Zsane

I found two part numbers listed, one for L24 and one for L28. Anyone know what the difference would be? L24: 9-4134SB (Rock Auto price $78.79 non stock item) L28: 9-4134SA (Rock Auto price $76.79 in stock item)

pick n pull

So what's the outcome of the email? You have to share after posting that big azz pic!

post #34

Can you tell us how exactly you came up with this idea of putting these two heads together in the first place? Great idea by the way.

Here's a couple of pics of the webbed non-egr p82 manifold for reference purposes. If you look at the manifold as two separate parts the rear three and the front three you have two manifolds in one. The rear portion with a small volume plenum, and short runners, and the front with a large volume plenum and long runners. Since there are not separate plenums in the manifold I would assume all cylinders would still be affected by the total plenum volume and not two separate volumes. Just an observation, don't have any idea if this would give a broader tuning range or not. Does seem to fall into that concept though.

Read! http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech-c.htm

Here's their website. http://www.professional-products.com/dampersProductNissan.php

I believe there is discussion about valve size in boosted vs. na apps. in that thread. It will take some reading to find but it's in there.

Who sells a piston for this combo?

X2

http://www.stahlheaders.com/Lit_Rod%20Length.htm

Why do you want to know?

Because if they didn't shorten the rod when they increased the stroke on the L26/L28 crank, the piston would slam into the head. This clearance issue is sometimes addressed with a piston with a raised pin location, closer to the piston face. In this case they shortened the rod. Each method has it's pro's and con's, as does everything pertaining to engine enhancement. Sounds like you have some homework to do.

I think you'll find the answer to your post here. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104420

There is a unassembled one for sale on craigslist in the SF bay area. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/pts/261269571.html

It's a blend of 2 4cyl heads modified to work on his L6.

The rock crawling crowd @ pirate4x4.com use this guy for their cryo work and comes highly recommended. They mainly do axle shafts, trans shafts, gears and u-joints. He also does custom double bead lock work. Located in nor cal. Dean @ http://www.performancecryogenics.com/

That does include the tranny!

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/NutsandBolts/index.html

The stock stuff is fine as long as they are prepped properly. ARP bolts and bushed for floating pins perhaps, along with a shotpeen and mag job, polishing couldn't hurt.

http://www.speedomotive.com

I think a destroked long rod 400 would be nasty in a Z. Check out the kits at http://www.speedomotive.com They have some good building tips there too. Read up! The 2 bolt 400 is said to be better than the 4 bolt, and the 400 runs small base circle cams for clearance of the rod bolts, roller lifters for radical cams. and I've read that at temp the siamesed cylinders won't stay round, making ring sealing a problem (makes me question all the talk about the turbo Z blocks being superior to the others!) They have steam holes in the decks, that need to match gaskets and heads, any heads can be drilled for these, came with cast cranks and are externally balanced, larger mains. I doubt any of these things are issues for a street engine. I have one in a boat and it has much more power than the 350 did, but it's not stock.

Give this here place a call. D. Elgin Racing Cams 53 Perry Street Redwood City, CA 94063 United States Phone: (650) 364-2187 Fax: (650) 364-2268

Oh yeah! That's cool. I'm trying to get the same thing going. Assembling my Megasquirt right now. Keep us posted.