theramz
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Posts posted by theramz
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I sold my L28ET. Now I have my Q45 up on stands to pull the engine trans and diff to put in my '70 240Z. I'm having trouble finding time right now but it's a start.
Dropping the Q45 out this weekend. I thought i would cut the front support but after getting everything loose I think I will roll it out in the driveway and lift the front end up and pull it out the bottom. Interestingly the rear suspension drops out as an assembly too. I do that after the E/T. I guess I'll start my own build thread lol. How you doin?
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Great find, keep us updated!
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So basically if I can get the 280z bearing to fit on the 280zxt stub axle then it will work? I could shave off .10? Or are there other problems as well
That part I got wrong. (OFS) You can't remove that much off a bearing od. The only way to fit that bearing in an S30 hub is to have the housings bored out. You would be taking out .084"
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Let me clear some things up here. The 240z stub axle bearings both measure 2.750 (2 3/4") o.d and 1.250 (1 1/4") i.d. The '79 thru '83 280zx bearings measure 72mm o.d. and 30mm i.d. The '84-'89 5 lug axles are also use 72mm x 30mm.
The 240z housings can be bored out to 72 mm and fitted with the 4 or 5 lug hubs. This leaves a thinner wall around the bearing but the outside of the housing ends could be sleeved for more strength if thought to be necessary. There aren't any metric bearings that fit the S30 axles/housings.
The cv flanges need to be shortened and machined/welded on the same hub or whatever hub/spline combo you have available. This requires a skilled machinist with a good lathe and a tig welder. The shortening is necessary on lowered cars because the cv axles are longer.
You also need the R200 diff and cv output shafts.
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The S30 bearings are "inch" dimensions and the S130 bearings are metric. You can buy the flanges from AZcar or have a machine shop cut off,turn and weld the cv flanges onto the S30 hubs. The other option is to have the axle housings bored out, it's only about .010. If you do that you can use the later 5 lug hubs.
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You will have a line show through between those two areas because the feathers are too short. I would rewipe about 6' past the two spots and join them. Just a thin final wipe and use a block about 24" long so it will straddle them. You should be using 220 grit now. Stay off the body line untill the very last. You are sanding a compound curve. The body line should be from the door and daylights out over the wheel arch and reappears to the end. Compare it to the other side. If that is rattle can primer you need to take it off or your base coat might lift. If you are going to have a pro shoot it ask them about it now. Some prefer to do the primer sealer themselves. If he says rattle can is okay then take it to someone else.
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I see you watching me. What are you doing now that you sold your motor? I'm not using my stock one.
I sold my L28ET. Now I have my Q45 up on stands to pull the engine trans and diff to put in my '70 240Z. I'm having trouble finding time right now but it's a start.
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I will get some rage gold and board sand then thank you. should I remove what is there or just wipe over it?
I would remove it because of the delayed shrinkage. Build it up in thin layers. When you sand, straddle the spot with the 24" flexible block. You can get them from ebay or Eastwood. After you get it close as you can paint it with high build primer and block the whole car the same way. You will find spots that need more work. If you don't spend the time you will have a paint job that will make you want to sell it. Patience, I spent months doing mine. I didn't have any experience but I do now and I'm not afraid to do it again. Buy the right tools!
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A line sander is too ridgid. You have created flat spots that will show through the paint. The "feathers" should be 10 times longer and also the bondo feathers into the evercoat making the flat spots. You can rewipe the area way beyond what you have and use a 24" polyurethane board sanding diagonally accross the area in an X pattern. If you paint over that you will be disappointed. Cheap fillers continue to shrink.
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So I shaved my marker lights and fuel filler door. No major deformation, but I still needed a skim coat of something so I went to the parts store and almost bought bondo but then I remembered that on another section of the car there was rust under the bondo. And concluded with no real evidence that the bondo was at fault. So I bought bondo glass because it is stronger and water proof and skim coated that with ever-coat. The question after this rambling is, is this a good foundation or did I waste time and money I would hate to have done that.
The only problem I see with that is the glass filler is harder and will resist the sanding slightly more than the Evercoat causing an uneven surface. As long as you don't sand through the Evercoat you'll be okay. If you covered over any rust then you did waste your time.
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I'm watching you! lol
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I like using ratcheting tie down straps. I loop one under the pan in front and one in the rear. Position the hook just 6" above the valve cover and adjust them for balance. As you lift you can tighten the front strap to compensate for the boom angle change. Straps are cheap and won't cause damage. Get the ones rated at at least 1000lbs. I have pulled engines weighing twice as much by myself.
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A little off topic but...
I want one of your brackets! Will you be producing anymore?
Let me know.
Thanks!
I can make more so pm me, Tom
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with this setup can you have all accesories??? i like my power steering and a/c. so far thats been what holding me back from going this route.
