MyLaDyZ

that is true my friends eg hatch pulls on corvettes on the freeway, ill see and looking around for a l28 block

L28et will pull on a sr20? that sounds good but now i have to find a l28, i was thinking the other day about rebuilding my l24 boring it out and you kno forge rod, pistons, get a good head.

Hi, everyone i just wanted to run this through all of you before i started cutting for my sub frame connectors and maybe front frame rails also. ***I've been on the forums for days and hours doing research on thickness and size, and other frame rail design done by others**** I'm going to try to be as detail as possible for my goals for this car i hope i don't miss anything. 73 240z -stock l24 for the moment until i can afford a swap either 2jz or sr20 -Daily driver/ weekend cruiser/ and some racing here and there just for fun (i want to keep up with the new gen. cars s2k,evo,sti,m3 etc.) - front and rear strut brace -I have a r200 from a q45 but not installed yet new cv and axles anyone selling any? -summit fuel cell -16 sportmax 002 gold Heres what i want to run through with everyone before cutting starts. -wall thickness and size i already have some 2x3 .120 laying around, but i read that is way over kill for the sub frame connectors. So im thinking 2x3 .082? or 1x3 .083? Also i be putting them between the floor plan, meaning not above or below the floor right in the middle. One question i have is my front frame rails are in good shape, if i do put on the sub frame connectors will i have to put in new front frame rails also? Because if for some reason i do decide to go a little crazy with the motor that would be the weak point of the car correct and the twisting will happen there? Also and for those who have gone through with this, i would appreciate if you would shine some light on me on some thing to look out for or just some tips you learn during your project. Thank you ahead of time Le

Thanks that was the link I was looking for

Im trying to find where i could get new connectors like the stock 240z came with. I came up on a thread that someone posted the link to but i for got to write it down.

I'm not really interested in the l28, i know all these question have been ask wat is better, this and that , I've read lots of these fourms, I just wanted to see wat requirements were needed for a single t swap . Thank you for all your inputs it did make me rethink some routes I was going to take

Thanks for you input ill keep everything in mind, sr is the way im leaning towards, but the power of the 2j is to tempting. I'm not trying to build a all out race car i just want a Daily Driver that has some good power so i can keep up with the newer gen cars evo, sti, s2, mustangs, m3 etc.

got y'all i understand the minor upgrades i was thinking like you'll need standalone

Well yeah i never like to half ass anything, you know if you going to do something you have to do it all the way, go hard or go home! but no i have welding experience and i did my friends RHD integra im still thinking about it, either i do the convserion and spend money im saving for a swap or just wait until i have enough for a sr or 2j

No im just wondering i haven't really seen one. and also i can get a rhd front clip for 300

has any one ever attempt to do a right hand drive conversion on a 240 260 280? i've searched and googled it but nothing comes up Has it been done?

thank you

Im still debating on a sr or 2j. but everyone that has the 2j swap are running a big single turbo, I just wanted to know is, when switching to this single turbo set up what changes to the ecu are needed for the conversion?

I have to wait my carb is leaking fuel everywhere so im waiting for my rebuild kit after the carb rebuild ill start finding out the problem agian my fuel pump is leaking also i guess this is wat i get for buying cheap summit fuel pump

you i have fuel and air and yes i already hook Bat+ to the coil i think im missing a ground for the dizzy is that a poissbilty

1973 240 stock l24 with a AZC mainfold with a holley 4 brrl, i got like a painless wireing kit but a cheaper one from speedway, im missing the resisstor so i guess ill have to go buy one i was just wondering if i could run it with out the resistor but i did some research about the 280zx dizzy swap looks like something i might want to look into

i got some black ones from summit racing, their gorilla tuner lug nuts heres the part number GOR-21133BC

Well i rewired my whole car and i tried to start it it cranks and theres fuel. But there is no spark theres power on both side of the coil and spark wire when i hold it to a ground when im cranking it. I was looking at the wiring diagram im miss the resistor and transitor are these 2 required.

i just needed a list i got my kit from MSA but they post the part numbers on their page now. How did it go putting on the new seals, is it some what difficult? I thing they gave me 2 driver side door seals will that be a problem

ABout to put on my air dam and i've read around that bracing it would be a good idea cause of the flexing when speeds increase. I just wanted to get some ideas on what bracing method i should use. Will be thankful for any ideas

i interested too

Stock L24 but after my restore ill be swaping a sr20det or a VQ

It was actually my friends idea to add the runs Oh yeah and the PIC IS FROM SEMA LAS VEGAS!!!!!!!!!!!!

Well finally about to get some real stuff done, ordered a bunch of stuff: Summit Racing: Fuel cell, battery relocate kit, air filter. MAD electrical stuff should be here on monday. You guys can see how much stuff i have that needs to be put on. Finally took pics of my 002's gold 16x8 Also i've been looking for a welder for a while, i was walking around home depot today looking through the rental section and saw a little welder for rent it will be good enough to build a frame for the fuel cell. About $36.00 a day I also installed some shop lights in my garage so i could start working on my z Heres the game plane: Finish wiring, start the engine, sand down the car, and paint. etc. fatmat interior I started putting new connecters for the side markers but the head light connectors and signal connecters are really old and beat up what did you guys do about this. I was thinking taking the connections apart and cleaning them or is there aftermarket connectors