71stroker
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Posts posted by 71stroker
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Thanks for the input guys...i kinda had the feeling it was one of those
"shiny" type add ons that really dosnt do a whole lot...
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Looks pretty cool, but I'm not sure what it is. It almost looks like an L-series motor.
uneducated guess...
fairlady/432 motors?
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from what i gather is you are lowering the temp of your intake and or incoming fuel/ and or intercooler if turboed.
I found a pdf file of FAQ on thier website...
http://www.designengineering.com/images/faqs/FAQ006%20-%20CryO2%20System.pdf
It seems like a good idea to me..."cold air + cold fuel = a better "burn" for more horsepower....dont they use super cold fuel for rockets and such...
I was hoping maybe someone had tried this out and could give some info on performance gains
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Just wondering if anyone has / is using this system, does it work..how well it works..performance gains if any...
I just was reading the article in the latest nissan sport on the orange 240sx with the system installed.
cry02 website:
http://www.designengineering.com/products.asp?m=sp&pid=72&gclid=CKSQnKX6qZMCFQ0ziQod3Ba65Q
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It's getting so close to being done. Just needing to get megasquirt working and this bad boy will be alive!
OMG....those pics are scary
you going to the motorsport show??Lance
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So i got to pick up the car from the paintshop and i think it looks pretty darn good. The rolled rear pan is as smooth as a babies bottom. Now it is droped off at the interior shop. As you can tell there is nothing in it and no those teeny tiny speakers are not staying. It will have a much improved system.
Hey Brian!
I didnt know you were in HybirdZ ! Art mentioned it at the groupZ meeting the other nite...
Arts telling me he's getting close to being finished with your car too! I'd imagine you can barely wait to get your hands on it...
That motor is going to kick some serious Ass!
Now on the Legal side of things...I dont recall signing a release to allow my shop to be seen in those pics...!
(just kidding)
Nice to see your keeping a Journal of your progress in hybirdZ
We oughta all hook up at Arts for a "wrap" Lunch when its all done
Lance
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I have this one at home, and recently brought it to work when one of my shop compressors died...1 man using the compressor for like one to two hours would overheat it using a DA sander..
it runs on 120v plugged in..so id suggest looking at some other more heavy duty models.
I plan on doing some body work and grinding to get 30 years of rust and grease off of my 1978 280Z. This air compressor seems to have the best CFM rating for the price range, so I thought I'd pick it up this week. That is, unless someone knows of something better in the price range.I've been looking for used compressors for weeks now, and there has been nothing local.
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There are places you can get em done for around 300 for the pair, but in cali its getting hard to find due to strict enviromental laws which drives up the prices..
I just had a pair of 64 rancheros chromed for that price, but ill have to get the contact info at work tomarrow.
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To put in quotes on a pic just use the "paint" program in your Start>allprograms>accessories>paint in windows..once ytou open the pic in paint, on the left side tools, pick text, then use your mouse to make a box in the area you want. then type in your words.
And yea, in any filling situation after welding whatever holes up, or if your even just going over emblem holes then finish with fiberglass stranded filler...rather than bondo/plastic...its stronger...and wont crack so easy like bondo does.
now if your talking about repairing dents...pulling and reshaping the metal
then plastic filler is fine assuming your not throwing on a 1/2 inch thick coat...any metalwork should be as close as possible to the orginal shape
before any thought of bondo...
YA that what I am planning but do you have any in progress pics , I am planning on shaving the markers too, and actually the door handles and installing openers, if my son can source them, So are you saying use the fibreglass strains on all the car repairs or just the rear bumper?thanks for the reply , I have been trying to find some pics for awhile now. ONly diff mine is a 81 and it has a offset line on the lower side which has to be dealt with,
here is a pic while I was buying it
btw how do I add captions like you did above to pictures?
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LOL I know what you mean..I spent some time working at a bodyshop in east Philly, and i was amazed and what drove in for work,,cars missing whole sections of fenders, doors, floors, quarter panels..the kind of stuff I would send to the junkyard out here...and then these people would freak out when you would tell them its 800 dollars labor + the part to section in a quarter panel on thier (insert crappy car name here).....
