DREW RBZ

You should go all out and do a triple intercooler setup. :-/

Thanks for doing a write up. Watching with interest.

Check out this thread with reference to Wolf Creek Racing CV's....post 30 and post 33 are photos of my Wolf Creek Racing CV's . I have 586rwhp/430tq. It looks like the company has been kept alive with a new owner. I am not sure if there have been any changes to the CV's with new ownership though. Modern Motorsports kit looks pretty sweet. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123979-modern-motorsports-cv-axle-coversion-kit/page-2

Thanks for sharing. Please post your impressions once out on the road. Nice car by the way!

I have run clutches from Ottawa Clutch, right in your own backyard. They will set you up with whatever your needs are for a deccent price. As for off the shelf...I have also used ACT clutches....had a 6 puck sprung clutch in a 3.0 liter turbo stroker setup. Reasonably priced and held up to a lot of abuse.

Absolutely! I would be very interested

That is interesting about the unit sagging. Can you elaborate any more on this? Did you have any discussion with the vendor regarding your findings?

Going away for the winter

All four cages have similar damage. The damage is also to both sides of the cages. The balls themselves appear to be in fairly decent shape but do feel a little rough (very small scratches/pitting). The star gears and outer cases show some minor sign of wear (shiny areas). It appears that these cages are the weak link in the CV however I do not profess to be any kind of expert in this field. Here are a couple more photos:

I wanted to add my 2 cents to this thread in relation to the wolf creek racing "porsche style" cv axle kit. I installed these on my car and have done approximately 2000 miles since. I had always been aware/annoyed of the amount of "slop" or play in the rear end since installing these axles and the play seemed to get progressively worse with added mileage. I run new quaife 4.11 differential with chequered flag racing chromoly stubs. Diff is supported by a ron taylor diff mount on top and stock mount on bottom (no movement). Driveshaft is custom with new upgraded u -joints. This car is not drag raced and I do not do hard launches for the record. Fast forward to last week. The rear end was getting very annoying...letting off gas/ starting off would result in more play/slop in the rear end and there was a bit more noise from the rear end. I decided to pull the rear end and have things checked out. The diff and diff bearings are perfect...the driveshaft and joints are perfect...the diff mounts are solid. So I pulled apart the CV axles and found that the "Porsche style" CV cages were chewed up and worn/pitted badly. Took the assembly to a local CV shop that does custom work for various high performance cars. The tech advised that the CV axles had damage to the CV's in particular the cages which in his opinion were not high quality. (Wolf creek racing states on their site that they use chromoly cages with hardened races???). I thought this would be of interest to those considering this setup. I would not recommend the wolf creek racing axle kit, especially you V8 high torque guys... Here are a few photos of one of the disassembled CV's with photos of the damage and a diagram of a CV and related bits.

Hey guys. I am currently running dual external bosch 044 pumps which are mounted under the car however they were pretty loud as well. I ended up wiring in an aeromotive fuel pump controller. The pumps are much quieter at idle and lower rpm but ramp up as rpm increases. Go to their website for more detail. It made a big difference in cabin noise.

I'm in! subscribed

Right on! Very happy for you. The torque is what is most impressive. Love the 30/26 combo. That thing is going to be a beast.

Congrats! Nicely done. How did the car feel at the top end?

Wow!! That is awesome !! Glad to hear some good news..happy for you

I let my LSD r200 diff sit for 3 years while rebuilding the car. The diff also has the extra clutches in place of the stock spacers. I had similar to what you describe when I put the diff back in and took it for a drive. Didn't seem to matter how many figure eights I did. I then took the diff apart and sure enough the surface rust/corrosion as described by JohnC was the issue. Noise was horrible when turning slowly...sounded like someone hitting the pumpkin with a hammer. Cleaned it up, put in new fluid with added friction modifier and problem solved.

Found this link on ebay. Has anyone here by chance tried this product. Would be very interested to hear if the fitment was decent or not. I have limited experience with upholstery work and have no idea of how difficult this would be to install properly. http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLACK-LEATHER-DASH-DASHBOARD-LEATHER-COVER-FITS-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-280Z-1970-1974-/351222196587?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51c679696b&vxp=mtr

Thanks for the advice John. Will give that a try.

Is there anything that can be done to the steering rack/system in some way to dampen this effect. Sorry if this sounds simplistic but this is really not an area where I have much understanding.

Looks fantastic! Very well done....keep up the awesome work.

I run a single bosch 044, -6an Peterson fuel filter and -6an feed line pulling from a fuel cell. Works great and just dynoed at 586rwhp. If you are just running the inline pump from the cell/sump make sure it is mounted as low as possible as it is gravity fed and does not like to pull fuel. I put it too high the first time around and it would start to whine pretty good once it got hot and the tank began to empty.

Wow!!! What a time capsule. Amazing find! Congrats!

PLEASE DELETE*** Going with Quaife unit.

Looking for an R200 Limited slip diff. Thanks, Andrew

Found one....thanks... PLEASE DELETE