buzznhalf

And to top it all when I was taking the valves out. The inner valve spring on CYL. 3 Intake valve was broken. Every single valve seal was trashed also. It looks as if the spring retainers were hitting the valve seals because of the impression on the top of the valve seal which conerns me on the clearance end.

Yea one cam is actually almost round. Their is almost no lob at all. Here are those pictures

yea, The cam fucked it all. IDK The valve spring retains look a little scuffed as you can see from the pictures whoever installed them didnt have the right tools mainly a spring compresser. We decided to rebuild the engine and use the turbo kit since it is a old school peice. Jerrys idea he is the owner of the car. When I did a cyl leakdown test I was only loosing about 5% through all 4 so the engine sealing wise was in great shape. Bad valve seals though. Pretty much stock bore the cyl. walls are in great shape, taper is well within acceptible limits. Already check the block for cracks and the block deck for flatness. Everything is comming out good. So pretty much just a straight rebuild, hot tank, hone, new bearings, seals, pistons, rods, rings, all new gaskets, Im going to redress the valve seats, and find a new cam. So the next thing I have been trying to figure out is what cam to use with the E88 head. I know KA CA and SR first time really getting hands on with a Datsun. So if anybody has any ideas of what turbo cam would be decent for the E88 head then shoot some at me. Any ideas would be great We are keeping the stock compression, stock valve size, not going to bother with going oversized valves, I will be port and polishing the head, and the block and head are within spec for flatness so I dont have to do any milling. L42 Block stock pistons, E88 Head stock valves, with upgraded springs retainers and one crappy cam.

Worn out cam and damnaged retainers. I did a cyl. leakdown test across the board and their was about a 5% leak over all the cyl. I heard air passing through the intake and exhaust ports so prolly just carbon build up on the seats. W

Here are those pictures. Turbonetics Delta Mark II Waste Gate. E88 Head N42 Block and CWC Cam Took off the intake and exhaust man, and bad valve seals so far

it was helpfull as thats where i identified the e88 head. today is for identifying parts so we know what were working with. turbo kit is odd as it has a rajay turbo unit with draw thru holley 4bbl and the intake says Turbo Z really big, its aluminum and the inlet faces down to the turbo. has cast exhaust mani. we want to get it to run like it should with the turbo, were sure the followers and cam need replaced but some cam metal has probably made its way somewhere as alot is missing to the point of some missing lobes. even with engine problems it was worth what he paid.

guy i met today thru my dude adam ( dudes first import, were the mechanics) just bought a 1976 280z turbo. this turbo set up looks dead on factory but since there was no L28et in 76..... he bought it in great shape for alot less than i think just the body was worth. kid said he just put a new mani on and that it has a new valvecover gasket. well also said to have a timing and starter issues. it had timing issues alright. like listed in the thread a few down titled "cam damage" this one is so bad it has no lobe just where the followers were on all but one oddly. head looks redone with heavy duty springs and retainers, possibly manley by the looks. cam has CWC in it also... now since it obviously has been modified given it has a 5spd, turbo kit, and cam with spring kit. where do i look for codes and what codes mean what? cause i don't know if it still has a 2.8l in it because i think i seen e88 on the head.

Great point. thats what i say. i wouldn't want to spend more money i dont need too. i plan on getting it swapped before i mod it any also so it wont matter stock to stock. i get a better deal rb20.

than i should just buy an RB25 at thier prices. i seriously thought about an sr20 over a rb20/25. for thier prices though, its not worth making the same power. i think the cheapest SR20(s13) i seen was $1700 for a RWD setup. i found an rb20 for $1100. both would be around 200 for shipping or maybe more.

Well, I'm new on here. Been sitting back reading stuff. I Have a 78 Plymouth Volare that came with a 225 Slant six. I'm sure if there are any older car guys here, they remember these rust buckets. I have had this wierd ideal to make this car streetable again, but with a Crazy motor swap which would be the RB series. i know which are better but I can't afford the Rb26/25 outta pocket. max i could ever think of is 1500 for a total swap setup (complete motor and trans) unless something pops up, namely cash. I know alot of you are thinking im stupid. Yes i am,but this car has tons of room in the bay and i want it to have a good fuel efficent motor that has more than 110hp, the wow factor would be awesome, and I could do little upgrades to have more fun. I really don't want a V8 swap. I know fuel system mods are in order and some fab work, but im not an electrical wizard. what would need done to the electrical system?