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how did you do the rear end , I am shaving mine and was woundering what the procedure is, yours looks good . As well were did you get the front skirt? or did your local make that as well?
bob
Yep you need to weld in new metal plates, where the bumper bracket holes used to be then use a stranded fiberglass filler rather than plastic filler...(the plastic stuffs gonna crack one day...) I included a couple pics of a 280Z we just finished off, we shaved the whole back panel, all emblems, all side marker lights (illegal too..just like the bumper) lower rocker moulding holes etc...
and heres a couple "after" pics...sorry about how grainy the pics are I guess we didnt have the camera pixel-things set right lol
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damm you rode a motorcycle today...brrrrrr
only 3 feet!
LoL...the left guardian tree is sicking his tongue out... (the wife bought these damm things...) they are supposed to glow in the dark...(they dont and never have,,,,) cheap ass magazine catalog crap...
I thought i might have to repaint too but when I got home the stuff was magically gone....bizarre...
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I awoke today in beautiful Southern California (im a Native to So Cal.)
to find this strange substance all over my car...im not sure how to approach the issue. Do I just try to rub it off or do i need to use some sort of special removal process???
I did hear the guy on the news babbling about some sort of warning but...
didnt take it seriously..
I took a pic of this substance below....(large file bear with the delay.)
Any one who can help plz reply...
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Anyone remember that Pete Puma guy from bugs bunny cartoons...stupid puma would always fall for Bugs's line about "lumps" of sugar in his coffee
"i'll have two or threeeee" then bugs would smash in his skull w a sledge hammer lol
and of course Yogi Bear.."hey boo boo...lets get some pik-a-nik baskets"
He owned that Jellystone park lol..
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Good Idea Warren...
If your going white, ask your friend the cost on "PPG Omni" single stage arctic white pricing...you will be pleasantly surprised in the cost difference
and a single stage has what is called "intergrated or mixing" clear built-in to the formula...see below for single stage - base / clear mixes / costs
notice your not needing for example, 1 gallon clear, hardener, reducer...
these formulas are for a total MIX equaling an approx. amount needed to spray a car your size.
Single stage formula: per gallon
POLYCURE A 122.8
A/E CLEAR 1,472.5
GREEN BLUE 1.0
FERRIT YELLOW 2.0
OXIDE RED 2.6
STRONG BLACK 7.0
STRONG WHITE 1,513.3
MED REDUCER 448.5
SPEED HARDENR 611.7
cost: 235.42
Base / Clear 2 quarts
basecoat
WHITE 1176.0
L.S. BLUE 13.4
L.S. YELLOW 13.4
BLACK 13.4
REDUC HAPS FR 834.65
cost: 159.15
clearcoat per gallon
2.1 VOC CLEAR 2,603.1
2.1 MED REDUCER 677.9
2.1 CLR HARDENER 826.3
cost: 398.62
Go Cheap, do what I did...use only Tint Base and Catalyst...works fine, single stage. Clear will just make it harder to touch up or match should something happen to it. Alot of people think that single stage is prone to oxidation and whatnot, I say BS...as long as you keep your car clean and waxed like you should do any paint anyway, it's not gonna oxidize any faster than that fancy dancy Basecoat Clearcoat will. Colors are fine, but if you want it to look sleek, nice and uniform, just use white tint base. Your wallet will thank you big time in the end. -
after a horrible quote for $1,400 dollars worth of PPG victory red,clears and catalyst reducers ect. I decided to go with ARCTIC WHITE what do you guys think??
Im wondering what the quote for the White paint was??
And the way you worded the red quote im led to believe your just quoting the cost of the paint materials themselves?
And is this quote from a retail paint supply store or something?
I ask because the cost of mixing materials (clears/reducers/hardeners) is the same,
the only thing that should really be more expensive is the tint base itself.
(the red tint vs the white)
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Next question is, are you painting the car yourself or something? (is that why your buying the materials yourself?)
Because if your not, painting it yourself, and your planning on going to a paint shop with your paint, the shop probably gets a much better price
on paint materials than you can, and should be able to offer you a better
combined price on materials and the labor to shoot the car than if you do it seperatly.
and
If someone comes in to my shop wants the (for example) nice 2 stage paintjob (like victory red or arctic white or blue or green or yellow etc) they are going to get the same price...and i'll make a bit less on a red paintjob.... and make a bit more on the next white paintjob....
you going to the motorsport show??
cussing
in Site Support
Posted
I tend to agree with that.
Colorful language can be quite rewarding