miamiKnights

i really like the 3m disc method. Can i attach these wheels on a regular craftman/sears home drill? How? I noticed it only strips out a line the width of a pencil. Do the wheels leave a clean run the first time? how fast would you say the hood would take to strip with the 3m wheel? thanks

5 gallons, man i didnt know what i was getting myself into. if it takes that much its not worth it at all to get liquid paint stripper, atleast money ivested in a tool could be used more than once.

check this paint stripper liquid, eviromentaly safe... how much would i need to cover the car? thanks http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=751&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=467&iSubCat=473&iProductID=751

i didnt realize that you didnt have to sand down to bare metal. I was going to spray the metal down with por-15 antirust, if i sand with your technique will the por-15 still work? Are you worried of rust popping up in the future, or did you use another anit-rust method. I just want to do this right the first time, or most efective with my budget. was the electric sander radial of belt?

I am going to start body work on my '72 240z. Buying the harbor freight welder; i have already have a 4" angle grider and sawzall with metal blades. I would like to know what is the best way to remove paint, or what tool is best. I saw on the mull videos a jackhammer with a spatula on the end being used to remove paint;however, i have also heard of radial sanders and sand blasting as an alternative. Which do you believe would the best according to price, user friendly, and results. Thank you.

Thanks for all you help hybrid z forums and members, drove my 240z around the block today. Replaced to pertronix worked like a charm. z runs real strong, starts with no hesitation. that new coil is awesome. thanks everyone.

thanks for bearing with me. i didn't even know that z forums like this existed until about a month ago:biggrin:; i was just fixing my z with a haynes manual and asking my mechanics ( Argentinian((with no schooling)) who owned 240 260 and 280 which he restored himself) words of wisdom and advice. when i started running into electrical problems and this guy left out of the country for a while i got really stuck thanks for the great info. i mean pertronix, msd, or more so the 3.1 stroker is all new and awesome to me. if there is anything else i might have to change down the line(like i just rebuilt the distributor for no reason because pertronix is just a better set up for me)...like you say pertronix is the first thing someone with a z invests in. what are the second or third things someone would invest in. what else should i have done to maybe avoid these problems or future problems. thanks

http://www.classicgarage.com/72.html is this the pertronix unit you mentioned earlier, how does this work. and do you believe it can help with the starting problem. if so im going to buy it, but its still a risk...i could use 80$ to polish my valve cover lol. would it be worth it im asking. your saying im having an igniting problem... because i replaced the coil, i disconnected the spark plug wire from the distributor cap and left it connected to the new coil. i held it down with my screw driver and rag next to the strut tower ground, i try to turn on the car. and spark does not come from the coil. tell me your thoughts on this.

i recieved my new coil and resistor ballast yesterday. i replaced parts accordingly. when i try to turn the car on it makes the same sound and motions. the starter spins, and the motor just keeps turning over and over. this has been happening since day one of no start 4 weeks ago. i replaced plugs, cables, rebuilt the distributor, double checed firing order, now i replaced the coil and ballast resistor. there is no spark coming from the coil. i have a multi voltage reader now. what do i specifically need to check to get this car to spark and turn over. thank you -miamiknights

hey guys im going to start body work soon and in the process of purchasing a welder. what it is a good welder to buy thats under 200$ reliable, user friendly, speed, and could also handle z gauge sheet metal. any prior experiences good or bad? thanks

nice little setup there. thanks for helping me on this you are getting me very close. there is no spark from the coil. now i could replace the coil and see if it works... but i would like to check if power is getting to the coil, or is there any other test that can pre determin the problem before i go on spending more money. i have the haynes manual but for me person to person is alot easier, little tricks and tips and i use the book for backup. thanks alot

i have twin s.u. with stock ignition. im going downstairs to check the coil. please clarify this " If you have a spark there, the problem lies between the coil and plugs." does that mean the problem is the distributor, or the coil?

how would i check if the coil is getting power, without a expensive electrical tester.

hey all alright just needed to take a step back and relax. 72' 240z is not creating spark. i changed the spark plugs and wires, i rebuilt the distributor, change condenser, point, rotor, and cap, then i triple checked the firing order to make sure wires were plugged in correctly. what is the next step in trying to solve this problem. still trying to get a camera! thanks alot