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myzblubyu

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Posts posted by myzblubyu

    Identify an old wide body kit

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted · Edited by myzblubyu

     I acquired these fiberglass body panels back in 2011.  I have not seen any panels like it.  Just sitting on my ‘72 Z they resemble the Greenwood Corvette IMSA car from the early ‘70s.  Would anyone on here know anything about the kit?  Supposedly they were purchased in 1979 at the swap meet in Carlisle Pa and were made for an IMSA 240z. They set in a barn in Pa until I got them.  The only piece missing is the rear hatch spoiler.
    thanks in advance.

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    How much did everyone spend on their V8 Conversion?

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    Mine was fairly cheap. I have a 77 280z and I made my engine mounts out of 2x2 square tubing and some 1/4 flat sheet metal I had laying around and also the made my own tranny mount out of 1x1 square tubing and bolts and stuff laying around the shop. Had to buy some grade 8 bolts and what not but I didn't buy any of that jtr crap. I didn't like how the motors fit and shoved so far out front in the engine bay. My distributor is only like a 1/4in from the fire wall and I had to remove my hood latch but I wanted hood pins anyways. So you figure for bolts and the tubing and flat sheet mteal for the engine mounts and tranny mounts cost less than 50 bucks and I had the driveline made for another 50 bucks and im running summit street rod or block hugger headers that were like 150 bucks or something and im running a stock radiator with a electric fan with shroud out of a volvo that fits from corner to corner on the radiator perfectly and it doesn't get hot at all. Takes 30 mins of idleing to get the thermostat to open just sitting there. But really if your looking at the cost of initial swap and your just talking about dropping the motor in and tranny in you can do it for under 250 bucks if you build the stuff yourself and not buy the stupid kit from jtr. Otherwise you can be nose heavy like everyone else out there and basically waste a ton of money on something that is soooo easy and cheap to make. Literally

    Pictures??? The only way mt car will idle for "30 min" before the t-stat opens is if I forgot to put it in....lol

    ZZ 383 8 inch harmonic balancer

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted · Edited by myzblubyu

    The R180 will likely go south in a hurry. It will be interesting to see the car after the IMSA kit is installed. Did you buy the ZZ383 as a long or short block assembly? Which cylinder heads are on the ZZ383? Which intake manifold are you going to use for the TEC3 system? Please advise. Thanks.

    The IMSA kit is the one in my gallery. I'm either going to keep the FIRST TPI system (is on it currently) or use my polished HSR (Holley stealth ram). I bought it to put on my IROC, but after installing it my factory hood would not shut without taking off the insulation, so I went back to my factory TPI. The HSR gives it a more muscle look and I can switch injectors very easy. The heads are GM aluminum fully ported, 2.02 valves and 1.6 roller rockers. I'm running a LT4 hot cam with 526 lift, very street able. The 383 was built using a ZZ4 long block using all forged internals. I'll try and post some pictures tomorrow... Later...

    ZZ 383 8 inch harmonic balancer

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    There is a lot of work to be done on my 240Z. I need to remove the sub-frame rails as both sides of these are bent upwards. I have the Bad Dog frame rails that need to be installed. Also need to precision align the rear of the T56 trans in relation to the R200 differential. Then fab the rear trans mount to the Bad Dog frame rails. Need to convert the front brakes to much better ones. Fix the cracked Dash. Put a new fuse panel and several relays and wiring. Reinstall the Dash and new gauges. Fab roll cage. New seats. Just a lot of stuff to do.

     

    The engine is done and run-in with the TEC3 system. The T56 trans needs some weak spots fixed. Suspension has been modified all around. So, there is still a lot of work to be done. Finally the temperature is starting to go down into the moderate range. I am limited on income as I am retired and on Social Security. Wanted to road race but my wife says I am too old for that. I differ. It is really good to carry on these discussions with you. Thanks a bunch.

    I always loved the falls in AZ., the best time of the year to work on cars. I restored 3 Zs in Tucson, wished I still had them all... I always tell my wife, "that I'll never be too old for fast cars". Money is always the key to finishing a project, so I'm going to sell my IROC-Z to finish mine. Hopefully by next spring I'll be finished and on the road. I'm wanting to make molds of my body kit before I install it. I have to install the rear quarters of my IMSA kit before I can install a C4 diff. I'm going to put the motor and trans in next month and probably destroy the factory R180 within a week, I'll see how strong it is...