AC yes ps no. I made this for my S30. We have to muscle our cars around but AC is a must. A larger diameter code wheel and different adaptor hub might allow for the ps pulley. I spaced it out away from the damper to avoid any possible feedback. In fact the stock fan won't quite clear. James said he will be using electric fans.
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Hi James! Glad you are getting it going. Looking forward to your build thread!
Tom
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I just shipped an L6 I sold on ebay. I have had some bad experiences from people not securing the item properly and receiving it damaged. The heavy stuff is usually put on different trucks with forklifts. I made an angle iron frame that bolted to the engine and through a wood pallet. I then shrink wrapped it. = happy customer. Try freightquote.com they can send a truck with a lift gate. Make sure you get insurance! btw the total weight was 425 lbs.
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A large rubber mallet(like something you would have seen in Looney Tunes Acme style), and some strong legs is all we had to straighten the passenger side out in mine. I braced myself against the top of the door threshold for short bursts while my buddy welded the pans down to get them perfect. A harbor freight dolly set also comes in handy to get any small bumps out one your done.
Thanks guys, I dont really have much to offer Hybridz these days so its the least I can do until I can make a donation.
Ray
I used a short handled 2# sledge hammer with a piece 2x4. It got out the dents from a misplaced floor jack and then I hammer/dollied out the smaller dings like mentioned above.
Thanks for the post about the bad dog install!
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Is that the correct location for the missing tooth @TDC or is this mockup?
It's just a mock up. Actually I sold the engine to a guy in CA. He is putting it in a nice '73 with MS so I imagine we will be hearing from him.
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I'm glad you like it. Feel free to copy it but don't ask me for dimensions, I might make more of them since I just sold the complete engine today.
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Hi guys, here is a pic of my code wheel and vr sensor mount.
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I would not use 304 on the fan mounting, or anything requiring strength. 304 is brittle, and weaker than a class 8.8/grade 5 bolt. Stainless will not take the flexing that a class 8.8 bolt will. For this reason, it's unsuitable for applications requiring long term strength.
Either MMS is selling you class A-2 / grade 18-8 or has the specs on non-automotive classed bolts wrong.
http://www.ssina.com/view_a_file/fasteners.pdf
Actually there is a bit more to it than the above.
304 comes in 3 varieties:
304 Tensile strength: 90ksi ( 1 Ksi is 1000 psi)
304-A Tensile strength: 75ksi
304-SH Tensile strength: 125ksi
c 8.8 Tensile strength: 120ksi
c 10.9 Tensile strength: 150ksi (this is class 10.9 for reference)
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx
At best, these are weaker than the OE, as I believe the OE fan bolts are class 10.9. It's fine for most the non critical stuff, but I would not use them on the fan mount. There are stainless specification that are stronger than class 10.9, you just have to find the right ones. So don't give up if you're set on stainless. Just beware, the stronger stainless fasteners are extremely expensive.
I use a lot of stainless, and the price on this kit is excellent. I think I might buy one, but only if I can get the heads I want. I like the allen drive stainless heads, especially the pan head style, they polish up very well.
Happy wrenching.
rejracer is correct. If you use fasteners from a hardware store it's almost sure to be Chinese. Those manifold bolts pictured in the bag have serrated face nuts and lock washers. You cannot get those nuts in grade 10.9, and you never use them with lock washers. They look to be nickel plated low grade steel. As for the stainless they may be okay for holding the covers on but that's it. Have you ever seen an engine bay after the fan comes off at 6k rpm? I always use oem bolts or ARP on critical things.
Some of the larger Napa stores carry bolts for eash purpose. Another source is McMaster sales online catalog for some of the longer bolts on the timing cover. 18-8 stainless is stronger but can cost 3-5 times as much.
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Since you already know you're moving you probably don't have time. Take the car and et motor with you. Then you can do it right.jmo
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If the cam is retarded it would explain the low compression and the backfiring. The piston would be on the way up before the intake valve closes. Backfiring is from unburned fuel in the exhaust. The slow turn could also be from a weak starter/connection.
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I purchased a 95 Q45 for $1200. It is a one owner with 158k on it. BTW they all have LSD R200 diffs! There is a guy on Nico that can upgrade the ecu to get you to 340hp. I'm going to use the bell housing off the AT, machine the end off and weld on an adaptor plate to fit a T5 trans. They also offer a trans adaptor plate for the 300zx trans but I think the shifter will be to far back for the 240z. Soon I will have a dependable daily driver that will outrun anything around and have AC! BTW that guy on Nico only does '90-'93 ecu's.
E31 head mods
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Anyone have experience installing 280 valve and seats in these heads? Specifically the seats, is there any worries about machining into the water passages?