dts300z
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Posts posted by dts300z
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Finally got her fired off. Here is the start up and a walk around sorta lol. Have a lot of loose ends to button up. Enjoy!
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I exceeded my bandwidth on PB so here is a link http://s164.beta.photobucket.com/user/DanShields_2007/library/
Also got her fired up.
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Made a bit more progress. Charge pipes are done and getting close on the wiring harness.
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Got the microsquirt in yesterday
Thing is tiny. Should be able to get this thing running in a few weeks now!!
Cut a ton of wire out I won't be using. -
Here are a few more shots with the radiator and fans in.
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Ok a little more progress. Down pipe made and contour fans fitted to radiator.
Fans are a little big but after I seal them off they should work great.
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Got some more finished up over the weekend.
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Alrighty finally making some progress. Drop the engine in and started mocking up the fuel system and turbo hot side.
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Projects like these ALWAYS require you to either learn to weld and fab yourself or make damn sure you got a friend who welds for gum as payment. Because shops will tell you how easy they can do it, then once into the project you will start to get the hourly bill for their learning curve. Your engine choice is pretty cool, saw it done in a fd once. Car ran real well with tons of room in the engine compartment to work on it. Its hard to get me away from sprayed and boosted ls swaps mainly because of the price and the amount of tuners out their already familiar with the platform. Can never go wrong with a boosted 5.3ls engine bolted to a powerglide.
^^ Agree 100%.
I'm working on an LS swap into mine right now lol. I can't weld but try anyway and it's proving to be pretty involved. I've done a few of these swaps... in the same car actually. The LT1 fits nicely compared to the LS but I would no doubt steer you towards the LS swap over a SBC or LT1 swap having done the LT1. With the LS series (4.8L, 5.3L specifically) with very minimal work and a turbo you should meet your goals. I know you can make power with the GN engine but I'm in no way familiar with them.
Just to give you an idea of cost I should be into my swap for about $5k not including labor and I should be able to make ~650ish or maybe some high 9s without batting an eye. I'm limited by my turbo. There are guys out there making 700 plus and trapping 140ish on these engines with very little modification and money spent. Best bang for the buck IMO.
Here is some inspiration
Dunno if the guy is a member here but that is one mean Z.
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I actually just slowly work it into place.
I made a template with cardboard and then gave myself an extra inch or so all the way around the template (except for at the top). I started at the top, the only place I didn't add additional metal and started taching it. I welded everything from the inside except for the top. I had to tach it into place on the outside while I was forcing the metal into the tunnel. Easier said then done. Where the metal met the existing tunnel I had to use a bit of pursuasion as I tached it in. It didn't take very long. Took more time to grind all the excess metal down and smooth it out.
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More progress!
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More progress!! Got it all welded up. A little body filler and paint and were ready to rock.
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Would love to see some pics of the build! I'm in the process of rebuilding mine for the 5th time around. Going with the 4.8L this time.
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Made some more progress this weekend. Still have to finish welding up the tunnel and cutting the excess material off. Might not need much bondo when this one gets done.
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I used a Autokraft oil pan with my swap. I am using a LQ4 with a Tremec T-56. I was able to get the motor and transmission mounted with out cutting the firewall. There was some small massaging with a 2lb ball peen hammer. The trick to getting the motor in with the clutch and bellhousing attached is to drop the K members about 3 inches and it pops right in. Then bolt the K member back up and bolt the motor down.
Yep that's about what it took to get my first LT1 swap done.
I've used the same trick to get the VG in and out of many Zs with the trans attached. Works well... it's just getting it past the oil pan sump.
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Hey dts...
Have you ever looked at any of the skinny bell housings available for the ls series motors? It looks like the bell housing is excessively beefy at the top, and tha seems to be the issue. Also the hurst tko 5 speed looks dynamite, and looks like the case on it is thinner than the ones that come in the gto/camaro/firebirds.
I'm running a th350 now. The bell on it isn't so bad. I've never looked into a different bell housing though. The biggest problem I'm running into is the configuration of the LS series block and heads. On the old sbc style blocks the mating surface for the transmission sits about 2" roughly from the back of the passenger head (the LS series sits just about flush so the back of the head is at the back of the block). This allowed the block to sit 2" further back in the trans tunnel. I'm keeping the same transmission location so I don't have to get another drive shaft and also so I have enough clearance for the radiator and fans I want to run.
The engine compartment in the Z32 is just short and the configuration really messes with trying to get an adequate radiator and fans, then you run into height issues and end up having to modify the oil pan to get it to fit under the hood.
I know it can be done. There was a guy here in Jax that had successfully completed the swap without modding the firewall. I never got to see it but I know the guy that did the fabrication on the oil pan and a few other things for him. I'll ask around and see if I can come up with more info.
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Ha 2nd one down on a google search... here you go! http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/resource-center/101576-install-guide-q45-differential-swap-into-240sx-subframe.html
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I'd imagine it's a pretty straight forward swap. I know there is a thread out there where a guy swapped one into a 240sx. I'd imagine it's as simple as an inner axle end swap, using the 6 bolt inner axle ends from a q45 and drilling the companion flange so you can bolt up your drive shaft. Otherwise I'd think it's a pretty direct swap.
