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Wesley

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Posts posted by Wesley

  1. You say you will have 300+ HP. Do you plan to drive on road courses? If you do, I'd suggest going straight to Wilwoods. I am running the S12+8 in front and 240SX in rear with Hawk Blue in front and Hawk HT10 in rear and now that I'm pushing the same power as you, I'm at the thermal limit before the end of a 20 minute session. Plus, those pads are expensive ($300+ for the set) and don't look I'll get more than 4 track days out of them.

     

    As a point of reference, when I ran NA (175 hp est) I never had any issues with the setup using cheaper street pads at the track, so if your plans are only for the street, then the Toyota setup should be fine.

     

     

    Yeah i'll end up racing the car (I stayed NA Rebello built 3.0 with Megasquirt and more port and Polish than I thought possible ;) I figure for now just upgrade to the vented in the front seeing as how I have a solid rotor right now. How does your proportioning workout running the 240sx brakes in the rear coupled with those S12+8's?

    Later on I'll get the 4 corners Wilwood setup. Is there a better place to buy the brake kit rather than from ArizonaZcar where its is almost $1700?

    Would running ducting from your lower valance to the brakes help some? Was planning on doing that myself with a square angled vacuum hose and some sort of putty for that functional look.

  2. I am currently looking for the most reasonably priced vented brake upgrade. (Due to smoking the brakes and losing all pedal coming down a nice twisty road.)

    I currently have the 15/16 Master with front S12 Toyota Calipers with a solid rotor cross drilled and slotted and the stock rear drums.

     

    For those who wish to try and say I do not need vented. I will be pushing over 300horsepower in my build and I want to know that I have extra cooling capabilities under hard braking conditions.

     

     

     

    I have looked through all of the FAQ and understand what my options are.

     

    I have chosen to go with the S12+8 Vented option as the proportioning should be better due to the smaller piston diameter and I have a set of calipers just sitting around.

     

    My question is a spacer required for the S12+8 vented and why?

     

    I bolted up the S12+8 vented caliper onto my current solid rotor and it fits perfectly under my 15x7 rims.

     

    What is the difference between the 84 300zx Vented rotor and the solid rotor to require a spacer?

     

    What is the vented rotor changing?

     

    If there is an alternative vented rotor that works without a spacer?

    (But I am sure if someone had found a rotor like that it would be in the FAQ)

     

    I know that the S12W Caliper is wider than the S12+8 Vented so due to wheel clearance a spacer is required...but the S12+8 non vented is only a hair smaller than the S12+8 Vented.

     

    Anyone who has chosen the S12+8 vented over the S12W and done the swap would be helpful. As I would also love to know what pads I should be running as I am having trouble finding anything decent for the S12+8 vented.

     

    Thank You

  3. I am going to upgrade to vented rotor 4x4 toyota calipers. I have a 1978 280z. When I bought the car it already had the normal solid toyota upgrade on it.

     

    I have 15x7 0 offset Enkei 92's on the car currently.

     

    I was wondering if the spacers are required for 14inch rims only? or do I need them for my 15's or if there is a way around this by shaving metal?

     

    I looked around and found what you need but not specific dimensions of everything.

     

    SO basically has anyone done the 4x4 Vented caliper conversion without the spacer on a 15inch rim?

     

    I don't like spacers...I do not feel like spending a bunch of money on 4 spacers(as they are just as expensive as a brand new set of rims)

     

    I feel like if I only got 2 spacers in the front they would oddly stick out.

     

    Just looking for some feedback from someone who has done this conversion...pictures would be most helpful as well and much appreciated.

     

    Thank You.

  4. I am in need of a 3.7 R200 and a 5 Speed out of a 280zx from 81-83.

     

    I will be rebuilding the 5 speed so don't really care about the condition as long as it shifted prior. I am only looking to drop 200$ at most.

     

    The R200 should be direct bolt up to my 280z so I believe I can only use a long nose. Again I will be rebuilding as long as the gears aren't hammered let me know about it.

     

    I live in the Bay Area and only want to do Local pickup. If you have both I would love to do a package deal.

     

    Cash on Hand!

     

    Thank You.

  5. The T5 does not weigh 70 lbs more than the NA tranny. I have both in my basement but am on the road so can't weigh them. I'd guess the difference is more around 10-20 lbs, but that's just going from memory.

