z-ya

The oil in my turbo car runs somewhere between 250F and 280F on the track (depending on ambient temp). I also have an external oil cooler but with -8AN hose. I run 20W50 synthetic to be safe. Done many track days with this car and the motor (stock internals) still runs strong. Pete

If there is still rust sediment in the block, it will end up in the coolant again.

What are you using the measure the voltage? A multimeter will not work. You really need a scope to verify that there is a compatible signal. Most multimeters cannot measure voltage on a signal that is much more than 100Hz. Pete

What inline resistor? The transistor's collector should connect directly to the tach. There should be no series resistor. On the back of the tach there should be a male bullet connector. This is where the collector should connect. I'm using it with a 280Z tach, but is should be the same since all Z coils are 12V.

If L6 head gaskets are not properly installed they will seep coolant and or oil out the side of the block. If you have good compression across all cylinders (which it looks like you do for a stock L6), and as long as a significant amount of coolant and or oil are not leaking, you are probably OK for now. Just keep an eye on the coolant color (as you have been doing), and also the engine oil. Any signs of oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil (milky) means you need to replace the head gasket. If it continues to just seep a little out the side of the block you should be OK. Pete

Did you try using pin #2 on the EDIS module as cygnusx1 suggested? Check you wiring again, that circuit has been working in the race car for almost two years now. Pete

Every time I think that the problem is the EDIS module, I'm wrong. I have not seen one fail. This is how I would approach this problem (I am assuming that cam timing is OK and you have a good battery): 1) Get cylinder #1 as close to TDC as you can (TIG rod, screw driver, whatever) 2) If the timing tab doesn't align with a mark on the damper, make a mark on the damper that aligns with the timing tab (I use leftover silver touch-up paint that shows up nicely with a timing light) . 3) Disconnect power from fuel pump or remove the injector plugs. 4) Disconnect SAW signal from MS and crank engine. It should show close to 10 Deg advance. If it is close to 10, then you are OK for now. If it is way off, the VR sensor location is wrong and should be corrected. 5) If the timing is off less than +-5 Deg, then you can calibrate it using the trim angle settings in MS once you have the advance working. 6) Connect the SAW signal and now you should see the crank timing with the light (+- whatever offset you saw in step 4). If you don't see the timing change, the advance is not working. If the timing did change from step 4 then adjust the trim angle in MS so that the timing you see with the light matches the crank timing setting in MS. 7) Now that your timing is calibrated, reconnect the fuel pump and or injector connectors and start tuning! If you can't get the advance working there are plenty of threads here that can help you. Pete

If you don't mind me asking, what did they run ya? Thanks,

Holy shiitake mushrooms. VERY, VERY nice!

Get a timing light and verify your timing before you do anything else. Yes, you can use a timing light with wasted spark. If you don't calibrate your ignition system you are setting yourself up for a major meltdown when you start pushing it with boost. Without doing this calibration step you have no idea if the timing in the timing table matches the actual timing. Fix your timing tab/damper while your at it. Doing is right now will save you a lot of headaches later on. Pete

Looking good Chris.

Timing: - Have you verified that the timing tab aligns with the mark on the pulley when #1 is t TDC? - Have you verified your crank timing with a timing light (does it match your crank timing setting in MS)? - Can you change the timing in your timing table and see it change at the crank with a timing light? Do these checks with the fuel pump fuse removed or the injector plugs pulled.

Hi Ron, I have not personally used any EBC pads. My only feedback is a bad track experience a friend had with them. For the street they might be just fine. One of the best street pads I've used (got them on my truck and 350Z), are the Stillen Metal Matrix pads. Consistent friction at all temperatures. Low dust, and easy on rotors. Unfortunately they are not available for the S30 calipers. The Hawk HPS is a good performance street pad.

Another thing to keep in mind is that you pedal travel will increase with rear disk. So the pedal will travel further before getting firm. You will loose some of that firm pedal feel. Any DOT fluid is fine for autocross. I use DOT4 non-synthetic fluid in all of my Zs. Pete

What are you running up front, and what are you using for a proportioning valve? As soon as you swap different brakes in the rear your F/R brake balance may be off. What calipers are you using in the front? I would start with the same compound in the rear as the front. See how the F/R balance is and make adjustments in pad and or proportioning valves as needed until you get the balance you want. For autocross street pads are fine. In fact, the stock brakes are more than adequate for autocross. Personally I would spend your money on high quality pads/shoes and fluid and save yourself a lot of hassle with a rear disc conversion. I run drums in the rear of my road racer with Porterfield R4 shoes and they work great. Pete

Wow, super nice work. I'm in the process of a home paint job too. The card was soda blasted, and I primed it a few weeks ago. Been working hard on the body work. If mine comes out anywhere near as good as yours I'll be stoked! Pete

Please disregard my use of the word "best" in all of my posts above. What I really meant to say is "preferred". Extremely well-spoken (as usual) Paul.

Cometic does not make an L6 gasket. As Phil said, get the ZX turbo OEM gasket. It is the best gasket you can buy for the L6. I've had one on my turbo motor for at least 8 years running 12-15psi. Lots of track days too. No problems. The key is no detonation. The nice part about an OEM style gasket is that it will blow if your engine detonates badley. An aftermarket metal one like Cometic or HKS will not blow, so some thing else most likely will (piston, rod, etc.). For any turbo build running 15psi or less the OEM gask IS the best choice period. If they are good enough for an SCCA GT2 motor running 15:1CR, they are good enough for any street turbo motor.

I did my first track day with the turbo car (usually run the NA track-only car) in a while yesterday. Pushed the car hard all day. NO issues with the OBX unit in my 3.54:1 R200. The turbo ar makes 300+hp and 320+ft-lbs at the wheels. Pete

Nissan OEM

Aaron, Why not just use stock bumpers to make a mold from. Mold release wax will prevent them from sticking to the resin. Here is a thread I started when I was making some molds from BSR parts: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132218&highlight=makin%27+molds

Usually you can't hear the injectors, except on hydraulic heads (no valvetrain noise). I would try pulling the injector connectors one at a time while the engine is running to see if one injector is louder than the rest (or that they all sound about the same).

OK, this is the early inductive type. So before getting a new tacho, I would put this on back in the car and then power the RB ignition system from the same wire that provided power to the stock coil. It should be a 14 or 12 gauge black wire with a white stripe. This should be the wire that is providing power to all of the RB coils. The tacho should work. If this doesn't work then you can get the later 280Z (not ZX) tach and swap its guts into the 260Z housing. Then it should bolt in, and the tacho wire from RB harness should drive the 280Z tacho directly. Pete

What year is your 260Z? It may already have the 280Z style tacho that will accept a voltage signal from the RB ECU. You can also use the inductive (current sensing) style tacho if you power the RB coils from the same wire that provided power to the stock coil. This is what I am doing with my RB swap. Pete

Nice job mounting them. Do you think the LS1 coils are better than the Nissan COP coils? I'm putting an RB25DE NEO engine in a 71'. Pete