zmech
-
Posts
47 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by zmech
-
-
Looks like the Z45 will be the DD now. ♥♥♥♥ happens and this is what the 50th looks like now.
-
If you are worried about trannys. Then go get one that will do the job. TKO 600.
-
Wow, I asked this sometime back. Why is this HybridZ with no Nissan V8 forum. Chevy, Ford are not manufactured by the same company as the Z...
For that matter, not even the same continent.
-
Dyno run finally...
Not quite the numbers I was expecting but they are numbers.
245 whp and 291 lbs of torque.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Z45-on-the-dyno_718847.htm
-
Put in a Q45 ecu from Impul Japan. It made a very nice change in the engine. This is just a short video running at night with the new ecu.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Test-drive-with-new-Impul_717894.htm
One more. Night drive down Highland Valley rd. in San Diego.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Z45-A-shakedown-run-on-rd_717898.htm
-
Thanks!
I was thinking about the same thing. They have a full forum up and they keep up with all the posts there also. I think I will purchase the everlast plasma.
-
Anyone here have experience with this? I am looking at the 60 amp one from Everlast and the specs are very comparable to the ThermalDynamics Cutmaster 52. Plus the Everlast has a 5 year warrenty with alot less cash out.
Let the Chinese blasting begin. I know it will happen.
-
Then read the post directly under the one you made here. It is called a Z45 for a reason.
-
What it sounds like inside the Z45.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Z45-take-off-from-light_713000.htm
-
Decided to start making up an engine torque damper. So I dug out the old box spare urethane parts. Hmm, let's see what we have here. Hey this will work. So I am using the urethane that is normally used on the front tension rods for the 84-86 300zx. Found some aluminum pipe that the bushing would just press into and cut it in the correct length. Welded on a smaller aluminum pipe to that pipe. Took off the cross bar mount from the top of the strut tower and made up a two bolt mount up point on it. Just need to measure the smaller tube length and then weld it up to the flat plate to bolt to the tower mount. On to the PICS...
More to come on this project of course.
-
Yeah, I remember you. That is a very sweet 240Z you have BTW. I would love to get one of those to add to the collection however, the wife would kill me if I added another car.
Yeah. I am still building, as if that is anything new to anyone with a Z. Will find me a Procharger someday for a decent price and then attempt to fabricate it into the engine bay also. Then the LSD and I MAY be done with it for a bit.
Thanks for stopping by and checking out the build thread.
Your car looks awsome. I was there at MSA. I pulled up behind you in line in a Tundra pulling my 1972 240Z that had 2 miles on it since a bare metal restoration. You informed me were to park the truck. I checked out your car and thought that the motor looked like a factory install. The way the car should have been available from the factory. Great job. Enjoyed checking your car out. I thought it was the most interesting car there, beautiful, purposful.
-
the Howe throwout bearings are great. Just make sure you use the 3/4 inch master with it.
-
Just wanted to chime in with, Damn! Very nice build for all of you guys!!
Zmech
-
Yes a clear window in the hood would be the bomb but I would need to do some dress up like the Audi above.
Drive185mph, I think you meant patience. And it did take some of that. Most of the time I just walk away when I am not thinking right. It is better to think and do with a level head.
-
Thanks.
-
Took the Z to the Coronado Speed Festival in San Diego today. Had a great time watching all the old race cars on the track.
Dreaming here...
-
Jared, the engine mounts are from Ireland Engineering. They are for a BMW. They actually used the same ones to put a BMW turbo V8 into a 325.
Thanks to all others for the comments.
-
:arrow:Decided to make up a cover for the front made from aluminum.
:arrow:Also got the TIG working again so I busted out the aluminum and made up an overflow containter for the coolant. It is mounted under the driver headlight. It will hold 1.8 quarts.
-
Just curious as to if when welding mild steel with your TIG welders, your filler rod likes to stick to the base metal right as you go to dip it.
When welding, I will go to dip my rod, and then all of a sudden, the rod seems to spring toward the base metal, like a magnet is pulling it. I understand that when you put that much juice through metal, that something like that can happen. I was just wondering if it happens to you guys. It is pretty annoying and sometimes it messes up my nice bead. Do you guys have a solution for this? Sometimes I find myself sliding the filler rod on the base metal and then into the puddle. This keeps the rod under more control as it is already stuck/magnetized to the base metal.
I do the same sliding motion with most of my metals. Especially aluminum as I usually use a very thin rod that moves around too much if I do not keep it on the metal. Never had an issue with magnetics though.
-
So why post here? You know there is a Gen III and Gen IV forum with people that use that engine. Just curious.
Actually the curious part here is why the Nissan engines in this forum fall under OTHER.
Check this out.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/1075148-cam-lobe-failure-analyses.html
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1486333
http://answers.edmunds.com/question-Ticking-noise-starting-Chevrolet-Tahoe-14654.aspx
-
I have had some cooling issues. Still testing to see if I have them solved. I tend to run in the 195 - 210 range. With occasional peaks to 230.
Kinda figured. Just thought maybe you had something figured out. Seems many Q45 owners are experiencing the same occurence. I have not figured out what is the problem either as my coolant capacity is more than the Q45 and I have changed the water pump and the thermostat with Nissan parts. Radiator is new with dual Spal fans.
My theory is that the thermostat was not designed correctly and is not closing off the bypass soon enough. I cannot prove that though as I cannot watch it working inside the engine. However, looking at the old one, the bypass closing disk is hardly worn at all. Just my thoughts...
Sorry about the thread jack. Now back to your regular program...
-
Is that a VH45?
If so, what temps are you seeing?
Mine is reaching 190 to 195 DEGF on normal hill climbs. but drops right back down after the top. Driving hard will obviously bring it up to those temps also.
According to the FSM for Q45 the thermostat will not open completely until 194 DEGF which will totally close off all recirculation paths. So it would seem that hot water will recirculate in the block a little bit until 194*.
-
Got the thermostat changed out today. It kept cooling down alot if I coasted down hill for a while. So I did the natural course of action and change the thermostat. It was not totally stuck open as I found out. It uses a rubber ring in the tstat that had flaked off over time. I am sure this is the original as the housing still had the original blue sealant on it. So it was leaking by just not very rapidly.
-
Thanks for all the great comments. I have put alot of time and hard work into building this. It really is fantastic to drive.
I will be pulling the thermostat this weekend. Seems I may have a stuck one. It does not overheat but does cool down quite a bit when coasting downhill. The other night it cooled down to under 140 DEGF while coasting for about 3 minutes.
Will be working on a cover for the front part over the fans also. I am thinking thin SS sheet to cover it.
Z45 Warning! Tons of pics.
in Other V8Z Tech Board
Posted
Was on cruise control/auto pilot at 5:30am on the freeway. Some dumbshit came out on the freeway and went across all the lanes right in front on the two cars in front of me. So they slammed on the brakes and I was not ready for it. I tagged the brakes and turned to the left to avoid hitting the person in front of me and the car lost the rear end. 4 wheel drift directly into the concrete center divide at 70 mph. Front first then flip around and the rear. Then it was a ride all the way back across the freeway, 5 lanes. Lucky for me no one else got gathered up in it. So now after the insurance is cleared up it will be chop cut and rebuild. Such is life! Just glad the car is tough...