franky240z
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Posts posted by franky240z
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I think its cheaper to go straight to Kameari, they're about $1000 direct.
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Hi All
Looking to make a half decent 'cooking' engine using my original block(240).
Option 1) 84mm bore, forged pistons, 260 crank, 133mm rods(2626cc ish)
option 2)140mm rods and 86mm pistons, 260 crank(2735ish)
I've a romantic notion over option 2, although it'd be great to have a bit of the original block left incase things went wrong.
How far have people gone? I'll sonic test the blocks with one of the hand held testers so i'll have a good overview of what 'meat' is there.
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If you've got an actual race car surely you should be looking at something a little better than a TT or BC option?
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What I don't get about all these arms, is the actual point/need.
Look at what Caterhams/Lotus, any fine handling, car uses, none of them have this setup. Its just adding multiple failure points.
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For all out handling you'll be wanting a reduction in unsprung weight. However it all depends on your suspension also.
It should be possible to stone people who fit 17" wheels to the early s30 range.
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If you want a modern setup that works, you need to speak to AD at VA motorsport. He did have a used set for sale a while ago. Possibly used/period(ish) stuff also.
As Alan pointed out above, i'd go for a nice period setup.
There's a lot BC/TTT type fans on here, however I'd really question what development their stuff has done on a rally spec(or any race spec) car, along with their actual knowledge of that type setup. Rally setups are generally the most complex and expensive suspension setups going. Not an off the shelf Far East, Chinese type setup that people put their own stickers on, claiming that they work with every spring rate going due to having 40000000 clicks on the damper.
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to add, give AD a call at VA-motorsport
https://www.va-motorsport.com/
He's a specialist with them and the s30. The others mentioned above just aren't in the same league.
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intrax is your best bet, a proven race setup.
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On 9/21/2017 at 8:44 AM, Dusty said:
Yes slightly better. Have you calculated what you compression ratio will be?
Works about about 10.5:1, I won't believe everything till the bottom end is built and measured as it could possibly be nearer 11:1.
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20 hours ago, madkaw said:
Care to share what pistons are from ? Or were these custom made? Deck height?
HI
They're a custom made JE forged piston. Deck height over standard 0.035" but with valve pockets. with the other parts it should help make an interesting engine away from the norm. I'm trying to put together something revvy and fun feeling. Not and out and out HP build.
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Hi all.
I've some pistons with the following specs
84mm bore
Compression distance 1.379”
Dome height 0.035”
0.6cc positive dome
Intake valve pocket 0.120” deep x 12 degrees
Exhaust pocket 0.110” deep x 12 degrees.
I'm using an l24 block, l28 crank, l24 length rods. The pistons were designed as a 'cheat' gives me 2627cc. Big valve e31 head.
This gives me a rod/stroke ratio of about 1.68 against a 1.8ish as standard. The way I understand it this is slightly 'better'? Or have I understood wrong?
The other engines that ran these pistons were in a rally spec cars with no engine failures.
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I'm looking at getting a kit made up.
AP Cp5040 calipers
290mm AP discs
alloy bells
brackets
ds2500 spec pads
I think it'll be the best brake kit option going. A much much better option than anything wilwood etc.
It wouldn't be cheap $2200ish....
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My only advice is to see what level of support you can get. A really good up front price doesn't mean a lot if they need to be shipped vast distances for rebuild or if there are no dealers close by with parts. A long time ago I bought the ground control double adjustable inserts. Loved them at first but after sitting over a winter they lost all their oil (store on the shelf) and GC wanted $100 a pop to service them. This time they don't seem to work as well (no dyno charts ever supplied) and they lost oil again the next year. Now they want $250 a piece to service and that was some time ago. I gave them to a friend and he said they now want more than I paid for them to be serviced.
While it may cost more I'd want to work with a dealer that supplied dynos and rebuilds that weren't too costly as those add up over time. And a company that has a good inventory of parts that might even have race track support. That probably means different companies in different parts of the world.
For a Z car that's used in a race environment you want to ideally use an inverted strut. This puts a stiffer part under bending load than the smaller shock shaft. And for the higher quality parts you should be looking at linear bearings or roller bearing top hats. These will reduce stiction when the suspension is bound under corner or braking load. Even things like the type of seal used on the shaft can make a difference. The one true standard across all these is that anything that ticks all those boxes is usually expensive. My personal feeling is that a S30 Z car isn't stiff enough to need anything more than a double adjustable shock.
Hope this helps,
Cary
Everything you say covers the intrax setup and support from VA-motorsport.
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You guys in Europe get all the fun. There just arent people prepping old cars for rally, serious hillclimb, etc so this higher end stuff just doesn't exist in the US unless you make it yourself.
I don't think we do, the support for these cars seems to be just growing now, VA-motorsport have been plugging away for a good few years with these cars.
Saying that, I did look to the USA for suspension, it just didn't seem to exist as a developed setup. I'm hoping good suspension and brake will be worth a good number of bhp on our UK bumpy roads
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Got repop competition steering wheel for my car. And a Japanese hood emblem.
Also ordered my Watanabe R's, Techno Toy coilovers, Fujitsubo Legalis exhaust and Cusco strut tower braces.
I'll post some photo's as I get the parts and get them installed.
Did you order the newer fujitsubo that fits tighter to the car? What size wheels did you go for?
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Pics....
Nice long springs, full stroke dampers, all just nicely done, properly matched, same spec dampers on this range as their top end range. -
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Take a look at my build. 1mm over, stroked 2.8 crank 275 bhp.
I'll take a look.
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If you're using the 280z crank, why not use the 280z block...and everything.
You'd have a 2.8 liter engine without having to touch anything.
I'm 100% using the original block, worked over e31 head.
It might sound strange but i'd prefer to have something away from the norm.
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I don't want to take it too far as I'd be worried about 'loosing' the block.
I've got a nice set of forged pistons to go in at 1mm over current bore.
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Hi
I've been searching for dyno curves of various 2.7ish engines.
I'm 100% using the standard block(240z), 1mm over, 280z crank, forged pistons/rods etc.
Looking around there's loads of info/threads on 2.8 and larger builds, but not too much under.
Has anyone got any interesting links/info/data etc.
Thanks all.
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Have you looked at intrax?
http://en.intraxracing.nl/merken/datsun/
https://www.va-motorsport.com/
Very well tested suspension, lots of options.
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As above, looking for an early valve cover '2400'.
Piston Options
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Yep, that'll be about $60.