Datz350
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Posts posted by Datz350
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I have a 71 240z w/ sbc 305 & th350 trans. I want to swap a 350 and have a little over $2k to work with. What would you do??
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Lol, I wish I could take all the credit, but I went to a machine shop. I hope the tubes are smaller than the rears or I'm gonna have the car on jacks for another week... You know, procrastination and all, lol.
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Well, after much procrastination, I finally got the spacers cut and the shocks mounted.
Now for the front shocks. I haven't taken anything apart yet, but will I need spacers in the front as well?
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Lol, I have come to terms with the fact that I'm going to have to cut the spacers. I was trying to upload pictures that I took, but the new layout doesn't seem to have an option for that. Sorry, guys. Once again, thank you for the input.
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I appreciate all of your input guys. I'm just going to cut those spacers they sent me. I'll try to put some pictures up tomorrow. I'm posting off my phone and it takes time. Thanks again, friends.
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Yes, actually. I pressed the spacer into the 2mm groove you are speaking of. The shock sticks out of the tube with the spacer pressed in firmly. I don't understand how the description of my problem is vague. Shouldn't all 240z's have the same suspension set-up? The shock slides into the strut tube. Then you close it off with the gland nut. Compress the spring and secure the top hat with the provided bolt on top.
Now my problem; The gland nut will not close if I slide the shock in WITH the spacer. Without the spacer the shock slides in all the way, and although the gland nut now closes, I have too much play on the shock. From my understanding, the top of the shock should be almost flush to the tube so the gland nut would screw in and hold the shock in place.... Phew, am I missing something? I know I'm ignorant, but I know I'm not stupid.
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I'm going to say the gland nut is the one that seals the shock to the tube, right. I had to hit it with a flat head screwdriver to screw it off. Yeah, the shock sticks out too much to put that nut back on.
I guess I'll be measuring the spacers to get them cut. I'm just bummed the shock couldn't be exact size to fill in the tube. Hopefully these shocks are worth the hassle.. Thanks for the input friends.
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Lololol!!! Snuggies...
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Ok, shock is sticking out of the strut tube. Thats what I mean. But, only with the spacers they sent me. The shock falls into the strut tube without the spacer. These spacers they sent me, (2) for the rear I suppose, are metal. Lol, I don't have anything that would cut that material. This is my first time changing out this kind of suspension. I'm used to hondas, so I apologize for my "newb-ness".
The part number I see on the shock is TOHZ3016
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Just a thought; Would it matter if the strut is sticking out of the tube?
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There is nothing in the tube. The strut that was in there fits flush with the tube. The tokico strut is physically shorter than the strut I pulled out. Why would tokico make the strut shorter? I don't get it.
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#tohz3016
It has the metal spacers, but are not welded. With the spacers the strut sticks out too much. Am I going to have to cut these spacers?
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I took out one of the rear struts and put in the new tokico. I noticed that the tokico shock is a lot shorter than the one that was in there. The kit came with some metal tube spacers but they make the strut poke up more. Am I supposed to cut these spacers? Why are the tokico struts shorter? Anyone deal with this before? Car is a 71 240z.
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Lol!! Maybe...
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Car starts up perfectly with the choke open. Lol, I'm sure you don't want to see a open diff burnout.
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Alright, found out why my choke would close and why my idle was high. The rod thats holding the choke linkage is supposed to be bolted down. I, ignorantly, wasn't aware of that. The high idle was due to a tight throttle cable, again, I'm dumb, I know... Anyway, the car is running well now. I appreciate all your input, guys. Be well, friends.
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Thanks again, guys. Once I get it fixed I'll post what the problem was.
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" did not harp and continue on once I had RECEIVED AN ANSWER." I haven't received an answer. I was referred to a web link, which I had previously seen, which didn't help seeing it that the link only talked about automatic chokes.... And spoon feeding??? Really?? This is a automotive TECH forum. Not a online game to see who the best auto technician is. If you can't help me with my problem, then don't answer. I don't need your criticism, I need your help. Leave the criticism to the women.
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Thanks for all the "mature" answers, guys. I took emeralds advice and, with no prior experience working with carbs, went out and, well, just FIXED IT! I even did it with my eyes closed, the carb gods, like Jason said, guided my hand...
On a serious note, I'm just going to take it off and take it to a professional. Great idea!, huh?¿
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I got the car this way. It was running great before. It never had a choke cable.
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Not sure if the pic posted. Here it is again.
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This is my carb. Why isn't the rod keeping my choke open anymore? Why does the choke close after throttle input. If I put a choke cable I would be messing with it during driving because the choke would close, causing high idle. The carb didn't do this before.
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Via a cable.... There is no cable. What it has is a little rod. The rod has play to it, I'm not sure if thats normal. My problem isn't KNOWING what is wrong with the carb, it's finding out how to fix it. This is my first time messing with this kind of set-up. How does a manual choke work if there is no "choke cable". Trust me I have been looking around for info, but nothing that can solve my problem.
Wheel Show! Post your pics of you wheels
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Rpf1 +43 offset