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Raami

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Posts posted by Raami

  1. Mate its a big job to make it all work ,but i love the chalange and know how well it will work .i have done 3 4 cylinder L20

    twin cams with the KA head and they make incredable hp NA with a port that flows the same numbers as my head .So id love to see how you go with your build. I will get pics up real soon ..

     

    Yes I know it is big job but I too like challenges and I am grazy Finn after all. :D

    My head is getting valve job but otherwise it is staying stock for now.

  2. Hi mate

    I have seen a man in japan do it with a single cam rb20 head , but he made a new timing chane cover and made the oil reterns line up in the rear of the head .

     

    but my version is a race setup and i wonted a dry sump so i went a diffrent path, as i had made the frunt cover redundent i hade to make the sump shorter , and i wonted even water temps along the hole motor so i started from scrach ... So your idear sounds a lot more practical ,and hope it all works out

     

    the chamber is so large on the TC RB its hard to get the comp up for a NA ,thats the reasion i had to go so big with the stroker kit , and the piston still needs a 18cc bump to get the comp where i need it ,

     

    Hi.

    I have to mod the timing chain cover too but not that much actually.

    The oil is returning from the rear of the head but also from the front because I'm gonna stay with chain so it doesn't matter if the oil is going that way too. That returning oil is also lubricating the chain.

     

    But there are still alot to do that I can get the timing chain work.

    Also the cooling is one thing. Thinking how to get the coolant flow even because that rb-head has water outlet in the side of the head.

     

    I hope this topic gets good conversation from this subject and I will not hold any information from my mod if someone has something to ask.

  3. I'm building this kind of setup too. Trying to get it run for next summer.

    I have rb25det-head that I'm fitting with my L-block. I'm going to use chain drive, stock water and oil pump too.

    Pics and videos are coming when it is ready and running.

    C/R is gonna be low as 7.8:1 but boost will compensate it. :D

  4. Hmm... now where have I seen that kind of design before. :blink:

    Maybe he should remain nameless too. :D

     

    I have been driving my car now for 3 summer and so far no problem... or maybe one set of piston rings only. :D

  5. Is it the same guy that has the 606 powered 240Z?

     

    If so what is his end goal for that enigne?

     

     

    No that diesel 240z belongs to another friend. =)

    I don't know is there any end goal. Just trying to get more and more.

    Should be fast bmw in the future with that engine.

  6. I think that this varies by head - my recollection is that my N42 does not have a passage that mates with the front orifice.

     

    Also, there are a couple of different tensioner oiling configurations that vary by year.

     

    My engine is N42-block and P90-head.

    I would really like to know if some blocks or heads have different oil paths to the tensioner.

  7. IIRC the rods are cast, not forged like the gas L6. Plus, try weighing them and be prepared to poop your undies.

     

    How do you know that those ld-rods are cast and not forged like the gas-rods?

    Those ld-rods have to handle great forces in a low rpm and the piston is also much more heavier than the ones in a gas engine. I would say that those ld-rods are stronger than gas-rods.

    But that is just my opinion and I have those ld-rods in my N42 L28 with custom forged pistons.

    The R/S ratio is now 1,77.

  8. I bought ARP-studs too to my L28 and I'm going to put those with new kameari metalheadgasket. I bought 2 gaskets at the same time so that I don't have to order again soon. =D

     

    But back to those ARP-studs.

    I have always retorqued my head with stock bolts and metalheadgasket but have anyone of you retorqued with ARP-studs?

  9. I'm posting this in ALL 3 threads regarding the Z32 transmission swap

     

    We can still use the FACTORY speedometer with the Z32/RB25 5-speed transmission swap!!

     

    Mike Rowe was able to find a mechanical speedometer pinion assembly (Nissan part number 32702-02G17) that came from a Nissan Hardbody (D21) truck... with the manufacture years (1986.5-1994)

     

    This replaces the electric speedometer output.. and converts it to a mechanical speedometer output!!

     

    Incredibly.. the speedometer cable bolts right up to the new pinion assembly and it works!!

     

    DSC07260.JPG

     

    I think it cost me around $46 from Nissan =)

     

     

    Do you know with what engine and tranny that pinion assembly came?

    Here in Finland it's not that same part in those years trucks.

    Would need one because I'm putting rb25 tranny in my Z.

  10. Diesel reputation be damned, that's sick!!!

     

    Anyone know how much that benz diesel weighs? (for real, that is)

     

     

    With that trans and diesel engine, it's almost the same than the stock combo.. if I remember correct that it was +20kilograms with that mercedes combo.

  11. I have to say that diesel-Z is faster so far. I haven't got a change to test with drag slicks. I have more power and torque but that autotrans helps also in that diesel. :)

    That mercedes trans has been modified little and it handles that torque well.

  12. don't you guys read before posting?

     

    here it is again.

     

    http://www.hardcore50.com/Articles/georgeklass/greatmyths.htm

     

    they ONLY changed the r/s ratio. no power difference. they used 500 cid drag racing engines.

     

    So you think that it isn't easier for rods and cylinder walls with the bigger r/s?

    Or it isn't better with high revs?

    I have never said that it would make much more power with better r/s, only that it is easier for those parts.

  13. FWIW, I have my 1.60 r/s LD-crank motor limited at 7200rpm as well and it "revs really nice" up there as well :)

     

    I'd rather have 5% more displacement than a "better" r/s ratio.

     

    No doubt about that but still it doesn't rev as good as 1,77r/s.

    And theres a reason why I don't wan't rev higher than that. Stock cam in my P90. :rolleyesg

    And yes I can take my ld crank too and install it to my engine if I wan't more displacement. Just take 2mm more from pistons.

    And what I have understand is that it is easier for rods with bigger r/s than smaller r/s.

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