    ZZ 383 8 inch harmonic balancer

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    There is not anything better than Arizona Z Car Wilwood front brakes. Understand the R200 is expensive. The Dana 44 rear setup should be fine. Not sure what type of cam sensor you have in a ZZ383 engine. The type of fuel injection system I use is the same as yours an Electromotive TEC3 system set up as sequential injection. Without the cam sensor hooked up it is wired as 4 cylinders injected at the same time in a batch mode. This means that fuel is being injected to 4 at a time, then the other 4 are injected. In this mode there is fuel injected when the some of the cylinders have the intake valve closed. In the sequential mode it is individual cylinders that are injected one at a time at the proper induction intake time to an open intake valve on each cylinder.

     

    I have researched many fuel injection systems for GM engines and the TEC3 is by far the most configurable and tunable be it normally aspirated or boosted. No hassle with MAF sensors. The blend of Throttle position and MAP sensor is absolutely fantastic for high performance engines. The basic timing structure is very solid for both ignition and fuel. Back when, GM was not as advanced as Electromotive concerning both timed ignition and fuel injection. Nice to have easily tunable ignition and fuel curves.

    I love GM fuel injection systems. I owned several cars with the TPI system and LT1 f-bodies. My daily driver is a 1990 IROC-Z with a slightly built factory 5.7L. I'm on thirdgen.org with the same screen name as here. I bought the Buick already complete with everything hooked up. This weekend I need to take a picture of the cam sensor and send it to you. You might be able to give me some insight on it. I would like to hook it up as sequential injected, it should give me slightly more HP and better gas mileage. I will be driving this car weekly when it's finished,I'm not a trailer queen kind of guy. I rebuilt my current 240Z when I lived in Tucson back in 2003, after the build we couldn't get it thru emissions. Too high compression, 10.6 to 1, and to big of cam, don't no the specs but it is a factory stamped Nissan cam out of a Bre car (sounded like a cammed small block). I had to put the factory cam back in so it would pass. I now live in Virginia where there is no emissions just safety inspections so anything is possible. The cam, lash pads and rockers are still sitting in a box in my garage, one day I will use it.... When do you expect to get your Z on the road?

    ZZ 383 8 inch harmonic balancer

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    The Fluidamper is built by Fluidamper. I know that the 8" damper and trigger wheel will cause interference. Therefore went with 6 1/4" damper and 7" trigger wheel. The TEC3 multi-port fuel injection without a cam sensor is a batch fired injection system. The TEC3 with a cam sensor is a SEQUENTIAL multi-port fuel injection system. Using the R200 and CV half-shaft conversion takes much less fabrication. What type of pictures do you want? The original drum brakes should be sufficient. It is the front brakes that will need upgrade because CG will shift forward under braking with more weight on the front versus the rear.

    I'm going to run the ArizonaZCar Wilwood front brake set-up. I looked and the only lsd R200 that I can find around Va is very exspensive combined with building the CV and getting stonger stubs. I can get a complete Dana 44 covette diff. (disc to disc) for less and with my wide body there will not be that much fabrication. I have the cam sensor in my car but it's not wired up. How much of a difference will it make to hook it up? What type of injection system are you using? Thanks

    ZZ 383 8 inch harmonic balancer

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted · Edited by myzblubyu

    myzblubyu: I went the same route with a 383 stroker and TEC3. Used 6 1/4" fluidamper balancer and 7" trigger wheel. Used a '96-'99 Vortec Distributor as the camshaft sensor so as to enable sequential fuel injection. With the Vortec Distributor the cap and rotor can be thrown away and a top plate can be purchased. Need to obtain a mating connector for the distributor and supply +12volts to the distributor Hall Effect sensor. Also running a T56 6 speed. Swapped in a R200 Clutch Limited Slip Diff, beefy stub axles and CV joint half shafts. Still working on the subframe and rear trans mount.

    [/quot

    What brand fluidamper did you use? I understood that some aftermarket dampers would not work with the trigger wheel. I'm not running a cam sensor since I'm running a multi port fuel injection system, so I'm good there. This set-up has been in my Buick Regal for 3-4 years and still running very well. I considered getting a beefed up R200, but with the cost of setting one up I can fab in a C4 rear and already have 12" disc brakes and I can use my 17x10 rims without doing adapters in the rear. I have a good friend that builds Outlaw drag cars and he will build my subframe along with my chambered dual exhaust. I'm hoping to get everything together for the transplant by the end of next month. All I need is a complete C4 rear, frame mounts and trans mount (going to base it off of the JTR mount). Do you have any pictures? Moved from Tucson back in 2004 and My family and I miss it... Thanks...

    700r4 surging

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted · Edited by myzblubyu

    Its been a while. Getting back to the Z now.

    I have a ZZ4 crate engine and a 700r4 that had been sitting in my garage for 8 years or so and put it in my 72 240.

    I got it all in and running. During the first few tuning runs it ran "ok". Then the next day I could not get it to go into drive or reverse. After checking the fluid level and scratching my head for a few days, I started it and it just went into gear like nothing was wrong. Now the transmission is surging. Like its going in and out of gear. I took it to a local trans shop and they said the pan was full of clutch material.

