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cegrover

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Posts posted by cegrover

  1. The stock throttle body is bigger than the AFM. Might just work. I'll check measurements later tonight.

    This project's been going on so long that I forget some aspects!

     

    I originally was trying to use a lightly modified turbo AFM on this car and that boot was ordered for it.  The turbo AFM has a slightly larger diameter and the boot fit it perfectly.  It's technically a bit too large for the current application, but does clamp down and doesn't leak, from what I can tell.

     

    Long and short of it: If you're mating one to a stock non-turbo AFM, you might consider a slightly smaller diameter on the small end of this reducer, assuming that precise size exists.  Your measurements should catch that, anyway...

  2. Eh... I'll just measure it :P If you've happen to know though, it'd be nice. I never quite trust myself on purchasing stuff unless it's built for it or I've tried it in person :P

    Yes, the stock '75 boot I had was too small to fit the 240SX throttle body, so the stock throttle body must have had a smaller diameter (presumably the same as the AFM?).

  3. Where did you get that AFM boot? I've been looking for something to replace my stock one with, since it's all torn up.

     

    Here you go!

     

    http://www.siliconeintakes.com/bending-reducer/bending-reducer-p-904.html

     

    That piece is correct for a stock AFM but a 240SX throttle body.  With the removal of the AFM, I just found aluminum piping of the same diamter.  It is reducing from 3-inch at throttle body to 2.75-inch.  I guess I could technically replace the whole thing with larger tubing...we'll see if it's needed. 

  4. Thanks! It's in the shop getting AEM standalone EFI as we speak, so I'm hoping to have it running great very soon and then finish out the interior. It's been without carpet or sound deadening since I first got it running in 2012...

    I finally put the intake back together today.  Here's an upated engine compartment shot.

    post-2567-0-42708400-1437942488_thumb.jpg

  5. Look, Ma, no AFM!  AEM standalone EFI is installed. Thanks go out to Mitch at MPTuning, who also tuned Rhys Millen's record-setting Pike's Peak car.  We'll get it on the dyno soon for final tuning and to see the results.

     

    (BTW, yes, the project has moved across the country and has survived the birth of our child, thus the slow pace!)

    post-2567-0-36591100-1437942048_thumb.jpg

  6. So, the worm gear has been swapped for a later year part and it works with the ZX-T spindle/shaft. The one in the engine was indeed bronze and consistent with an early part or one sold as a NISMO part.

     

    post-2567-0-63903700-1430976929_thumb.jpg

  7. Good points.  Per your links, I'm talking about two parts, which must be matched in order to work:

     

    "ASSY-SPINOLE OIL PUM" - I believe this is a typo, and should be "ASSY-SPINDLE OIL PUMP" and, notably, drives the distributor, in addition of the oil pump.

    and

    "GEAR-OIL PUMP DRIVE"

     

    It seems early and late L-series engines used different oil pump drive gears and thus had different spindle gears to match.

  8. Looks like L24 used the smaller-geared spindle and accompanying worm gear. The early worm gear is also bronze and NISMO sold it as an upgrade for all L-series, requiring the accompanying spindle. I think that's what I have...Will confirm soon.

  9. I didn't call it out in the thread, but it's in my signature.  I think the difference might be my stroker engine.  I have the V07 / LD28 crankshaft.  We are now looking at swapping the worm gear on the crank to drive the ZXT dist/oil pump spindle.  I will continue with updates as we have them.

  10. My 280Z is in the shop getting AEM EMS and we've encountered a problem.  I have a 280ZXT distributor and got the associated shaft on eBay.  The distributor and shaft match up perfectly, but the drive gear on the shaft does not mesh with the worm gear in the engine/timing cover.  It is too large.

     

    Is there more than one shaft?  I'm not at the shop now, so I'm verifying the part number on the shaft (it was NOS in the Nissan box).  I will post that when I get it. I recall that the seller listed it as fitting 81-83 ZXTs, but I have heard that the 81 was different.  Can anyone confirm?  I have searched a lot and haven't found this concern posted. 

     

    Any help will be greatly appreciated!

