montana280z

More on the Z: figured out MSD - tech support had me use the white wire instead of mag pickup - works now! Got my exhaust done from downpipe out. Made enuf difference that stock n/a clutch (which had plenty of meat) wouldn't hang on anymore. I then installed my turbo clutch and flywheel 240mm and the '82 zx 5 speed. Its nice to have legs on the highway now! Any feed back on my A/f ratios?

I got cranky and rewired stock ign - runs like a charm now. I also installed my wide band a/f ratio gauge - here's what I found: The z was running extremely rich, a fact confirmed by very soot covered plugs. I made some very drastic adjustments to the AFM - spring very tight. My idle af ratio now sits around 10.8:1. As I accelerate off-boost (and cruise) the mixture runs from 13:1 to 15.5:1, as close as I can get to the magic 14.7:1. However, as soon as the boost comes on, the ratio drops to 11.3:1 or so and pretty much stays there until 5500 rpm when the little turbo runs out of breath. I am surprised to find that it is NOT leaning out as I expected it would running a 6:1 FMU and stock fuel pump. Is this rich boost mixture going to cause serious damage? Would an adjustable FMU be a solution until I MegaSquirt?

Well... I have just about given up on the MSD 6BTM. I think the unit is faulty and the MSD tech support team is of little help. The car starts and runs, but surges as if only firing on 3 at a time. I have changed plugs, ohmed out mag pickup (607 as rotor nipple passes magnet), and checked plug wires. I am using the 8920 tach adapter - white wire to MSD tach output, red to 12v switched, black to chassis ground, and purple to 280z blue (coil -). The 6btm is wired as per speeders diagram here -> http://rick.thebowersplace.com/pix/MSDZ.gif. I also disconnected the stock ignition and bypassed tach resistor. Ideas?

NewZed - the fencepost (aluminum) is flattened, cut and mounted using the studs from the struts (all three). I at least hope I'm adding functionality, 'cause the thing is annoying as hell and my dogs hate it. I have, however, noticed a distinct reduction in interior plastic creaking since install. Noodle - The orange regulator is actually the fmu. I was told to plumb this inline after the stock regulator. I hope this is correct! Tony - Is there an aftermarket short shifter that has a different pivot point for more mechanical advantage?

X2 on the turbo. Just finished slapping an L20et (small) turbo on my '76, and I love it. Acts like a supercharger! You're probably going to have to deal with detonation control with a high compression N/A block, so why not have the turbo power and cool turbo noises?

Sorry about the ...not double, but triple!!... post - my internet sucks sometimes

The last attached thumb is of temporary mounting of boost gauge. I have ordered an AEM a/f gauge w/ wideband to see what fuel is doing in upper rpm range and will mount the two together somewhere (ideas?). I do, however, like having the boost in front of the tach. The five speed thats going in w/ turbo clutch, flywheel, and new rear main seal next week sometime. Very custom fencepost strut bar! Has anyone here made their own "short throw" shifter by cutting down a stock one and either threading or mounting the knob in another fashion? I kinda hate paying for something I can make myself with my limited fab skills.

The last attached thumb is of temporary mounting of boost gauge. I have ordered an AEM a/f gauge w/ wideband to see what fuel is doing in upper rpm range and will mount the two together somewhere (ideas?). I do, however, like having the boost in front of the tach. The five speed thats going in w/ turbo clutch, flywheel, and new rear main seal next week sometime. Very custom fencepost strut bar! Has anyone here made their own "short throw" shifter by cutting down a stock one and either threading or mounting the knob in another fashion? I kinda hate paying for something I can make myself with my limited fab skills.

The last attached thumb is of temporary mounting of boost gauge. I have ordered an AEM a/f gauge w/ wideband to see what fuel is doing in upper rpm range and will mount the two together somewhere (ideas?). I do, however, like having the boost in front of the tach. The five speed thats going in w/ turbo clutch, flywheel, and new rear main seal next week sometime. Very custom fencepost strut bar! Has anyone here made their own "short throw" shifter by cutting down a stock one and either threading or mounting the knob in another fashion? I kinda hate paying for something I can make myself with my limited fab skills.

Sorry to take so long with pics. Heres engine bay with 6btm mounted but not wired (waiting on tach adapt) My plan is to run stock n/a initial timing with locked dizzy and use btm to retard (slightly) on boost. Other side of engine.

I am absolutely giddy right now! BOV came in the mail, threw it on, double checked everything and took it for a spin. I had a turbo subaru back in the day, but nothing like this! It sounds freaking awesome! WHIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIINE, WHOOSH! Pulls like a mother, too. THANK YOU TO ALL WHO ANSWERED MY DUMB NEWBIE QUESTIONS!!! I don't know if I would have had the confidence to undertake this without your help. I'll take some final pics tomorrow when its light out. Should I go ahead and install the MSD box and leave the boost retard setting low? The multi spark might be nice down low. I haven't taken the tach past 4500, but I haven't heard/felt detonation.

Thanks to all for the copper washer advise, it worked like a charm! No more leaky turbo! I also found main cause of rich-as-hell idle - it was a bullet connector on the wires leading to temp sensor. I gave the carbon trace potentiometer some spring preload, but it may need some more as the idle seems to smooth out and speed up a little when I push back on it. Also found the reason fuel pressure gauge drops to zero after a few minutes - leaky fuel line @ pump. Now that she starts and idles smoothly, I can't wait for the BOV and a test drive!

Does anyone recommend teflon thread tape as an extra measure (on the threads of course)? Any feed back on the AFM adjustment? Makes sense that it would run rich at idle with the bigger injectors (remember I have only started, idled, and revved to maybe 1000 at this point). I want to wait for the BOV before I test drive. Ignition advance: Being that I have already welded the mech advance AND purchased the BTM, what are your recommendations?

Update! Installed AFM, Locked distributor, attached downpipe to old exhaust. Everything hooked up temporarily for start/idle test. I wanted to make sure car would run before I tackled msd retard ignition (also waiting on blow off valve). Starts and runs! Problems: Banjo bolt @ turbo leaks even when really tightened - should I order new, or is there a better fix? Idles very rich and rough - I push back hard on afm counterweight and she smooths out quite a bit. Is this going to be a drastic adjustment (lots of teeth on the gear) to lean it out?

Intake manifold, injectors, fuel rail, stock fpr, fmu installed. Starting to get crowded in there. What's the best (easiest, cheapest) way to do AFM to turbo? Can I supply both fpr and fmu with the same vac line from the manifold (tee), or should I run separate? Up next: locking dizzy, temporary attachment of downpipe to old exhaust, MSD retard, bov on j-pipe, bosch 044 fuel pump, fuel rail gauge, boost gauge,