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dbirdz06

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Posts posted by dbirdz06

  1. Heck no! In bracket racing the fastest car doesn't necessarily win. The most consistent, experienced, wisest driver wins. I got beaten by a car two seconds slower. Moral of the story: 1) if you wanna good drag car, use a powerglide. 2) if you opponent looks like Curly from "City Slickers", take the money and run! I've been working with a pedal operated practice tree, but I gotta wire it to work off the clutch pedal in my car. On the to do list. Why do windshield wipers and a heater keep getting knocked further down the list? It was still really fun and educational.

     

    Sounds like you had a great time.  Sounds like you're enjoying your car too!

  2. I have a '72 240z with '98 LS1/T56 swap in progress.  It's not road ready, but I was to a point where the car would fire up and idle every time.  I just recently installed Speedhut gauges (GPS speedo, tach, water temp, oil temp, oil press) and couldn't get the car to turn over and start.  Did some research and determined it to be the white & white/red wires going to the stock ammeter gauge.  Last night I went out to connect those, and also hook up an idiot light to the alternator but I had no power to any guages and the car wouldn't turn over.  I do have power to the head lights and gauge lights.

     

    Battery is fully charged.

     

    I had 2 blown 20A glass fuses, and 1 10A glass fuse.  I replaced those, no change.  Not sure why they blew in the first place but I'll be watching them to see if they blow again.

     

    I checked all the fuses in my aftermarket relay/fuse box.  All fine.

     

    My only other thoughts were the fusible links or accessory relay.  I'm not positive I've found the fusible link or if it's even used now.   Is there anything else obvious that I should be checking for?

     

    Please help me chase down this gremlin!!

  3. I just took mine off yesterday to install a new Arizona Z bar.  I have energy suspension bushings to be included-the old bushings have been removed- make me an offer.  I can have it shipped monday or tuesday.

    PM sent

  4. There are several threads on hybridZ involving those parts. I actually found that info here, as posted by NZeder, I think. He was trying to find a way to make the Nismo 30 Spline LSD work.

     

    You can always just order that axle from the parts store too. That still doesn't solve the stub axle problem, but I think there is another easy solution for that too...not sure yet.

     

    As for it being a real option, I've been driving on that solution for a year now. I'd hope it was real!

     

    You're right, I just hadn't seen them yet.  I'm still trying to figure out what to do with mine. 

  5. If you're trying to keep this cheap and easy, you've missed the mark by a mile.

     

    Stock Z31T driver's center bar gets swapped to the passenger side. You've already got this if you have the Z31T axles.

    Stock 1990-92 OR 1993 WD21 Pathfinder 4x4 front driver's center bar gets fitted in the driver's side. This is a 10$ part in the U-pull yard.

     

    Using the 1993 center bar, you run a larger spacer, about 1.25" thick on the driver's side. 1990-1992 will need a thinner spacer, as the axle is STILL shorter than you need it to be, but not AS short. Spacer thickness for the 1990-1992 axle will be less. The spacer thickness depends on if you have bolt-through companion flanges or the threaded companion flanges, as they are going to be different thicknesses. Not a huge deal to measure out, either.

     

    Done. No binding, no problems.

     

    How'd you come about this info?  I've been searching all over the place trying to find a solution and this is the first I've seen of the Pathfinder 4x4 front driver's side axle.  Not saying you're wrong by any means, just curious if this is actually an option.

     

    Either way, I'm all :popcorns: in this thread.  Looking for a solution!

     

    Keep up the good work.

  6. After looking at it i didnt think there was anyway to get an exhuast pipe to sit higher than the oil pan (in between the manifold and starter) but it looks like it is possible. Im hoping with my car being as low as it is it will still work.

     

    CrayZ,

     

    What part of Houston are you located?  There can't be many white Z's running around and I saw one about a month ago near Fairfield, 290 & Mason area.  It made me want to paint mine white!

  7. Yeah, cheese-I read your posts while searching for a solution. Seemed like all your problems went away by upgrading to a bigger master cyl. Somehow, mnoel has only a 3/4" clutch master and has no trouble. I had the car on jackstands looking for leaks and went ahead and shifted it into gear and the rear wheels started spinning even with the clutch depressed. So, I just kept lengthening my clutch adjustment rod (darn near all the way out) until the rear tires no longer spun with the clutch depressed. For all I know the clutch may be full of cobwebs! So, I'll go thru all that stuff again before I try to get back out on the road. I figure I'll be finding surprises for a while everytime I drive it. My absolute deadline for having car at the racetrack is May 5th for 2-days of SCCA autocrossing in Little Rock just before my best friend's son goes off to West Point. Perhaps, I will run into the legendary Terry Oxendale (Blue Oval Z) there. I still have to do my R200 LSD swap, alignment and exhaust, probably in that order.

     

    Anybody can call me with questions (256-366-4685) when they do their swap. I was so bad about double purchasing parts-it would be a joy to help somebody thru this swap, although it seems there are so many different ways to skin a cat.

     

    Does this forum ever host national or regional get-togethers? I'd love to be able to thank so many of you personally.

     

    I'm right in the middle of my swap and I may have to take you up on your offer to call. Thanks for posting so much in your build thread. It's helped a lot.

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