. ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html [This message has been edited by Drax240z (edited December 09, 2000).]

I would think that if you were relocating to the grille area, nearly any signals you can find could be used! You'll have a small amount of customizing for the grille and a bracket goes, but it shouldn't be very hard at all. I believe 99% of turn signals are the same when it comes to the wiring end. My advice is to search the local wreckers for something you like and go for it. (I'd take into consideration how easy it will be to find a replacement though) ie: don't use the ferrari ones, use the toyota ones. ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html

First off, yes all the materials for making fibreglass parts are readily available all over the place. To make a proper piece you really need a mold made up. (basically a negativ of the piece you want to make) I'd strongly suggest finding a fibreglass book in your local bookstore and giving it a read. Its pretty nasty stuff to work with, but with a few percautions, you'll be safe. Wear gloves of some kind (latex works), and find a respirator that will filter resins. Best to do it in an open air environment as well. To make custom pieces without a mold or another piece to copy off of is difficult. It is possible, but it requires a lot more work. 99% of the fibreglass stuff you see on peoples cars is purchased through companys like motorsports auto, or arizona z car. (for example) Its not that expensive because they make a lot of them and materials are cheap. A good place to find out more is anyone that does boat repairs. They probably use fibreglass more than anyone. ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html

Well I know of one in courtenay, bc, and 1 in vancouver, bc. Neither of which will do you any good at all... Kep you eyes open, you'll find one. ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html

I talked to the guy that made Evan's spacers, you can contact him at: A71240Z@aol.com He quoted me $200US for a set of 4, plus shipping. This was to go from the stock datsun pattern to a 4x100mm setup. And includes studs. Ross Corrigan also has some connections for slip on style spacers that seemed like a good price. ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html

Fill out your profile and let us know where you are from... I know of one, but more than likely its a few thousand KM away... ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html

The impellor shouldn't freewheel however. Using your fingers on either side, you should be ble to spin it smoothly, but with some resistance. (just the way the bearings work when they don't have oil) Definately check the oil inlet and outlet for coking. (black oil sludge, can be crystalized) If its blocking the passages, its toast. As for the engine, about the only thing you can do is a compression or leakdown test without pulling it apart. Most wreckers do one of those when they get the engine in, so they know if they can sell it as working or not. (at least in canada, but it might be law here) I bought one that didn't pass inspection, and they marked NFG. I found no problems with it. Apparently if its uneven compression they can't sell it as good, because they by law here have to give a 30 day warrenty. ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html

Its really a simple swap. I believe all you need is the R200 pumpkin, and the moustache bar. Do yourself a favor and get urethane moustache bar bushings and a new diff mount. There are a few sites out there that have instructions how to do the swap. Try zhome.com, or bryan little's garage page. ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html

Morgan I am 90% sure that if you use an S30 from 73 or later, they'll be the same. Not sure about the T5, but I would wager if you use the T5 and T5 driveshaft together, you'll have no problems with any Z 73-83. ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html

I actually found some locally. What I did was phone New Jersey at the number on POR-15's site, and asked them about distributors, they were able to tell me where the closest one is. One thing I noticed about POR-15, I always seem to use less than I had thought I would. The stuff is really thin and goes a long way, so pour sparingly. ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html

Tom, I absolutely love that quote. The only L28 I've seen with a supercharger on it was in some pictures over in the zdriver.com photoalbum. In the 70-78 section. I believe the gentleman still owns the car, and his email address should be on that page as well. I do not know if its a JCR setup. "Never underestimate the power of a group of stupid people." -Anon ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html

Thanks Dan. I am pretty sure I know of someone using the L28 pistons, but he had them all milled down on the top for compression and clearance reasons. And more than likely he would have used the L28 rods too. ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html