     

    I've been running an 81-83 NA tranny with 4.11 and loved it when I had a NA L28 with moderate cam. But it turns 3100 rpm at 75 rpm which is a bit busy so a 3.9 might be a better choice for the street. 3.7 is probably good with the NA cam that runs out of steam by 5500 rpm.

     

    Experiment with this to see how changing transmission, diff, and redline all affect your speed in each gear.

     

    After a year of running a turbo the tranny is starting to fail so I'll be swapping to a T5 and 3.54 or 3.7.

     

    Very handy Calculator! Thank You.

  6. The stock 280z 5 speed trans has a big ratio jump between 2nd & 3rd gear.And 5th is too close to 4th.The t5 has some wierd ratios.I have a built turbo engine but i used to use my car on road course track days.I use a 83 280zx na trans.nice ratio spread and best 5th for freeway running.run this trans with a 3.7 or 3.9 rear

     

    You answered my question thank you!

    How would I go about identifying the 280zx transmission?

  7. Hi there. I am currently doing a rebuild on my 1978 Datsun 280z.

     

    I am most likely going to be putting down roughly 260HP at the high end to the fly wheel so nothing too extreme. ( But it will be more like 225HP)

     

    Here is the deal. I have the stock 5 speed and R200 that came with the car. I am dropping the transmission and will be rebuilding it no matter what.

     

    My question is since I can pick up a T5 or any kind of transmission that came on the L series for no real cost.

     

    Should I bother swapping transmissions?(Since I will be rebuilding the transmission that goes into the car regardless)

     

    What kind of modifications would I be looking at?(I assume there is a post about how to do this already I just don't know what transmission yet)

     

    Or should I just rebuild my transmission?(I feel like 3rd gear drops off but this is also with a stock setup i.e. 110HP maybe)

     

    Thank You.

  8. I am looking for an 82-83 280zx Distributor.

     

    I am also looking for a 240sx 60mm TB with an automatic TPS with the potentiometer.

     

    I would prefer in person cash on hand of course but if you have what I need shipping etc can be arranged.

     

    I live in Walnut Creek, California.

  9. Thank you You cleared a lot of things up for me.

     

    I still do not understand how to wire the entire setup?

     

    For the Injectors I have found that I need 14mm O ring type flowing at roughly 32lb. I would think Low Impedance injectors would be preferable. Any suggestions? I can only seem to find High Impedance Injectors.

  10. I am building a High compression N/A motor expecting roughly 230-250hp to the flywheel with specs as follows.

     

    1978 280z

    N42 Head Ported and Polished

    N42 Block with Flat Top Pistons

    Schneider Stage 2 Camshaft

    A Lonewolf custom manifold/stock manifold.

    MegaSquirt-II Engine Management System w/PCB3

    MSD 6a 6200

    PS40 Coil

    83 280zx Distributor

    Built in Map sensor

    240sx 60mm Throttle Body and TPS sensor

    Lonewolf Fuel Rail with 14mm O ring seats

    LC-1 Wideband O2 sensor

    CLT

    IAT

    Injectors 32lb???

     

    My goal is to drive the spark and manage fuel systems with the MS.

    I am literally lost amongst all the information some straight forward answers would really help me out as most of the articles are for turbo applications. I am very new to wiring and most of this confuses me.

     

    1.Do I have everything I need regarding the MS setup?? I just need (ECU, 02,TPS,Map,CLT,IAT,Harness,MSD)

    This is an article I found regarding the MSD wiring. Can I use it with the wiring diagram from the MS guide on this website?

    Does the MSD ignition replace the GM HEI 4 pin in the 2nd diagram?

     

    http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/msd6a.htm

    http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=23244

     

    2.Has anyone used the Lonewolf manifold with a Megasquirt setup? i.e. putting all the sensors in it etc. If it is easier with the stock manifold I might go that route. (I will probably call Lonewolf since it is there product.)

    The only sensor I need in the manifold is the IAT and a Vacuum line for the built in Map correct?

     

    3.Can all of the stock gauges be used?

     

    4.Can or should the stock CLT be used?

     

    5.I was looking for 32lb injectors I was told that the Ford Thunder Bird Super Coupe would have them but I guess they have 28lb and 36lb I am just lost.

    I am basically asking what Injectors should I use with a 14mm O ring nothing fancy or over the top?\

     

    6.How does valve clearance do with the Flat top/cam setup?

     

    7.Theoretically once it is all wired correctly I just have to create the maps?

     

    8. With the 83 Distributor the CAS is built in but is this the best option for the MS build? What other possibilities are there within a 300$ price range?

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