Give it a go man!
Although the axles (I know the axle ends are) may be a different spline count but I wouldn't think they would go through the trouble. When I did my rear end swap I used the 6 bolt axle ends from a g35. I had to do quite a bit of modification to the sub frame but it works great!
The guy that did the 240sx swap used either 2 driver or 2 passenger side axles from the q45 and the hubs. He was looking for a stronger axle end and a better gear.
I'll see if I can dig up the thread.
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Thanky Sir! I've used a 4l60e (on the first swap) then went to a t56 (really good choice) and now I'm running a th350. I've ran a few transmissions over the years and by far I would say I miss the t56 the most. Great for daily driving and the 6th gear really helps with highway cruising.
The nice thing I've noticed about using the stock transmission is the "not modding the firewall" part of it. To be honest I know the Z32 tranny is a nice piece but once you've driven a T56 you won't go back. The one thing I've noticed with the swaps utilizing the Z32 tranny is that the engine sits pretty far forward. Not a fan of this at all. This leaves little room for cooling options and with a fire breathing V8 that's not a good thing. Especially a turbocharged V8.
One thing to keep in mind while doing this swap especially if you want to retain creature comforts is that you don't have to stick with the factory assemblies i.e. heater core, evap., condenser, air box etc... you can find low profile systems that you can adapt to fit and work with the Z you just wouldn't be able to keep the climate control unless you wanted to figure that out.
I cut the firewall initially for the LT1. Now that I'm swapping to the LSX it needed to be done to fit a proper cooling system and fit the turbocharger up front, although it seems the LSx is a little shorter, it still has a bunch of different things going on. Don't get me wrong it could be done without modding the firewall but this is going to take quite a bit of modification elsewhere to get it to work. Personally I wouldn't go this route because you end up messing with steering geometry and that always becomes a gamble especially if you don't know what your doing (I don't lol). I could probably figure it out but I'm not worried about cutting into the firewall as you have seen.
Good luck with your choice! I'm in and out of here quite a bit so if you have anything you need some insight on let me know... not that I know what I'm doing but I've been around the block on this one a few times.
Yeah dts, I saw your build....
Very nice work. What did you do as far as transmission? I was thinking of trying to adapt the stock tranny, but i understand it would take a flywheel spacer which could be a headache. Did you cut the tunnel because it wa an lt and not an ls? I have seen several ls builds that didn't modify the tunnel in any way. I would also like to retain all the factory accessories, which wold take some extensive fab, but solid be doable.
I am considering doing a high, front mount twin turbo setup with the turbos I already have, gt2560r's. I know a bigger turbo would push a lot more hp, but drivability, reliability is a bigger concern than max hp for me, not to mention that Ina stock bottom end, about 10 psi is all I could push anyway.
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Do it! I'm switching over from an LT1 in my Z32 right now and can't be more pleased about it. I messed with the vg engine for years and I'll never look back. The LT1 was nice and cheap when I first did the swap in 2003 so I stuck with it and since the new rave on the 4.8 and 5.3 ls series engines came about (and the demise of the LT1) it's really a no brainer for me. To be able to make a reliable 600+ rwhp out of a stock long block that I picked up for $280 at the local yard with another one ready to go in it just in case... hahaha you can't beat it. You could buy 3 long blocks for the money you have in pistons alone and it's more reliable and tuner friendly with the stock PCM.
Check out my build. The link is in my sig. I'm modding the firewall again for this swap and I'll be sure to take a lot of good pictures that should help anyone interested in doing the swap and retain the factory steering geometry. I'm not worried about creature comforts. After all I'm building a race car not a daily driver, although the reliability WILL be there but you would have to deal with no power steering, no a/c or heat.
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Makin some mo progress! Got the mounts welded up and everything nice and centered. Need to do a bit of modification to the oil pan to get it to fit. The sump is super low on the truck pan and it needs to be thinned out a bit where it crosses the rack.
Had the wire speed up a little too high and got a bit of a booger weld but I really don't give a **** it'll hold just fine lol.
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A little more progress. This thing is a bit taller than the LT1. Looks like I'm going to have to think about going EFI again. The damn oil pan is against the rack and the carb is sticking through the hood. The carb was about 2-3" lower with the LT1. Decisions decisions...
Oh and I had to hack into the firewall again lol.
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Thanks! Yea it was a bummer but I'm actually a little more excited about the new swap. Should have a lot more potential. I think I might have to modify the firewall a bit more. Good excuse to spend a little more time on it to make it cleaner.
Thing is tiny. Should be able to get this thing running in a few weeks now!!
Turbo lsx 300z Z32 swap video
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
Thanks! I'm looking forward to getting it tuned all in.
This car has been in a place called swap land for the last almost 10 years lol. To keep it short this particular swap was started in August 2012 and I just got it fired up (I would say to check out my build thread but I've exceeded the bandwidth for my free PB account lol), although you can go to the link in my build thread to the PB account.
I'm not as quick to getting things done like the old days since I have a little one running around now but overall I'm very pleased this go around and plan to keep the LS series engine in the car.