New-to-240z

John C, you serious? You know the place? I've only found one other person who has dealt with them, and reported their problems. I'm going on google and yahoo anmd yelp to make sure that people know they are not what they claim to be. What's crazy is they have 100K cars in their garage having work done and yet they do this kind of work. Blows my mind!!

Well guys, its been a long trip and the end is finally here. I just received my last payment for the judgement in my favor in the case I took these guys to court for. I didn't want to chance screwing up anything until everything was said and done. I just talked with my lawyer and since no confidentiality agreement was part of the judgement I can share with you the company that did this horrible work. Shutuko Engineering Inc. 18305 Bedford Cir, La Puente, CA 91744 So, it was a long journey and my car is finally up and running again after having Adrian (Vildini Motorsports)fix everything. Hopefully I save at least one person the pain I went through. Thanks everyone for your help and encouraging words. This community rocks!

sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but I had a quick question . . . When adding the 'plate' to the aerodam, would it make a big difference having the plate attached to the top part of that lip . . . Or should it be under that space? I want to make sure that the airdam doesn't flex at all and was thinking that it would be better to place the aluminum UNDER that lip instead of on-top of the lip. It may not look as clean but it would at least brace the airdam more (I would think). I'm guessing that this doesn't see a large amount of force so it really wouldn't make a difference . . . but I was just checking to see what the thoughts are on this.

Just an update as I've been busy with family . . Worked with a friend that was able to help me with setting up my suspension system. . . Front : Swift 6Kg with 45lb helper springs Rear : Swift 5Kg with 45lb helper springs Sway bar is set to a softer setting. Also corner balanced the car with an outcome of 50.20% distribution. Cross weight of 1265 lbs with 1/4 tank of gas and me in driver seat. I have to get everything actually aligned now, but I feel pretty damn good about how the ride feels compared to the 8KG/6KG megans.

Well guys. Just wanted to update everyone. Once the grinding was done and everything tightened down I got to take her out for a test drive. Everything looks to move freely and I have no wobble in the brakes at all. (I didn't push the car as I still need to do a few more things before i feel safe taking it up to 60 mph). I let Joe know that he should probably thin the spacers to 17.09 as that is what others have stated and what would have saved me from grinding down the calipers where i did. (Hopefully he does this to save this from happening in the future) The brake pedal pressure is VERY firm and to be honest I can see why some people would go with the bigger booster with the 1" MC. Once I bead in the brakes and get the car aligned I'll take it out for some spirited driving and see exactly how good everything works. Just wanted to say thank you for all your help here with this issue.

@NewZed : I'm going to do a few more things first to make sure everything is correct before giving the finals to Joe. But, it seems everything is going to be ok. I'm just grinding down a bit more for safety sake and then re-fitting after making sure that nothing has any kind of uneven surface. The lip on the spacer really does seat the rotor perfectly and seems like it should be a better option then no lip at all. If you look on the first page you can see that the spacer is actually 17.26 mm wide which may account for the reason of the grinding. I'm going to let him know so that he can make the change on his side as well. (hopefully he'll even throw me a new set)

@Miles : So, the bearings and races were replaced about a year ago, and when I took everything apart to put on the new spacers I took out all the grease and inspected everything. No marrs or marks on the races and the bearings looked in great shape. I tightened down the hub to the spindle per the FSM (tighten to soo much, then back off a 1/6 turn (i think that was it). But I also tested the amount of force needed to pull spin the hub/rotor combo with a fish scale (not the BEST method, but better then guessing) and it checked out. I'm worried about the grinding under cornering too, after thinking about it, I don't see a way for the rotor or caliper to bend one way or the other after everything is bolted up tight (as long as the bearings are good). Do you think that this could become a problem? I'm going to go home again and re-install everything and see what happens at that point. I was just wondering everyone's thoughts on the grinding. I wouldn't think it would cause a problem once everything is setup correctly, but I may be wrong in that assumption.

@Miles : Any thoughts?

Here you can see the clearance of the rotor to the caliper sides. This was after making the necessary grinding. Everything fits without problem now, and the grinding really was minimal. Nothing is ever 100% perfect on these old cars. So, what do you think? Any issues? @Six_Shooter : That was my thought too. The piston on the side that may have to travel a tiny bit more will just have to extend out further on the first brake push. But after that, it shouldn't have any problem and should be equal pressure on both sizes.

I'll take a picture when I get home. Sorry, I'm at work at the moment. Sorry about the confusion, should have just taken some pictures (And Yes, my caliper and rotor look just like the picture)

These aren't my calipers, but they will do Basically, where the rotors slot into the caliper body, one side of the slot touches the rotor. I just ground down a small amount of material off the caliper slot face. the rotor spins freely now but it sits closer to the face that I ground down then the other side of the slot.

So, got the plate on after some fussing and bolted everything up. I have read that there are some installations that require a little bit or grinding here or a small spacer there and wanted to check with you guys. After putting the hub/rotor assembled back on the car and bolting the calipers up I have clearance issues with the rotors and the calipers. Once the calipers were bolted onto the hub the slit that the rotor fits in to touches the rotor face on one side and only the top. I did a little grinding on the caliper slit (on the top inner side of the slit) and the rotor moves freely now. My question is, will this be a problem in the future? My thinking is that as long as the rotors clear the calipers and don't touch once everything is bolted down (as is the case now that I have made the corrections with a grinder on the calipers) that it should be fine. But, I want to make sure that this is the case. Since the rotors sit EVER SO SLIGHTLY (maybe 1mm) closer to one side of the caliper there will be a small difference in the distance the pistons are extended on one side of the caliper. My thoughts are that this should be ok since the distance is soo small, but I wanted to check with the board to get their thoughts. Sorry for the long winded explanation.

@Six_Shooter : Nice idea! I like the bracket you made, but I think you are correct in the cost factor. I love the different ideas here that people go with. @Miles : I re-read my reply and it might have come off odd, but I truly do appreciate your help and information provided. You've been a great resource throughout this site and very knowledgeable in all matters Z.

@Miles : Thank you for all the info and concern (that is why I post here and trust people's opinions.) I have already . . - switched to S13 240sx Rear brakes - Upgraded to 1" Wilwood brake MC (Removed internal residual pressure valves in MC since all brakes are disc now) - Installed Wilwood proportioning valve for rear brakes - Upgraded front and rear pads respectively Thank you for the Grade 8 recommendation for the bolts. I'll take one of the bolts to my local parts place and have them match the pitch and so forth to the stock bolts. As for the spacer, I am waiting to receive the new spacer from Joe. If this does not work, then both will be returned and I will just purchase the spacer from Silverline Motors (as it is a simple spacer itself without the 'steps' that MM's spacer has).

The caliper ears fit behind the hub's caliper mounting points, so I don't think that is possible. The idea of the spacer is to push the rotor back,which means that it would sit farther forward without the spacer and the calipers would need to be moved from behind the hub mounting points to in-front of them(and possible have spacers to move them even further forward if needed). I don't know if this would work... Then again, I'm not looking at anything right now. Just kinda typing while thinking. On a side note, does anyone know where I can get new bolts to use? I'm guessing the stock bolts won't be long enough anymore with the spacer. @Miles : Did you reuse your stock bolts for mounting the rotor to the hub with the spacer?