Lost Soul
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Posts posted by Lost Soul
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My Z is for sale on CL, Vegas and St. George UT, if you're interested. It's running, and has a 5.0 motor. PM Me if you're interested. I won't lie, it has rust but it's manageable and it is my daily driver.
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In a couple weeks I'll be hitting up the junk yard for some test fitting and measuring. If I find a good year, make and model I'll post it. I'm in the same boat on my 77, they just fall when I hit the throttle.
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I know this is an old thread but any update? Haha... yeah, two years old. Just got mine 87 4 speed AOD installed using Brian Laine's kit (motor mount as well 302 SBF). Worked well but had to massage the tunnel on the passenger side for the lines to clear. Also had to cut the old mounts completely out and his tranny mount bolts are too short for an 77. Had to grind the old bolts out and buy some new ones at ACE.
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If you don't have fusable links, check for an aftermarket fuse that may have been installed or like the previous reply for some new electrical tape. A digital voltmeter (go cheap if you just use it minimal) will help you figure out if you have a draw with the key off engine off or like the previous reply key on engine on doing his method. I tested mine, I think I put one end on the negative terminal and the other on the end of the negative connection to pull the reading of draw (key off engine off) and since it read voltage I had a draw, while it was off. Keep in mind there are two theories of how electricity flows, Positive to Negative and Negative to Positive. In automobiles, you end up using a little of both, they are wired for Positive to Negative trouble shooting but if you're looking for a draw with the engine off your testing the opposite since that's really the direction it goes. Those two theories help a bit when you're troubleshooting with a digital voltage ohm meter.
**Anyone correct me if I'm wrong, it happens and I'm not afraid to admit it.
As for the dying while running, also keep an eye on that voltage gauge while you're driving. Innova makes a $60 voltmeter where you can check the alternator while the car is running to find out whether it's within specs, rather than have to always go to the Zone and waste an hour of your day. I have a repair manual for 77, which should be very similar to your year, PM me and I'll get it to you.
Speaking from experience here... don't go throwing parts at it until you know the problem. They all add up quickly, slowly killing the budget. I did that with my current project and wasted WAY too much money. Now I'm struggling finishing it.
Last thing here... take a picture of some of that wiring, like the one you posted originally but your car this time. I think a lot of these guys in the forums know what looks right and what looks wrong who can point you in the right direction.
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Cool, thanks again, you guys all rock. So much good information here.
Hopefully I don't run out of cash before it's drivable... haha.
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Cool, thanks for all the good information.
I have an R200 already installed on my 280z now, so If I just swap the companion flange from my 280Z, that's great it'll work out. I have all the tools and a lift at the shop so no biggie pulling that pinion nut off.
As for the stub axles, the 300Z has a 29 spline, not sure what my current R200 on the 280Z has. I was under it earlier today and there was a 4 bolt flange on my current 280Z diff that connects it to the half shafts. Does that connect into the diff with a C clip like the 300ZX and current CV Axles?
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So I got a deal from a friend who was dismantling someones 300ZX. He thinks it's from a 1985 NA but I'm trying to figure out if anyone knows which year this is from and whether it's a good fit for my 77 280Z or what it'll fit on. I have a R200 in my Z now but I'm looking for a better gear ratio. I'm doubting it's actually going to fit, from what I've read on the great write ups but not 100% sure what it'll fit on.
The gear ratio is 3.7:1 and half shafts with the 6 bolt companion flange on the wheel side. The gear oil was pretty black but surprisingly had no metal in it. Teeth on the ring gear look pretty clean on the wear side. Really smooth movement spinning the companion flange on the yoke.
At any rate, if anyone knows what this setup will work on, it would be most appreciated.
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Great write up on the possible conversions for all of us. Too bad I found it a year after I did the non vented rotor configuration since I wanted the vented one. Stopping power is a huge step up from the stock caliper and rotors on my 77 280z but still far from great.
I'll have to make the change when I can afford wheels.
Thanks again for the great write up!!!
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I recently purcased a set of 240z bumpers and was told that they came from a 1972 240z. Once I went to install them, I discovered that they are in fact, 1973 240z bumpers. These are not going to achieve the look I want on my car, so I am hoping to trade someone for some 1972 bumpers or just sell them outright. The chome is worn but they are relatively straight and dent free (minor dings). Great candidates for paint or rechroming. They come with front and rear overrider bars as well. I only want to recover what I paid for them or trade for 72 bumpers. I will probably paint the bumpers black, so the chrome condition is not the highest priority (straightness is). Please let me know what you have, ill entertain all reasonable offers. I would also be interested in fiberglass bumpers for trade. I paid $80 each bumper and I am located in Southern California 92501
I will upload some photos later tonight.
I'm interested in buying your bumpers. Can you upload some pictures?
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As the topic says, I'm looking for an R180 diff in SoCal, with or without halfshafts.
I found a R200 to replace my R180 but it might be a few weeks before I have it pulled apart and ready to sell. If you don't have it when I have mine pulled apart, I'll be happy to sell it. I'm replacing the mustache bar, diff and half shafts.
I may have to swap the diff yoke since my donor R200 has 12mm, so it might be a R180 from a 77 280z but the yoke will have 12mm bolts instead of 10mm. I have 10 miles since the last fluid swap on it as well and no metal when I drained it the first time.
WTB 1970-78 240/260/280z w/ LS1 or T56
in Cars Wanted
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Mine is a bit rusty but it has a 5.0 Mustang motor and AOD. I'm selling it for less than what I'm in on it, if you're interested, PM me.