PMC raceengines
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Posts posted by PMC raceengines
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We do the same sort off kit with a longer stroke 89mm or 90mm billet 3.4 kit , the road kit is 89mm and cost $6000 US dollers
the race 90mm kit will set you back about 9000 with all the gear
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We only make the hi deck on the 3.6 . 3.45 does not need it the 89 and 90 stroke use a 138 mm rod so comp hight is around 25mm on the piston so we can get the ring pack in no problem . The 3.3 89 mm kit is rated at 8000 max .because its only a budget kit .the 90mm kit will spin to 9 000 you just need a head and 50mm trip carb set to get it there .
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We have a 89mm rb stroke crank for the L 28 , We also have a 90mm , and 96mm stroke billet kit for the L28 block ,
i have fitted the 89, kit in the L 24 block with 86mm bore , made great power and torque , no need to go vo7 ,just to hard ,when the stock block works fine ,we have ways of making the deck taller.
The 89mm kit comes with ever part for the bottom end , rods and pistons, bearings and custom flywheel , and ready to bolt in crank , cost $6500 + shiping also i check all sizes before its go out to make shore its a easy build
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i would try move the wipe , fit a 140 see if it moves it closer to the pivot end of the rocker
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It's more about port volume than velocity . When the valve is that small the air slows down as it can not get past the valve . And torque drops real fast as rpm is lifted . A large valve and the right port size for the engine will make more from 2000 all the way to 6500
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The things we think we know .. after years of porting , thinking all the air was in the top off the port ... Then we got 3d port air speed chekers and find all the air is not any place near the top , then we find we need to shroud the valve after the short tern in the chamber ,mmm the things we think we know lol . I think you all will be shocked what our new race port looks like with the port floor being flat and wide and lower than ever seen and the valve in a new spot.in the chamber . Lots to learn out there new tools helping old motors go fast
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I think your spot on with your thoughts Xnke boost will drop , and the engine will make more power with the port job and port size ,
it has every time i have done this , ... one thing most forget with supercharged engines is the exhaust , make shore its at least 3in and free flowing , keep up the good work
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BTW Xnke the ports are looking good , you could take more from the cheeks off the short turn , this will help in the top end from 300 to 500 lift , and wont hurt the bottom to much ,
keep up the good work should be a top engine
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If you port to engine size and rpm you need to make the hp , a L 28 with a 88.5 mm bore that makes max power at 7500 it needs a 39mm port with 225cfm @500 will make 310hp with all the right gear on it ,
On my 3.3 + motors we did a test with port size , from stock all the way to a welded 41mm port , flow did not change much and it was all about x section and port volume , what we found was the engine just keeped making power in the top and torque moved up with it .
TORQUE was at its best at 5500 with a 40.5 mm port , cam was the same 310d 550 lift , 260 @ 50 .
this was on a 3.35 engine
same test on L28 with 89mm bore same spec engine same cam and carbs
Torque was best with 39mm port and was at the same 5500 rpm ,
so you need to port to engine size , and yes it has to be the right size for what you are doing , if you want power at 3500 you need a cam and head that work there and you need a primery pipe lenth that work there as well ,
AS for big ports being slow thats crap,,, there is only bad ports , if you port it right the L head is more than up for it at any size it will go , mach your port to the engine you are building , ....
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All the cams you could want are hear in aus , and there is 4 full time Datsun engine shops you can deal with to make shore you get the right cam , in fact if you send me the head i will flow it and give you a cam, that will do want you want . and will set it up so you can just bolt it on .
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I made this one about 7 years ago , and fitted the injectors in so they would fit lol and it idled like a stock engine , engine made 400kw and drove nice , and was easy to tune , some times you just need to build them and see how it works , all the theory people said it wont work and it wont be good and will not idle , bla bla bla , give it a go and see how it goes .
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HAHA i had that happen only 2 days ago on the dyno , your lucky when they just stop , hard to pick if they just move slow a few deg at a time , lol pin your shafts boys ,
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That's why I said Jim bery makes a clutch for rally and it sits on a stock flywheel . And he won't have any truble holding the HP .. I know my stuffs out off his price range
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As long as its not historic , you can run a twincam ,2 L sports sedan improve prod there is heeps out there . Also if you ask around the rally guys you will get a clutch maker that will do the job
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It has a custom crank with 3pins and 8 bolts . Motor makes power to 10000 rpm , its a LKA
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Yes there is a nice spot to fit the picup behind the starter all very neat , and yes the timing is so stable , it the best way i have tested so far
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Most flywheels are around 500 to 600 and can be made to any clutch , but we dont try sell them, we like to fit them to my builds .
We build a new one now with the timing pickup in them, there a real nice thing , but SW in nsw and jim also sell them and there made very well
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We make 6 difrent flywheels for datsun L motors from 5.5 in twin plate to 7in tripple plate setups and 2 single setups
Then theres SW motor sport he will make you any part you can dream up , he also makes gearboxs up for the L race motor he is in NSW
Then there is jim bery in your state be can make a clutch that uses your stock flywheel , he makes a works style cluch for rally cars
i have run them in 235hp L20 rally engines and had no problems , he builds great clutchs ,
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I just dont know why you would want to , there is 4 brands off L flywheels hear with any size clutch you want , and there the same price as a RB one , just use the right part and you dont need to mod any part , or play with throw of the clutch ,
makes no sence to me sorry ,
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Just because you can bolt it on dont make it right , yes people do it , but its not the right way to do it , if you check the ring gear and starter you will find it damaged after a short time , and then you need a difrent thrust , just do it right there is heaps off clutches out there that will live in your L20
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I build cranks and flywheels for both , you can trust me on this one , fit a good clutch on the right flywheel and you wont have to do it again for a long time
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The flywheel is now 6mm away from the stock position , the rb crank is shorter than the a L motor crank by 6mm so the off set in the flywheel is made to sit 6mm away to make up for it , why not run a stock flywheel , saves heeps off problems
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There is 6mm offset .your starter will not engage propely
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Wade cams in aus have made NA cams for me many times, the turbo cams your looking at just are to mild in NA form ,
I started with 74deg cams and have moved up to 77deg on my NA twincam .
the first cams were 296deg , now im 304 and 314 , with 13.5mm lift ,
Star Road Fairlady 360hp L28 :O
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Nice car , i was having a chat with the bloke on facebook last week about the engine , 3.2 L 330HP ,he said he has never said it was 360 hp , and he is only guessing , its never been on a engine dyno ,like most jap engines they run them up and they have a guess, about engine PS . We sent one over it was 350hp hear at the engine they said it was 400 at the wheels , i dont know how that works .
best you dont beleve all that is said , and in car books