     

    Edit:  I added a pic of the two shafts, with the new turbo shaft on the right.

     

    http://forums.hybridz.org/gallery/image/30669-distributor-shafts/

  11. No real update except I've been putting some miles on it. I moved across the country and back to SOCAL; so the Z is now a regular at Irvine Cars and Coffee. Anyone else here regularly appear there?

     

    This photographer seems to catch me every week, but, then again, he takes a TON of photos:

     

    http://www.cncpics.com/2012/June/Cars/23882067_9vDBbs#!i=1941280503&k=Rqhz5cX&lb=1&s=A

     

    Game plan:

    1) Keep breaking it in for a while

    2) Get hole in floor pan patched - had to cut it out to clear the header

    3) Change over to AEM EFI with either MAP sensor or MAF

    4) Install interior!

     

    All this starts when there are fewer boxes around the house to unpack.

    post-2567-064107500 1341854772_thumb.jpg

    post-2567-098012100 1341854939_thumb.jpg

    post-2567-040485900 1341854952_thumb.jpg

    post-2567-089540900 1341854961_thumb.jpg

    post-2567-096376700 1341855674_thumb.jpg

    post-2567-026357700 1341855685_thumb.jpg

    post-2567-082831600 1341855705_thumb.jpg

  12. I'm about to get a 3.1L project running and know that stock EFI is not optimal. I ran into the item listed below and am curious about it. The question is whether there's anything valid about using this type of device, or if it can't make a complex enough 'map' to run as well as something else. I certainly have doubts about such a 'quick fix' solution, and am interested in whether anyone here has actual experience with one. Outside that, I'm leaning toward SDS, at this point.

     

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fuel-Control-Box-Nissan-Datsun-Toyota-Supra-Mazda-BMW-/380151907169?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5882d1c361

     

    http://www.hiperformancestore.com/fuelinjectors.htm

     

    Quote from ad:

     

    "The old L-Jetronic system is an analog fuel injection system. This means it has no software to chip, flash, or reprogram. It can not take advantage of the mass air flow conversion kits out there as they only work on digital systems. With an old analog system like L-Jetronic, it's all in the hardware. For years those of us wanting to change the fuel curves on L-Jetronic cars had few choices. One popular choice was sending the ECU to a specialist for adjustments. This cost about $400 and involved a certain amount of risk to the ECU as the units are very delicate when they are apart. Hairline cracks in the boards and loosened solder joints were common on these boxes. The worst part was you had to send it back in every time you made a big change to the motor. Finally someone has an inexpensive and ADJUSTABLE solution.

     

    Our new product allows excellent control of the fuel system. It DOES NOT make L-Jet as good as a modern injection system like Gotech, SDS, Motec, etc. However it does allow enough control over the fuel curve to handle about 5 pounds of boost with stock fuel injectors and 10 pounds with Stage 2 injectors.

     

    If you want to avoid the hassle of upgrading to modern injection. Or you just feel comfortable with the reliability of the stock injection system then this product is for you.

     

    Two factors can be adjusted. You can control exactly when the system signals the ECU to send in more fuel and you can alter how much extra fuel is added. The amount of fuel is not infinitely adjustable however we include 25 settings which will provide enough range of adjustment for almost everyone. The device on my car is set to trigger at 5500rpm and adds enough fuel to handle 10 pounds of boost on my 2.5 with Stage 2 injectors. Without the device the car starts to lean out at 5500 rpm and would be dangerously lean by 6000 rpm. Now at 5500 the car accelerates noticeably harder and the mixture stays in line up to 6500+ rpm.

     

    Installation is simple and only requires one wire on the car to be cut. It does not require removal of the ECU, soldering or anything else. It's very small and can be hidden anywhere. Even in plain view nobody notices it."

  13. Is there anybody around the Nashville/ Middle TN Area that would be willing to help me? I have a 77 280z with added turbo stuff via the N/A electronics and I want to switch to megasquirt. I have done all the work myself and the car is running good, but i want the extra control megasquirt offers.

     

     

    I don't know of anyone, but I'm soon to be in the same boat. Please update here if you find someone!

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