c4220
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Posts posted by c4220
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40,000 miles on current tires
Original tire lasted 55000. Both sets are nearly identical dunlops, the current tires are slightly softer, tread wear 240 Sportmaxx TT as opposed to 280 SP9000
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Hope ya'll don't mind this question being about my daily driver.
It's an 06 Saturn Ion Redline FWD with 95000 miles. The extreme inside edge of the tires is wearing more quickly than the rest of the tire. At 75000 miles I noticed the tires were really noisy and I found the shocks needing replacement, at this point they had caused cupping on the extreme inside edge. Now after 20000 miles with new OEM shocks the cupping has disappeared by becoming round again. I believe this extreme inside edge is still wearing excessively fast however it may be a result of the accelerated wear from the original worn shocks. Tires are rotated every 6000 mi. The tires currently on the front are worn more severely than the rears leading me to believe the problem is the front end of the car and the accelerated wear is continuing with good shocks. Please see attached pics.
Alignment measures
LF RF
-1.25 Camber -1.0
4.0 Caster 3.5
0 toe 0
Front end is non adjustable. Yes I can get strut bolts with a cam at the knuckle or follow the FSM which says to elongate the holes in the strut slightly if needed.
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I got an entire junkyard mustang shifter (lever and the 4 bolt bottom plate that bolts to the transmission) the bottom plate has a stub with two bolt holes verticaly. I cut the stub down to one bolt high. I then got a piece of 3/4 inch thick steel (dont remember the other dimensions)milled into it 3/8 and drilled a hole through the side to bolt it on to the stub and drilled a tapped the front side for two small allen head set screws. If you do not install the set screws the act of shifting will unscrew the single bolt. This 3/4 inch piece of steel is acting as a spacer to move the lever rearward and when cut down to one bolt high the stub and spacer fits under the console and no cutting of the transmission tunnel either. I then welded the shift lever on to the spacer. Hope this helps.
Chris
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1977 280Z
Thank you
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I have had the rear of my Z jacked up, jack stands supporting the car via the frame and tires removed for a bout a week. One of the strut mount insulators has seperated allowing the strut and spring assembly to fall down while the three bolt portion is still bolted to the body strut tower. I am assuming this will be a recurring problem as along as old parts are used. Black dragon only offers the 240Z mounts. What other solutions are available?
thank you
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I am in need of a set of lash pads and I am aware of MSA ( the ones delivered were rusted and pitted) is there another place to purchase these with a thickness of 0.160?
Thanks,
Chris
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Yes the oil cap is on.
I have an open element filter on the valve cover. If I had a typical Z induction I would not have seen any oil spray because the pressure would push the oil to the intake manifold and I would see blue smoke.
I will check for a baffle in the valve cover.
The whole area inside the valve cover where the oil drains at the rear of the head to the oil pan and at the front of the head (timing chain) can drain to the oil pan is all part of the crankcase.
How else can the valve train get oiled and return the oil to the drain pan.
Oil can not get pushed up through valve stem seals.
High pressure oil from cam and valvetrain lubrication can leak into the combustion chamber and go out the tail pipe as blue smoke.
The leak down check is good advice to get an idea of wether or not I have excessive blow by which will cause high crankcase pressure.
The other responders need to learn more about how engines are built and operate.
Thanks,
Chris
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The last time that I had my Z on a track I experimented with letting the engine spend more time near 6400 RPM than typical to avoid making and up shift and immeadiatly followed by a down shift for a corner.
After the session was over (30 min, 2.4mi 15 turns per lap) I opened my hood to find oil sprayed all over the engine compartment. Since a little oil can go a long way we are ony talking about an ounce or two of oil lost.
It appears the source is the filter breather that I have on my valve cover. So it appear there was positive pressure in the crank case. I checked the PCV valve. It is free and clear.
Important modification info may inculde
megasquirt II
Turbo oil pump
14 psi hot at idle
50 psi hot 2000RPM
~80 psi hot above 3000RPM
Head was ported and hot tanked within 5000 Mi
Head drains verified clear of abstruction
Mobil 1 full syntethic 10W-30
If more info on current build is need let me know.
I have a desire to modify this build to utilize a shift point between 7000-7500 RPM
It appears this problem wil get worse with RPM so I am very interested in a cause and solution to keep all of my oil in the engine.
Thanks,
Chris
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Tony,
How did your results turn out? Did the 100 octane solve the pinging? Were you going to drill and install the additional cooling? Did that solve the pingin with 93 octane?
Just looking for an update
Thanks,
Chris
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I dont know anything about your build but I am gathering it is stock except for megasquirt. I have many modifications to a N/A L28 and while I was on the stock injectors my VE table had values of about 50 at idle ( 55 KPA and 1000 RPM), even after going to turbo injectors the VE table is nearly the same because of telling Megasquirt the size of the injectors. In a perfect world the injector swap wouldnt need any tuning. I think I get all the way down to values of 30 under high vaccume (~30 KPA).
I cant wait untill the semester is over so I can finish the MSII install.
Chris
Suspension related however not the Z
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Factory specs
-0.9 +- 0.75 camber
3.5 caster
I think toe is allowed -0.1to 0.1, away from the FSM untill tomorrow.
Can some one illustrate if under acceleration the front tires will toe in or out?
Seems like I may want to increase toe in.
Thanks for all of the reply's