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Blakt Out

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Posts posted by Blakt Out

  1. Very nice!!!!


    Trust me, I know how people pick the craziest things out of pics to comment on, but why not take off the door catches? We cadmium coated mine and they really were always a point of comment/example of the car being "so clean". Maybe you aren't to that point, which I'm sure's the case. But since you're so darn close to them... the doors on mine stayed shut anyway (in the shop, that is).


    Again, SO NICE! Great skills, man.

  2. Ha! Thanks Clutchdust.


    Texis: I don't actually recall, but I got the whole set from CCW. Thing is, as one will find when reading the article, we did a TON of measuring and suspension tuning (has the full AZC kit) to get those wheels & tires under there. I was told by CCW that I would be doing anyone a disservice by giving them the info (which again, I truly don't have anyway) because they won't fit in with a stock suspension or without my settings. Sorry that I can't be of more service.

  3. Thanks fellas. I think the quality of that build was spot on, if not overdone for my tastes. I'm not into show cars, really. But the car also had too much power, especially for a turbo car. Just my opinion. ModernS30, yes I did. Your numbers are correct. I love Z cars. I've had 14. Picking up #15 this week too. Also love other cars, especially the modern Porsche 911s. I appreciate that thought. Just did all I knew to do to honor the 240Z.

  4. Great first run, Robb! I love the sound of the triples.


    Coming from someone with maybe 300-400 track days, I'd say you did very well! Just remember, a turn is ALWAYS a fail if you don't get that apex! Fun stuff. It's like golf, there's no such thing as a perfect round! (Well, unless you're Leh Keen or Tiger Woods). I can't wait to get my project done (that I haven't even bought yet) and get out to the track! You're in Rocklin. I'm actually picking up the next project in Sacramento this week sometime. Would love to see yours while I'm in town! I live in Redding.


    Peace out, and very good work behind the wheel! Keep it up!

  5. Wow. OK. Good advice (sounds like it). I was imagining we were talking about 8k with an L24, maybe 6800 with an L28, and 6300 with a 3.1-3.3L. Bad assumption? If it's really a few hundred rpm, I totally agree and need to change my searching (and find a block).

  6. Guys:


    I'm actually about to start building another 240Z, and I'm reading around now doing research on here. I think I'm going to go with a streetable, ITB L24 with 215-230WHP as a goal. Like the OP, I very much appreciate that higher rev range. I think that many of you might be missing the point of the higher revs... at least MY point with it.


    I have been blessed with the job of test driving Porsches and writing about them (Excellence Magazine - World's Largest Porsche Mag). Testing numerous different 911s in solid 3 day sessions on rural roads (attacking the roads cannot be overstated), I've come to appreciate the higher revving cars (ala 2011 GT3-RS) because you can stay in 2nd gear (still on throttle) into the braking zone of the next tight turn instead of having to grab 3rd for a blip of the throttle before braking and downshifting. When figuring in shifting and such, the car that can stay on the power longer and without having to shift is faster. So this is what I'm researching. Yes, I'm reading all that I can on here, but since my desires seem to be on point with that of the OP, please feel free to tell me what you'd suggest as far as heads, CR, cam, etc.




    Jared Cullop


  7. Alan:


    As for the control arm bolt/tapping issue (the red arrow in post #23), I just talked with Dave @ Arizona Z Car after emailing him a pic and he said that it is supposed to be the way that mine is, other than that mine should have no grease whatsoever. So I'll be taking that out, cleaning them up, and putting it back together while I'm in there. It's not the source of my issue, but I need to get that corrected.

  8. By the way, guys, I can't find ANY pics of the axle shortening flip-thing. I really appreciate the photobucket link that you provided J. Soileau. I'll be sure to use that when I'm doing the install. But, has anyone got something like this to show how to shorten the axles as needed for the setup that I have (that others have too)? You guys are awesome, by the way. I hope to contribute to the rest of you whenever I can.

  9. I very much appreciate it guys. I've been waiting to hear about that. Deja, I totally HATE to negotiate on something of that cost, but your price will be within $1 of the price shipped from Summit, and if there's something wrong, I can send it back to them. Can you do better? Honestly, for the buck, I'd have to get it from Summit. I hope you understand. Sounds stupid.


    If you want to take this off-forum (either way is fine with me) you can email me at jared@jaredcullop.com.

  10. Well, with the car on a two-ramp lift and in gear (so the suspension is commpressed as on the road), I can rock the car back and forth and listening closely, it seems like the clunk/sound is coming from the CV. It's more inward than the hub, and more outward than the diff. Also, with the wheel hanging (no weight on it) when I do the same exercise, the clunk isn't apparent. This makes me think that the CV is binding when the suspension is compressed. Maybe it's too long. Maybe the end wasn't flipped over. Dunno.



    So, here's my plan of attack. Let me know if it makes sense.


    1. Put the RT Mount and GM Mount in. Even if it's not the cause of my issue, it'll be nice.
    2. Take the CV out and see if I can twist it and feel slop. If so, I'll have it rebuilt or look into stronger CVs (350ft/lbs should be ok though, right?)
    3. If the CV is ok and hasn't been damaged from the binding, then see about shortening it.
    4. Be sure to check all connections with the stub axles and adaptors.


    Do I have it all, you think? Seems that all these steps need to be done, and if it's still clunking, then I proceed to keep looking.


    I ordered the RT mount yesterday from RoostMonkey. The part numbers that I've found on the forums for the GM mount aren't accepted at Summit or Jegs. I think this is it though. Can someone confirm or deny? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-3-1108G/

  11. If I remember correctly, those control arms are designed with a set screw as ezzzzzzz suggested. Make sure they are there and tight. I'm betting on crappy CV's. Check out Wolf Creek Racing's set up.




    Just talked with Wolf Creek. Great guy and was very helpful, but his kit will only work for diffs that have the U-Joint flange. My diff didn't come in a car that came with CV shafts. Oh well. We'll keep tryin!

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