    The question is. Do I get another 700r4 from Bowtie Overdrives for $1500? Fix this one with better parts recommended by you knowledgable people for less? Or a different type trans all together?

     

    You can rebuild yours to handle 500+ horsepower for less than 1500.... I have this Pro-Built kit in my '84 Buick Regal with a ZZ383 and it's awesome... http://www.700r4l60e.com/store/product.php?productid=41&cat=19&page=1 My '90 IROC-Z also has a Pro-Build kit in it. A friend owns a garage and he put it together for $250.00 and I'm running 11s all day long and after 12,000 hard miles not 1 problem. The motor is coming out this month to go in my '72 240z with a T56... You can go to thirdgen.org and search pro-build and see how good the kits are. They are located in Ca and they can build yours... Enjoy...

    ZZ 383 8 inch harmonic balancer

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    I'm ready to start building my 240z. I'm trying to figure out which frame mount adapters I need to get. The motor is a ZZ383 stroker and it has the large 8" harmonic balancer. I'm also running a crank trigger ( http://www.emi.cc/triggerkits/220-72808.html ) and i can't go to the smaller balancer. I don't have a distributor since I using a Electromotive TEC3 ( http://www.emi.cc/products/tec3.html ) with coil packs and a FIRST fuel injection system ( www.firstfuelinjection.com ). I'm using a '97 T56 6-speed and I'm planning to install a Dana 44 C-4 rear (to handle 450hp and 500ft lbs of torque). I'm not worried about rear end width since I'm putting my IMSA body kit on it. Can the JTR kit work with modification or do I need to make my own. This engine with 411 rear and a 700r4 put my 3400lb '84 Buick Regal in the high 11s in the quarter. So this should be fun in a 2400lb 240z... Thanks

    Can anyone identify this body kit??

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    have not been able to find the Z I remember seeing in the old mag, it would have been "HOT ROD SHOW WORLD" either '77 or '78 annual. I've got 6 of them but only found 4 the other 2 must be in another box.

     

    back to the point... It reminds me more of the Greenwood corvette than the batmobile... for that reason i have to say I kinda like it.

     

    I see what your point. After researching Greenwood IMSA corvettes I think that it could be a knockoff... Greenwood did have several guys working and driving for him that had a Datsun background. Check out the corvette fiberglass quarter...

     

    http://www.greenwoodcorvettes.com/Promo/Literature/GTOBro2.jpg

    Can anyone identify this body kit??

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    have not been able to find the Z I remember seeing in the old mag, it would have been "HOT ROD SHOW WORLD" either '77 or '78 annual. I've got 6 of them but only found 4 the other 2 must be in another box.

     

    back to the point... It reminds me more of the Greenwood corvette than the batmobile... for that reason i have to say I kinda like it.

     

    If you do find the magazine, would you be able to scan and email the article to me?? Thanks

    Can anyone identify this body kit??

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted · Edited by myzblubyu

    Hehe.. I was thinking that. It has that unique factor, but I'm definitely not a fan. The lines from the guards to the door don't look to match up very well at all..

     

    Dave

     

     

    Actually the lines are very good, it's the overlying of the panels that makes it looks bad. The fender is a direct rplacement, it was off big time just hanging on the original fender. I wanted to get an idea what it would look like and for those on this site. I was hoping that someone could identify it. The kit is very unique and should make my 240Z very different. For $200.00 I couldn't go wrong...lol

    Can anyone identify this body kit??

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    I was going to suggest buying them and making molds but if a set already exist... why bother. Interest would be a factor also

     

     

    This is the kit from Ebay... I picked it up last weekend and there is no stamping on the inside. The seller told me that his father bought this kit over twenty years ago in Carlisle, Pa... I have never seen this body kit before. The front fender is a bolt in, door is a skin and factory rear quarter would need to be cut and the fg put on with adhesive... How hard is it to make molds of these pieces??

    Can anyone identify this body kit??

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    Stolen for the price. I too have never seen that kit, it may have a stamp or marking on the back side of 1 or more of the panels.

    I will be picking the panels up this coming Sat. I'll post on here if I find a name or a stamping on it. I seen most of the kits out there andbthis one reminds me of theb1980 IMSA GTO /GTU 280zx. I'll be putting this on my green '72 along with a built ZZ4 engine topped off with a FIRST fuel injection system and a stand olone computer with distributor less ignition. Now I need a rear diff. The motor is currently in a '84 Buick Regal and it ran in the high 11s. This will be my winter project with my oldest boys, Automotive Technology 101, first I need to get my '90 IROC out of my garage...

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